AStomper

I never even thought of using a monkey wrench. I use them all of the time at work, and boy are they versatile. I promise you that I can get more foot pounds out of a 30" monkey wrench than anyone can get out of a lockring tool. Also, 30 ft. lbs. isn't much at all, a lug nut is tight at 80-110, not that that matters since noone uses torque wrenches anyhow.

Landgolier

Other that weird junk some shop has in the bottom drawer and the stuff that comes on half the off the peg bikes, can you even buy a stamped cog any more? I've never seen one for sale.

9Rings

You obviously shop at a boutique LBS. regular bike shops are always willing to sell you junk for $15 a pop.

lamalex

I have an EAI on my Phil, so yes. yes you can.

michael 66

Thank you. Nice post.

Momentum

A couple of ways in which the cheapness of cheap cogs shows itself and which I have experienced:

A cog that was too thin to adequately fill the gap between hub flange and lockring. The cog could unscrew about a turn with the lockring fully tightened. You don;t need to be an awesome skiddar for this to be a problem.

A cog which had an off centre hole leading to varying chain tension.

I think that is the only thing IO can add to 11.4s informative post, but it helps to illustrate how the cost savings are reflected in the quality of the end product.

Landgolier

Generally yes, shops will sell you junk, but where are they getting them? I can't even find a stamped cog from any of the wholesalers I have access to. Like I said, there's always a drawer full of old stuff like this in every shop, but where else would you even get one?

9Rings

All I know is I bought a no-name cog for $15. It doesn't look like junk, snugged up nice and tight, seems to run fine so far, and as long as I don't ride in Retem's neighborhood, Im good to go.

geoffs

All I know is that I used a cheap no-name cog on my hub and I stripped the thread off the hub going up a short steep hill. I read on Phil woods site that A stamped cog may only have a few threaded engaged on the hub, whereas a miched cog will have all it's threads engaged.
After a long walk home and a new hub, I'll only be using machined cogs such as Dura-ace or EAI.
I should qualify this by saying that I'm 215lbs so I might put out a bit torque than some people.

Cheers
Geoff

BaronDapcher

Here is my problem:
Running a 3/16 KMC chain on a 1/8 16t stamped low-end cog. I like the chain and prefer to keep it; had too much stretching on 1/8 chains. The inner pins on the chain rub up against the spokes and it is annoying. Tick-tick....tick...tick-tick-tick. There are 2 threads left on the Formula hub for the lockring.
Putting the hub on a new frame and will adjust the chainline later.

Question(s): How can I get the cog to be 2 mm further away from the spokes? I have been told that a spacer would take away threads for the cog.
Who makes the widest threaded cogs? Dura-ace looks like they are recessed for a lockring. Surly and Rockwerks look the widest. Anyone have any specs? Couldn't find them on Sheldon Brown.

craigmoyer

Sure can. Benscycle sells formula cogs, which are definately stamped, and real cheap for that matter.