Questions about wheels...
#1
Takeover is inevitable!
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Questions about wheels...
So when you all build up a new bike and you have a bunch of scrap parts or whatever, how do you get the rear wheel?
Some of you post pics of bikes, sweet ones at that, and some have suzue hubs, some have surley hubs, etc. How did you get those wheels?
Did you buy them? Build them? Have them built? What about the guys with old wheels (from the 80's) with a freewheel and not a cassette? Did you have to redish? Buy a new freewheel and just deal with the chainline?
Some of you may know what i'm trying to get at. If so, please explain as best you can.
It'd also be nice to see some pics of your rear wheel, gear and chainline.
Thanx.
Some of you post pics of bikes, sweet ones at that, and some have suzue hubs, some have surley hubs, etc. How did you get those wheels?
Did you buy them? Build them? Have them built? What about the guys with old wheels (from the 80's) with a freewheel and not a cassette? Did you have to redish? Buy a new freewheel and just deal with the chainline?
Some of you may know what i'm trying to get at. If so, please explain as best you can.
It'd also be nice to see some pics of your rear wheel, gear and chainline.
Thanx.
#2
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the ideal solution is to get a proper hub and rebuild your wheel on that hub, dishing it accordingly to achieve a perfect chainline. there are many other solutions... some people buy built wheels and use chainring spacers to get the chainline right, instead of respacing/redishing the wheel.
i personally had my wheels built and fit to my frame/crankset at the shop. $30 per build and i got some really nice handbuilt wheels, and no funny spacers on my chainring.
pic of the chainline: https://www.cs.pdx.edu/~marius/pics/f..._chainline.jpg
i personally had my wheels built and fit to my frame/crankset at the shop. $30 per build and i got some really nice handbuilt wheels, and no funny spacers on my chainring.
pic of the chainline: https://www.cs.pdx.edu/~marius/pics/f..._chainline.jpg
#3
hello
Originally posted by Yuppie
How did you get those wheels?
Did you buy them? Build them? Have them built? What about the guys with old wheels (from the 80's) with a freewheel and not a cassette? Did you have to redish?
How did you get those wheels?
Did you buy them? Build them? Have them built? What about the guys with old wheels (from the 80's) with a freewheel and not a cassette? Did you have to redish?
As for me, since I don't have a drawer full of old hubs, cranks, etc.... I usually pick up track hubs & crankset as needed, usually on Ebay. I'll pick up rims & spokes from a LBS and build the wheels myself.
Here's my drivetrain from above!
#4
I run real far
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I bought the Suzue/MA3 wheel handbuilt from Quality Bike Parts. Their stuff is for sale at a lot of online bike shops like airbomb and alfred e. bike. The wheel I got can be found for under $80, but your LBS can probably order it for you as well for around $90. I decided to support my LBS.
No dishing, no spacers, really decent wheel, and a perfect chainline right out of the box.
No dishing, no spacers, really decent wheel, and a perfect chainline right out of the box.
#5
Spawn of Satan
I am assuming you are talking about fixed.
One of the problems you may have is drop out spacing. This is the inside distance between the rear drop outs. Most track hubs are spaced for 120mm (thus track frames are 120mm). If you are converting an old road bike it is most likely 126 or 130mm. If this is the case you will need a longer axle and add a few spacers to it.
You can buy hubs set up like this or you can do it yourself.
Airbomb wheel
This wheel states that it is a track wheel. I would have to assume that it is spaced for 120mm and that is the way all the Suzue hubs come.
Axles
These are the axles you would need. Sheldon also sells spacers. Sheldon will also do all the respacing and axle swapping for you.
From my experience the chain line usually is not a problem. You can usually fine tune this around the bb or crank bolts if you have to but you usually do not have to. I may get abused for this but one of my cranksets chain line is off by about 20mm and I have never had a problem with it.
One of the problems you may have is drop out spacing. This is the inside distance between the rear drop outs. Most track hubs are spaced for 120mm (thus track frames are 120mm). If you are converting an old road bike it is most likely 126 or 130mm. If this is the case you will need a longer axle and add a few spacers to it.
You can buy hubs set up like this or you can do it yourself.
Airbomb wheel
This wheel states that it is a track wheel. I would have to assume that it is spaced for 120mm and that is the way all the Suzue hubs come.
Axles
These are the axles you would need. Sheldon also sells spacers. Sheldon will also do all the respacing and axle swapping for you.
From my experience the chain line usually is not a problem. You can usually fine tune this around the bb or crank bolts if you have to but you usually do not have to. I may get abused for this but one of my cranksets chain line is off by about 20mm and I have never had a problem with it.
#6
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Got my wheels built - old frame with 120mm spacing. Mavic open Pro on Suzue Pro Max. Sora crank and Phil Wood BB - Phil BBs are great as they give 5mm adjustment so I could get a perfect chainline with imperfectly matched sprocket & crank.