+1

Looks like someone had their stem too tight.

OUCH!

I hope you weren't in a full-on sprint when that puppy went.......................


As for the OP's query: I now have a pretty simple and effective method for trimming bars/tubing;

(NOTE: While this is a very delicate operation, requiring precision, it is NOT for the faint of heart.)

1) Lay the bars in question on a sturdy plank (short piece of 2x6 or railroad tie).
2) Take careful aim with axe or splitting maul
3) Whack IT! (you now have a nice pinch through the tube)
4) Clamp one end of now-pinched bar in bench vise and grab other end with channel-lock type pliers.
5) Rapidly bend bar back and forth 'till it fatigues and snaps at pinch point.
6) Now use ball-peen hammer, sidewalk, and file, to re-round pinched end of bar.

simple enough, huh? Well, at least it beats my old method...........holding the bar across a railroad rail and waiting for a train.

Sort of. Flaring happens when the cutting wheel displaces the metal as it cuts through, unlike a saw, which removes metal chip by chip, about the width of the saw teeth. Pipe cutters don't remove metal, simply deform it with a hard, thin, circular rolling knife-like blade. I find a file (or grinder or belt sander or deburring tool) is usually necessary to fix the sharp edge left by a pipe cutter, which is on the inside of the tubing when using a pipe cutter. Some materials will actually flare out a bit, aluminum may be more prone to this IME. I think it may have to do with the softness and the thickness of the tube wall which affects this. Steel (and copper, FWIW) tends to end up with a slightly smaller O.D. at the cut area, with perhaps a much smaller flare. In any event, a file or powered tool will take care of it.

Pipe cutters work well. Just go slow and becareful that the cutting wheel doesn't "walk" out of your previously cut groove. The inside burr can be a pain to clean up.

Hack saws without a guide can work fine, but only if you are good with a saw. Personally, when ever I use a handsaw freehand my cuts are always crooked. The RIGHT way to do it is to use a guide that clamps onto the bar. The saw blade is in this guide and your cut will be perpendicular to the pipe. A mitre saw also works very well if you can clamp the pipe in place somehow.

HaHaHaHa - tell that to the pros...

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http://www.parktool.com/images/produ...0613_95578.jpg

Well, you better use a guide like is being used in that pic. ;) Otherwise youre ****ed.
Obviously, I was referring to a freehand cut.

I've done freehand (wrap tape around the steerer) and used a hose clamp for a guide on many forks, you just need to take it slow. I've also broken a few pipe cutting wheels on steel forks (hence the hacksaw job). And I sure wouldn't want to try to cut a threaded fork with a pipe cutter. That said, pipe cutters are handy tools for the right job.

haha, "freehand with a hoseclamp guide" isnt really freehand but its an excellent idea. ;)

Maybe it wasn't written clear, these were two separate things:
1) Freehand with the tape as a visual guide
2) Cut using a hose clamp as a guide (although if you've ever done this, it's still sort of freehand 'cause it's easy to go off course;) )

I see.
Yeah, its a good idea though and im sure helps.
How about two hose clamps?

Yep, it works. Only problem is the piece where the screw is located is slightly larger than the clamp. Halfway through the cut you need to rotate things. Extra care is needed. This applies for single or double clamp cutting.

I think a gas powered chopsaw is all that will work. those bars are hardcore.

What do you use when cutting carbon bars?