new windsor the hour - lots of noise - help isolate the problem
08-28-07 | 06:35 AM
#1
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From: Boston
new windsor the hour - lots of noise - help isolate the problem
Well i got a new windsor the hour. Nice bike for 300 bucks besides the drivetrain noise.
I am not sure what the problem is, when i push harder the noise increases and it is somewhat similar to grinding but not quite... it is kind of a vibrating sound
I hear new bikes have more noise... so should i give it time?
The chain is tight, should i loosen it? How do i know when to stop and should i use any tool other than myhands to tension a chain.
Lastly, i hear BD has a problem with greasing bottom brackets, could this be the problem? Any windsor the hour owners are able to chime in?
Thanks for the help guys
I am not sure what the problem is, when i push harder the noise increases and it is somewhat similar to grinding but not quite... it is kind of a vibrating sound
I hear new bikes have more noise... so should i give it time?
The chain is tight, should i loosen it? How do i know when to stop and should i use any tool other than myhands to tension a chain.
Lastly, i hear BD has a problem with greasing bottom brackets, could this be the problem? Any windsor the hour owners are able to chime in?
Thanks for the help guys
08-28-07 | 06:43 AM
#2
Banned.
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Lexington, KY
Bikes: Masi Speciale Fixed, Surly 1x1, 2 70's Bianchi folders, Swingbike, Columbia Cruiser 3 spd, Specialized Big Hit and P.2, Cove G-Spot, Xtracycled Bianchi San Jose.
I would try loosening the chain a bit first, tensioning by hand is fine as long as you finish tightening it down afterwards.
08-28-07 | 07:27 AM
#3
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From: 40205 'ViLLeBiLLie
Bikes: Sngl Spd's, 70's- 80's vintage, D-tube Folder
Noise can come from areas you dont expect too....
But check yer chain inna few different places cuz the chainrings
arent on the axles perfectly. If you have about 1/4-1/2" slack
you should be good. Also.....the cog sort of grinds until it seats.
Could be a little while(??)
On my Mercier, I can only assume the BB was stripped when it was
installed or rumors of Merciers being built from KHS seconds are
true. It would not come off even using the most scary tool 'o death
on it. I just ended up pouring real heavy oil down the seat tube
08-28-07 | 07:30 AM
#4
jerk store
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Boston
Bikes: '80s Chimo Garbage fixed 36/14, Centurion fixed 42/17
If you think the chain is tight, loosen it. If you're new to fixed and think the chain is too tight, then it's probably WAY too tight. The tight spot and the loose spot should both have some play; you just don't want your chain so loose that it will pop off when you hit a bump in the road.
Another helpful check is to grab your wheel and give it a spin (with the bike in a rack or upside down, obviously). The pedals should go at least one full rotation with a decent push. If they stop short, it's too tight.
Another helpful check is to grab your wheel and give it a spin (with the bike in a rack or upside down, obviously). The pedals should go at least one full rotation with a decent push. If they stop short, it's too tight.
08-28-07 | 07:35 AM
#5
tarck bike.com exile
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From: lancaster, pennsylvania
Bikes: bfssfg iro--black.
the noise could be from the fact that you paid like twenty five cents for the bike.
those things are so cheap, come on dude. everyone knows that the more money you spend on bikes the quieter they get. you'll need to drop a few more c-notes into that to have a real silent ride.
those things are so cheap, come on dude. everyone knows that the more money you spend on bikes the quieter they get. you'll need to drop a few more c-notes into that to have a real silent ride.
08-28-07 | 07:45 AM
#6
Boston did not sob
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I have a Windsor Hour.
If it creaks when you pedal sitting down, but not when you stand up, tighten the seat binder bolt-TIGHT.
If it creaks while pulling on the bars when dropping the hammer on weenies who paid too much for their bikes-try greasing the stem quill and tighten that mutha down-TIGHT
Make sure the pedals are on tight
My bottom bracket had a little port in the bottom and there was a gob of goo coming out, so I suspect it was/is greased down there.
If it creaks when you pedal sitting down, but not when you stand up, tighten the seat binder bolt-TIGHT.
If it creaks while pulling on the bars when dropping the hammer on weenies who paid too much for their bikes-try greasing the stem quill and tighten that mutha down-TIGHT
Make sure the pedals are on tight
My bottom bracket had a little port in the bottom and there was a gob of goo coming out, so I suspect it was/is greased down there.
08-28-07 | 07:47 AM
#7
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From: 40205 'ViLLeBiLLie
Bikes: Sngl Spd's, 70's- 80's vintage, D-tube Folder
the noise could be from the fact that you paid like twenty five cents for the bike.
those things are so cheap, come on dude. everyone knows that the more money you spend on bikes the quieter they get. you'll need to drop a few more c-notes into that to have a real silent ride.
those things are so cheap, come on dude. everyone knows that the more money you spend on bikes the quieter they get. you'll need to drop a few more c-notes into that to have a real silent ride.
except for a little stem creakage going up steep hills in VT.
For 300.00 you cant go wrong
08-28-07 | 07:56 AM
#8
Boston did not sob
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Also, please read the Sheldon Brown website about fixed gear bikes, it is a fantastic resource:
he chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the fork ends. If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.
Rear Wheel Installation
hen your install the rear wheel, there are basically three things you need to adjust simultaneously:
Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.
Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen one of the axle nuts and push the tire to the side so that the loose side of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.
Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the other axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will actually tighten the chain a little bit more.
The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back.
This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times. Note, this technique doesn't work with a quick release hub, but those are generally easier anyway.
he chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the fork ends. If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.hen your install the rear wheel, there are basically three things you need to adjust simultaneously:- The wheel needs to be straight. This basically means that the tire needs to be centered between the frame's chainstays. If you get it centered between the chainstays, it is properly aligned.
- The chain tension needs to be correct. (See previous section )
- The axle nuts or quick release skewer need to be tight. Note: if you have a nutted axle, it is vitally important that the threads be properly lubricated with grease or oil. You should also have grease or oil on the contact surface where the axle nut presses agains the washer that contacts the frame.
Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.
Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen one of the axle nuts and push the tire to the side so that the loose side of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.
Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the other axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will actually tighten the chain a little bit more.
The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back.
This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times. Note, this technique doesn't work with a quick release hub, but those are generally easier anyway.
08-28-07 | 08:35 AM
#9
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From: Boston
hm thank you for the replies, i did retension the chain and it seems to be slightly better. I will give it a full week to see if the noise goes away, it seems to sort of lower the more i ride...
I am also going to get a new rear cog, maybe that will make a difference.
Thanks
I am also going to get a new rear cog, maybe that will make a difference.
Thanks
