B-17 standard, gotten off ebay for $50. Decided to see what all the fuss is about for my IRO build. Damn this thing is heavy - I knew half a kilo is a hell of a lot for a seat, but it really hits you when you're holding the thing. It weighs more than my fork. But whatever, an extra 300 grams isn't going to kill me. I'm planning to chop it down - is wallbike the only place with pics of chopped up brooks? I'm looking for tips and ideas. I understand a utility knife is enough - I don't really have accesss to a grinder, though it looks like I'll need one for the bag tabs.

Wish me luck guys.

I actually wished I hadn't cut off my bag loops....

If you chop, consider leaving some flaps for punching holes and tying. Tying my brookses made em from saddles into supersaddles. It keeps the middle section stiff so that the back stays flat and your sit bones stay put, right in the two magic dents.

You can get rid of your tabs with a hacksaw and file, no prob. Be sure and touch it up afterwards with black nail polish or something to prevent rust.

FYI I now covet the tabbed Swift. I think a saddlebag on the tabs looks great and is very practical for big distances.

chopped brooks = cloud saddle

I was going for the same kind of look like the heavily cut down B-17 in the wallabike article. Is that enough room to lace at some undefined point in the future?
That's just way too old school for me to be honest, so I'm not too worried about it. And if I ever get that into these seats I'll upgrade to one of the ti models anyhow.

So for people who've done it - is a utility knife enough? That looks like some mighty tough leather...

Ooops, forgot to add the article I was talking about:
https://www.wallbike.com/content/butchering.html

Ohh yeah you will totally be able to lace if you cut it like that, with maybe a hair more room. In my post earlier I was thinking of something more like what is on a stock Swallow, but now it seems unnecessarily complex compared to what the guy did to his Swift in this pic. If you use this as your model you cant go wrong:



I hear ya on the old schoolness of tabs. I like that look myself but it wont fit with every bike or every aesthetic.

If you're not too heavy, lacing is not necessary. None of my chop jobs are laced and I weigh 160.

Whats the point of this whole Brooks chopping thing?

To avoid being the object of derision from hipster elitists.

I would ride with the Brooks before chopping. The weight savings cannot be that measurable - it's the metal that make's the saddle heavy albeit comfortable.

looks, and nothing else...

what does one use to make the holes for the laces?

I chopped my B17, mostly for the looks using a Dremel. No lacing:

i just really want to chop the nose and the rear of my brooks. i like the rest.

whats the point of chopping up a 300 saddle? all the cost is in the leather? why not get a selle itialian saddle?

It's a $50 saddle, not some masterpiece work of art - I don't feel that bad about it. I wanted to try the whole suspended leather saddle thing, that's all.

And yes, it is all about the looks, but so what? The way it is it would look kind of silly on my bike.

A leather punch. I got mine for $1 at a flea market and new theyre $10-15 at craft stores. I tried drilling, but unlike a punch it makes holes that are "torn" rather than "cut".

First of all Selle Italia saddles are nice; I have one. However, they wear out way too fast, and Brooks last forever. Second, the B17 only cost $80 brand new (thanks weak US Dollar).

I've got pics of mine. Let me find em.

Hope these will help you out a bit. I just guessed when I did mine.

This is completely not what it looks like now. I will get a recent pic soon, I sanded the sides down even and proofide'd it and rode 300 miles on it. I looks much better now.

Chopped Brooks' look like S&M fetish objects.

Any suggested number of holes or spacing? Also, has anyone covered/protected the holes with those little rings that come on shoes?--or isn't there a need to?

+1

what do you guys find works best to cut with?