Overall I think that the price of the conversion process if going to be pretty close to the price of complete. The key is making use of used or free parts.

For me, building a bike is as fun as riding! Perhaps more.

indeed.

For those who say converting is more expensive than an entry level bike.... are you on crack?


Ok shape lugged steel frame ~$0-40 if you know where to look.
Re-use rear wheel with track cog and bb lockring $30.
New tires ~$9 each if you get them on sale.
New brake pads ~$5

convert convert convert

part of riding fixy is knowing your bike imo. and that would mean buying something already done is sort of avoiding that...

yeah and you can suck my dick. dip****.

re use rear wheel? how?

we're assuming this is a conversion from standard road bike right? 5 speed 7speed rear wheel? is there some quick conversion tip i'm missing? clue me.

Dammit you're right, I stand corrected. My conversion was more of a build, since i started with just a frame and fork, not even a bb and headset. Of course with the option to buy nice non OEM parts that can (and did) get pricy fast, but I lack discipline. sorry for saying completely wrong things on the internet.

I've done a bunch of conversions, including a Univega Supersport. It's a nice riding generic Japanese mid-level frame. If you like bike projects and the creative aspect of building your own fixed gear, go for it. Cost wise it's less expensive than new, though if you don't have tools you may need to spend $100 bucks or so on that. The most expensive bike I've done added up to 500 bucks, only because I put a carbon fork, seatpost, and nice wheels on it. Also, you're recycling instead of feeding some Chinese factory and faceless Internet business!

Perhaps? You take off the freewheel, put a cog in it's place then respace and redish the wheel for the right chainline.

Well, when I did my conversion last fall I put on longer chainring bolts and some spacers to move the inner chainring closer to the bb centerline. Then the chainline was perfect for my NR hub previously set-up for an old 5 speed (126mm) hub.
So the conversion cost were for the cog, bb lockring, locktite and longer chairing bolts and spacers; hardly the cost of an entry level FG bike.

Gerry

You can also rearrange the spacers on the axle to center the hub, then redish the wheel. Again, this means you have to have the tools and understand the workings of a wheel. It's pretty easy to do, though.

Mark

im sorry my mind is blown, is there some instructable on how to do this? im having trouble picturing in my head how it's going together. the only track bikes i've put together i've used track rear wheels if theres a cheaper safe way i have a **** ton of friend who have been begging me to help them build for cheap.
and uh, bb lockring? bb being?