Okay so I've broken down the bike components to the frame, stripped the paint, and am ready to order parts. The only thing: I have no f**ing idea where to begin! The paint process I have covered, but as far as wheels, bottom bracket, hubs... I have no idea where to go next. How do I find out if a bb is compatible with my bike? Its an older Schwinn World Traveler by the way. I think Japanese made. How big of tires/rims do I get? Do I get the hubs / spokes / rims separate? Please drop knowledge... I need it!

Personally (and I think many would agree) I wouldn't touch that Bottom bracket with a 10-foot pole. Unless you have the stock BB/crank and its in perfect condition, I would venture to say you would be better off with a new modern design BB frame. Those old BB Shells are very outdated and you may have a helluvatime finding something to fit it.

Just my .02

-Jerry

um, you know you can get a complete new bike for like three hundred bucks, right?

Your best bet is to repost this over in the Classic and Vintage forum. They can help you a lot.

The bike had the one piece cranks like BMX bikes do. Go here for some options on the bottom bracket and cranks. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html#opc
One thing to remember when getting a bottom bracket is what spindle length you'll need to get a good straight chainline with your rear hub. check Sheldon Brown's fixed gear HQ for info. on that. I believe a 103mm bottom bracket works with a 120mm rear hub.

The dropout width is most likely 120mm but measure it to make sure. You can get rear hubs in various widths; 120mm being the one track bikes have and a lot of old 5 speeds.

Originally, the bike had 27" wheels but the new 700c rims will work. When you order rims and spokes, you'll need to make sure the number of holes in the rim matches the number of holes in the hub. You'll also need to know what length spoke to get. The easy way out is to have your wheels built by one person who gets all the parts for you. I recommend getting a fixed/fixed hub to give yourself plenty of options but that's just an opinion.

Depending upon your riding skills, terrain, how cool you want the bike to look; you'll need to figure out how many gear inches you want to run. 48T chainring and 17T cog is a good place to start. Don't forget to get a lockring. Get the 3/32 cogs and chainrings and a 3/32 chain. A bit more flexible and forgiving of the chainline.

Next, the headset is for a 1" threaded fork which you've got so you just need a 1" quill stem. Pick whatever angle and length you want. If you've got other bikes, you can measure their stem lengths to help you get the right length on your new one.

Handlebars are all over the place and you get to pick whichever one you like. Make sure it'll fit your stem, which may be a 25.6mm, 26mm, etc.

I recommend at the very least a front brake. You can get some longer reach sidepull brakes but it's easy enough to find some cheap centerpull brakes on eBay or the 'net. They will be able to work with the slightly smaller 700c wheels even though the bike came with 27"s.

Either use some calipers or have the bike shop measure the seatpost diameter. Bike shops may have some old ones lying around you can get very cheap. Slap a saddle on there and you're ready to ride.

+ Frankenberries

where's the fun in that?

Ha! Well for one, the fun starts with a bike he can ride this afternoon. The the fun really gets going when he's actually riding his bike as opposed to figuring out what parts to buy, where to buy them, and how to assemble them.

I don't think it's worth it to convert a frame with a one-piece BB shell, especially if you're going to go all out painting it. If you want to convert a beater and the stock cranks are already there and working, then maybe it's worth it, but you could find a better frame for $10 at some thrift store.

That said, it would be kickass if you could get some cartridge bearing of the correct size, press them into the shell at each side, and then use modern 2-piece crankset like Hollowtech. This is basically what the newest version of the Trek Madone does. But.. the shell width is probably wrong, you probably can't find the right size bearings, etc.

I think this should look sick when finished. It just looks bad because it's all stripped. If the bottom bracket is going to be a hassle finding the right parts then it might not be worth it. Where can you get a complete fixie online for $300?

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../messenger.htm

https://bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm

Theres a few.

getting one of those... I would feel like I'm cheating. almost pathetic really. I'd rather be a s*** and do it the hard way I guess.

I agree, I built my own as well. I would just suggest something without that BB shell. Even if you get the parts, they are an inferior design and just plain aren't good. Like someone said above, you could get a nice lugged frame with horizontal dropouts and a regular English BB shell for super cheap at a local co-op or thrift store. I guarantee you will regret it if you build that frame up.

Good luck man!

-Jerry

I hate to hear that but I can understand what your saying... I definitely will reconsider building it up. Can you get unpainted frames with english bb for cheap anywhere on the net?

does anyone else have an opinion on this bike? especially the bottom bracket and its conversion?

IMHO, you should just go on Craigslist and buy an old road bike for conversion. I've seen at least 3 bikes (granted I'm in Boston) in the last week that would make excellent conversions. If you just check every day for a few days, I'm sure you'll find something worth buying.

thats where I got his bad boy from. It is an old road bike... but a little TOO old I guess.

I would not bother with the frame. Ashtabula cranks and stamped dropouts would not imply any particular quality in the frame, and chain line may be an issue using a one piece crank. There are better starting places out there. Keep looking.

If you insist, Harris Cyclery carried parts for one piece cranks: https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html

Unless I'm a complete 'tard that would be an American BB

So you may be able to go the route of a BMX BB & Crank

ie:

Bottom Bracket

Cranks

That is a big maybe.......

trash that crap.

Whether it's "cheating" or not depends on your objective. If your objective is to ride, then it's not cheating. If your objective is to learn how to assemble a custom bike then that's different.

better hit the parts bins at your local co-op... haha

I'm bummed. All that work stripping....

Don't worry man, we have all done something of the sort. Maybe you can even find a new frame with good paint, then you wont need to strip again.