Did you redish the wheel after that? If the spacer is thick enough to matter your wheel needs redishing.

That's a bad idea - tensioners ( I hope you have the ones that pull the axle back in mind) can not stand the pull of the chain they are great for setting initial tension. Fix the nuts, instead.

Shouldn't matter.

Yes I did.

My dropouts have little metal plates around them for the nuts to grab on to. Problem is, the nuts have gouged into them and want to rest only in that one spot. I have another Langster frame, I'll just switch them out but I'll be clueless the next time it happens.

If I decide on chain tensioners, it will be the ones that hold the wheel backwards. I'm just out of ideas on the bike. The drive train is original except for the chain so I'll start there.

The chain is making a "popping" sound. If I stop pedaling and then pedal again, it goes away... then comes back. It's coming from my freewheel.

The only fix I have is the volume button on my mp3 players.

The popping from the freewheel is just shoddy manufacturing of the freewheel unit. I'd bet that it's a Shimano (though the ACS are largely the same, quality-wise) and they are often manufactured out-of-round. I have the same problem with the repetitive noises-- just backpedal, get rid of the noise and forget about it. Or buy a White Industries ENO-- I'm saving up for one...

I'm pretty baffled by the "metal plate around the dropouts" thing. Can you post a pic? Is this usual on Langsters? Pretty weird. Seems like your nuts shouldn't be biting into your frame that hard... are you using quality track nuts (with the independently-moving attached washer)? You should be able to achieve proper tension with your nuts...but a chain tug can help keep things steady. I use the Surly model, but some guys don't like them because they're kind of big. Beefy as hell, though, and very adjustable (they have two axle holes).

Well for the brakek, good thing since you're new at this-- But very easy to face over and smash your head in. If I was using the brake, I probably wouldn't even leave the saddle, keep all the weight on the rear triangle.

Just take it slow like you stated. Might be weird at first, you'll be Ace in no time (maybe)

Well I think you'll ride it for about 10 min before you're not bouncing up and down in the saddle...the you'll try a skid and get it becuase they are that easy, and then you can practice trying to get the trackstand for 3 hours. Tons of fun. Makes me wish I never rode a fix before just so I could do it again for the first time.

And tuck in your shoe laces, you don't want ANYTHING getting caught in the chain. You won't be able to backpedal to release it.

Holy crap. My co worker told me the exact same thing. I guess the threads can be crooked on the Shimano freewheel so I should get a White Industries one. He said they go for $40 so i think I'll spring for it. Does a freewheel wear with a chain? Should I be getting a new chain too? I get to go bike part shopping tomorrow, I love those days.


Unfortunately I don't have a digi camera. But there's metal plates around the dropouts shaped like a "U." They pretty much have a "circle" etched into them now from the washer. The nuts I'm using are the ones you described. There's the 15mm part, and then a spinny washer attached to it.

If you can get a WI ENO for $40, then you're a lucky fellow. They normally retail for $60-80...and they're nice, but really not necessary. The Shimano works fine, it just sounds bad. I replaced mine a while ago, thinking that a new one would solve the problem...nah, they're just not well made. But they do the job. Wait until yours wears out...unless you got money to burn, and then get the WI.

If the drivetrain is relatively new, then you won't need a new chain, but you need to solve this wheel-slipping issue, and fast. Slack chains will cause real trouble for all your drivetrain parts, and can be very dangerous in addition. Get it worked out (take it to a shop, if you need to) before you start riding fixed. SS can handle slack chains alright (still not advised), but with fixed, it's an absolute no-no.

hes talking about these kinda of chain tensioners foo

Oh yeah! Got it all fixed today! I'm not sure exactly what cured my chainline because I did a bunch to it all at one time.

First thing I did was bought a new freewheel. Just another Shimano one, same size. Pretty much hoping that it was dead-on straight.

Second, I bought these:


Not exactly the color I wanted but they don't look half bad. The work really well and very adjustable.

So I took it for a test ride, and was so happy I put some Ultegra dual pivot brakes on it in celebration. Also found some nice pedals for $30, and some metal toe straps. I feel like I just got a new bike... and good thing because I dropped about $175 on it after some discounts.