Choping some risers
 

I was wondering what kind of cutting tool you guys used to shorten the length of riser bars? I think the bar material is aluminium

A tube cutter works the best. Or, if youre total hack, use a hack saw.

Tube cutter
http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2...e002img001.jpg

Can you get a tube cutter at any hardware store?

yeah

Thanks for such a fast response deathhare!

No problem. Have you ever used a tube cutter?
In case you havent....first, snug it up on the tube. then you have to rotate it around the tube and about every few turns tighten it down a little more. Repeat that till the tube gets cut.

Hacksaw with 24 tpi works fine for my Easton EA70 bar.

As I am a total hack, a hack saw worked great for mine. Just last night, as a matter of fact.

hacksaw and file....

After spending the 6 dollars on a tube cutter at Ace, I will now laugh at anyone that hacksaws bars. When i did my flip/chops on my Peugeot, it took me like 25 minutes of sawing and struggling to find a set a clamps that would hold the bar sufficiently.

The tube cutter on my aluminum MTB bars took all of 3 minutes of easy carefree spinning.

Totally worth it.

Well the best thing about the tube cutter is that you can get a totally straight cut everytime without even paying attention or trying. Basically zero effort needed as well.
Its a decent tool to have in your box. Ive also cut seat posts and steerer tubes with them.
When you cut a steerer tube you def DONT want to use a hack saw if you plan to ever use the fork.

also helps to spray a little tri flow on there while you are spinin' the pipe cutter

saws all. I try to go for complete overkill when doing the simplest tasks. You end up with a pretty rough cut though, a file is necessary.

You mean a sawzall?
Why not use a shotgun? :)

fine, you can put a z in it, I have a **** hacksaw and everytime I wan't to cut bars the hardware store is closed. Plus, it takes me about 45 seconds to have a set of bars chopped filed and ready to ride

I didnt put a Z in it...thats how its spelt. :)

fine. All I know is that it saws all

agreed. :)

Ive cut many a bar with a hacksaw and file it down nice and smooth afterwards. Any amount that I am off with my cut the file takes care of it. Im an electrician by trade so Im pretty handy with a hacksaw :) The filing gives it a nice finished look, no rough edges....

hacksaw because i don't have a pipe cutter and the difference between the cuts is negligible because grips go on shortly after

Then you guys should bevel the edges and leave off the bar plugs!!!

Floor mounted Detroit Machine Works automatic bandsaw with water cooling jet, soft jaw insert on the chuck and micro adjust cut setter.

i was once told that a pipe cutter makes the ends flare out a bit

fwiw

If that were the case people wouldnt use them to cut steerer tubes...or copper water pipe for that matter.

hey don't shoot the messenger!

+1

Looks like someone had their stem too tight.

OUCH!

I hope you weren't in a full-on sprint when that puppy went.......................


As for the OP's query: I now have a pretty simple and effective method for trimming bars/tubing;

(NOTE: While this is a very delicate operation, requiring precision, it is NOT for the faint of heart.)

1) Lay the bars in question on a sturdy plank (short piece of 2x6 or railroad tie).
2) Take careful aim with axe or splitting maul
3) Whack IT! (you now have a nice pinch through the tube)
4) Clamp one end of now-pinched bar in bench vise and grab other end with channel-lock type pliers.
5) Rapidly bend bar back and forth 'till it fatigues and snaps at pinch point.
6) Now use ball-peen hammer, sidewalk, and file, to re-round pinched end of bar.

simple enough, huh? Well, at least it beats my old method...........holding the bar across a railroad rail and waiting for a train.

Sort of. Flaring happens when the cutting wheel displaces the metal as it cuts through, unlike a saw, which removes metal chip by chip, about the width of the saw teeth. Pipe cutters don't remove metal, simply deform it with a hard, thin, circular rolling knife-like blade. I find a file (or grinder or belt sander or deburring tool) is usually necessary to fix the sharp edge left by a pipe cutter, which is on the inside of the tubing when using a pipe cutter. Some materials will actually flare out a bit, aluminum may be more prone to this IME. I think it may have to do with the softness and the thickness of the tube wall which affects this. Steel (and copper, FWIW) tends to end up with a slightly smaller O.D. at the cut area, with perhaps a much smaller flare. In any event, a file or powered tool will take care of it.