eccentric hub?
07-17-03 | 10:43 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9
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From: new york, ny
eccentric hub?
I'm currently riding a surly 1x1 rear hub with the singulator. I can't quite get the tension I need 'cause when cranking uphill on the dirt it starts clicking and slipping. It's an ugly, ugly noise.
I'm riding an Ibis Mojo with a 32x16 gear ratio and I'm looking to get rid of the singulator.
I saw the new white industries eccentric hub and was wondering if anyone has one and what their experience is with it.
Or, if anyone has other ideas of what I could do to fix my tension problem, those are more than welcome.
thanks.
I'm riding an Ibis Mojo with a 32x16 gear ratio and I'm looking to get rid of the singulator.
I saw the new white industries eccentric hub and was wondering if anyone has one and what their experience is with it.
Or, if anyone has other ideas of what I could do to fix my tension problem, those are more than welcome.
thanks.
07-17-03 | 11:30 AM
#2
BFSSFG old timer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 1
From: Fredrock
The latest issue of Dirt Rag has a review on the White Industries Eno hub. They give it a thumbs up.
One option that might help the singulator is using it in the "push up" direction. You may need to use a diff. gear combo (you could still run 2:1). It looks like you've got a lot of chain, can you remove a link? Also, check this gear calculator for a combo that may work without a tensioner
https://www.peak.org/~fixin/
You could get get horizontal dropouts installed on the frame, probably run $75-100. Also, you could get an EBB installed by Vulture Cycles. I thought about doing this to my Mojo since I haven't ridden it in well over a year. If I break my Surly I'll probably go that route.
BTW, like the screen name, great book.
One option that might help the singulator is using it in the "push up" direction. You may need to use a diff. gear combo (you could still run 2:1). It looks like you've got a lot of chain, can you remove a link? Also, check this gear calculator for a combo that may work without a tensioner
https://www.peak.org/~fixin/
You could get get horizontal dropouts installed on the frame, probably run $75-100. Also, you could get an EBB installed by Vulture Cycles. I thought about doing this to my Mojo since I haven't ridden it in well over a year. If I break my Surly I'll probably go that route.
BTW, like the screen name, great book.
07-17-03 | 12:16 PM
#4
BFSSFG old timer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 1
From: Fredrock
Originally posted by captsven
If it slips under torque then your drive train has either worn chainrings/cogs or your chain is stretched or maybe all three.
If it slips under torque then your drive train has either worn chainrings/cogs or your chain is stretched or maybe all three.
07-17-03 | 01:06 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: new york, ny
Thanks for all your help. I thought the comment about frame flex was interesting- hadn't thought of that.
As for taking links out, I tried when I put it together and it falls just short of working.
I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?
As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?
thanks again.
As for taking links out, I tried when I put it together and it falls just short of working.
I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?
As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?
thanks again.
07-17-03 | 01:54 PM
#8
BFSSFG old timer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 1
From: Fredrock
Originally posted by winston smith
I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?
I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?
Originally posted by winston smith
As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?
As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?
07-18-03 | 06:55 AM
#9
Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8
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From: Salinas, Ca
Hey there. I am running the ecc hub on my gt. I love that thing. Easy to set up, easy to tension. NEVER have had to readjust it due to slippage. Did 3 runs at Downieville downhill last weekend. My spokes were loose, but hub was secure in the dropout.
07-19-03 | 07:53 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: new york, ny
thanks everybody for your feedback.
I moved the singulators spring back a bit and it cut down on the skipping dramatically. I guess I didn't have enough tension.
That eccentric hub looks NICE!
thanks for your help.
I moved the singulators spring back a bit and it cut down on the skipping dramatically. I guess I didn't have enough tension.
That eccentric hub looks NICE!
thanks for your help.
07-21-03 | 12:53 PM
#13
BFSSFG old timer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 1
From: Fredrock
Originally posted by captsven
So am I just wrong in saying Winston has enough chain wrap?
It looks ok to me but if I am wrong please tell me.
So am I just wrong in saying Winston has enough chain wrap?
It looks ok to me but if I am wrong please tell me.
Here's an excerpt from Surly's web site on this topic. While I agree with them on this point, I don't when it comes to using multi-speed chains (but that's a discussion for another day).
If you didn’t realize it, there’s only roughly half of the amount of teeth on your cog engaging the chain at any given time. In the case of an 11 tooth cog, that’s only 5 or 6 teeth at any given time! Unless your thighs are as big around as a Surly™ carpenter pencil, you will be able to make any low-gear transmission required for general one-speed off-road riding skip AT WILL, using an 11 tooth cog…
… and its not so different for a 16 tooth cog, probably the smallest rear cog you might have on your one-speed ride. Considering that you don’t shift, you’ll be giving EIGHT teeth the full wrath of your wide load up the harshest vertical climbs you choose to attack. What my long-winded explanation is getting at is that more teeth are better when it comes to an off-road one-speed drivetrain. One tooth makes a huge difference out back with regards to preventing skippage. Wear life, too, is improved with more teeth. Since you never leave that gear, every mile you spin is on the same few teeth. Your drivetrain will last longer and will skip less and will launch the chain fewer times if you use larger cogs and chainrings.
I recommend that you pick a big cog out back (18 teeth or larger) and experiment to find a gear ratio you like by varying your chainring sizes up front. The weight penalty here is practically non-existent; there is no benefit whatsoever to using a "Micro-drive" drivetrain on your one-speed off-road bike. Don’t do it! It’s dumb and you’re gonna hurt yourself on a steep climb.
… and its not so different for a 16 tooth cog, probably the smallest rear cog you might have on your one-speed ride. Considering that you don’t shift, you’ll be giving EIGHT teeth the full wrath of your wide load up the harshest vertical climbs you choose to attack. What my long-winded explanation is getting at is that more teeth are better when it comes to an off-road one-speed drivetrain. One tooth makes a huge difference out back with regards to preventing skippage. Wear life, too, is improved with more teeth. Since you never leave that gear, every mile you spin is on the same few teeth. Your drivetrain will last longer and will skip less and will launch the chain fewer times if you use larger cogs and chainrings.
I recommend that you pick a big cog out back (18 teeth or larger) and experiment to find a gear ratio you like by varying your chainring sizes up front. The weight penalty here is practically non-existent; there is no benefit whatsoever to using a "Micro-drive" drivetrain on your one-speed off-road bike. Don’t do it! It’s dumb and you’re gonna hurt yourself on a steep climb.
07-21-03 | 04:08 PM
#14
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: new york, ny
I've been thinking about switching to a 36x18. I measured my chainstay as best I could and went to that website riderx suggested. If I measured correctly, I think the new gearing might work out. Hence, I'd get rid of the singulator _and_ have more contact that surly and others suggest.
