My First Wheel Build!!!
#27
park ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
From: mars
Bikes: recumbents
bsourcewhacker, you know the nipples are offset in those rims right? i can't really tell for sure, but something looks funny...and your key spoke is off for sure.
go to the part about the key spoke here and read that. yours should look like that except on an open pro the key spoke should have an empty hole between the valve hole and the key spoke.
so pay attention to this paragraph.
"The key spoke will be next to or one hole away from the valve hole in the rim.
As viewed from the right (freewheel) side of the hub, the key spoke will run counterclockwise, and it will go to either the hole just to the right of the valve hole (as illustrated) or the second hole to the right, depending on how the rim is drilled. The aim is to make the four spokes closest to the valve hole all angle away from the valve, giving easier access to the valve for inflation."
with an open pro it will be one hole away from the valve hole...explained in this paragraph.
"Rims are drilled either "right handed" or "left handed". This has to do with the relationship between the valve hole and the spoke holes. The spoke holes do not run down the middle of the rim, but are offset alternately from side to side. The holes on the left side of the rim are for spokes that run to the left flange of the hub. with some rims the spoke hole just forward of the valve hole is offset to the left, with others it is offset to the right (as illustrated). Which type is "right handed" and which "left handed"? I have never met anyone who was willing to even make a guess!"
go to the part about the key spoke here and read that. yours should look like that except on an open pro the key spoke should have an empty hole between the valve hole and the key spoke.
so pay attention to this paragraph.
"The key spoke will be next to or one hole away from the valve hole in the rim.
As viewed from the right (freewheel) side of the hub, the key spoke will run counterclockwise, and it will go to either the hole just to the right of the valve hole (as illustrated) or the second hole to the right, depending on how the rim is drilled. The aim is to make the four spokes closest to the valve hole all angle away from the valve, giving easier access to the valve for inflation."
with an open pro it will be one hole away from the valve hole...explained in this paragraph.
"Rims are drilled either "right handed" or "left handed". This has to do with the relationship between the valve hole and the spoke holes. The spoke holes do not run down the middle of the rim, but are offset alternately from side to side. The holes on the left side of the rim are for spokes that run to the left flange of the hub. with some rims the spoke hole just forward of the valve hole is offset to the left, with others it is offset to the right (as illustrated). Which type is "right handed" and which "left handed"? I have never met anyone who was willing to even make a guess!"
Last edited by piwonka; 09-27-07 at 09:49 AM.
#28
Thread Starter
Never be too specialized
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park, Kansas
Bikes: Secialized S-Works Tarmac E5 with Ultegra/Dura-ace; Guru Elite with Ultegra; Raliegh Supercourse with 105
First of all, brant i assume, im sorry but blue and orange were never m favoite colors! dont get me worng i wear them with pride! just nto my colors... =)
And yea, i know i did all the little things wrong, and i really wish i would have read more and not takin this as no big deal, but really im just tickled that me wheel rolls and stays true. ha. I gotta say, knowing that the the holes are offset, i really wish i knew... probably the source of my problems with stubborn nipples? i guess i don think its a big deal because i can get my pump in on the valve stem fine! even with the long valves i happened to have!
so lessons learned...
-key spoke is more important than i thought
-brass nipples are best
-look through valve hole, see the hub name
-READ READ READ
And yea, i know i did all the little things wrong, and i really wish i would have read more and not takin this as no big deal, but really im just tickled that me wheel rolls and stays true. ha. I gotta say, knowing that the the holes are offset, i really wish i knew... probably the source of my problems with stubborn nipples? i guess i don think its a big deal because i can get my pump in on the valve stem fine! even with the long valves i happened to have!
so lessons learned...
-key spoke is more important than i thought
-brass nipples are best
-look through valve hole, see the hub name
-READ READ READ
#30
park ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
From: mars
Bikes: recumbents
First of all, brant i assume, im sorry but blue and orange were never m favoite colors! dont get me worng i wear them with pride! just nto my colors... =)
And yea, i know i did all the little things wrong, and i really wish i would have read more and not takin this as no big deal, but really im just tickled that me wheel rolls and stays true. ha. I gotta say, knowing that the the holes are offset, i really wish i knew... probably the source of my problems with stubborn nipples? i guess i don think its a big deal because i can get my pump in on the valve stem fine! even with the long valves i happened to have!
so lessons learned...
-key spoke is more important than i thought
-brass nipples are best
-look through valve hole, see the hub name
-READ READ READ
And yea, i know i did all the little things wrong, and i really wish i would have read more and not takin this as no big deal, but really im just tickled that me wheel rolls and stays true. ha. I gotta say, knowing that the the holes are offset, i really wish i knew... probably the source of my problems with stubborn nipples? i guess i don think its a big deal because i can get my pump in on the valve stem fine! even with the long valves i happened to have!
so lessons learned...
-key spoke is more important than i thought
-brass nipples are best
-look through valve hole, see the hub name
-READ READ READ
Your nipples most likely aren't seated well in the eyelets, plus your key spoke is off. That is a $60 rim, no need to half ass it.
so just take it apart and relace it. it shouldn't take more than an hour to relace it, then another hour to true it, you don't even have to take the spokes out of your hub. Just make sure you get your key spoke in the right spot and go slowly.
Al nipples aren't that bad. Just keep some extras and have a good spoke wrench. They do make truing more difficult...but that is a tough rim. once you get it true it should stay true as long as you have the nipples in the correctly offset holes
#31
Thread Starter
Never be too specialized
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park, Kansas
Bikes: Secialized S-Works Tarmac E5 with Ultegra/Dura-ace; Guru Elite with Ultegra; Raliegh Supercourse with 105
so i've officially picked up some new nipples and will sit down to re-lace tonight.
half the nipples are just toasted. I definitely learned my lesson here....
if its worth doing, its worth doing right....
i'll post some pics as soon as i have the wheel redone correctly.
half the nipples are just toasted. I definitely learned my lesson here....
if its worth doing, its worth doing right....
i'll post some pics as soon as i have the wheel redone correctly.
#32
Thread Starter
Never be too specialized
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park, Kansas
Bikes: Secialized S-Works Tarmac E5 with Ultegra/Dura-ace; Guru Elite with Ultegra; Raliegh Supercourse with 105
sooooooo progress... i'm done!
the wheel is now done like... 90% correct.
let me explain...
spokes are now in the right offset holes, oh man huge difference that made! also, i can now see the word "formula" on the hub through the valve hole, BUT.... valve hole is not in the right spot in relation to spoke pattern...
and this is only because i lack the tools and access to tools at this point, to take off my track cog and lock ring.
for some reason or another, our tool to remove the lock ring is missing. and because we don't ever deal with track wheels at the shop, the chain whip has an 8 speed chain on it that will not fit on the cog even if i did devise a way to get the lock ring on... my only option was to use vice and ruin both
and u guessed it, we dont have any track cogs in the shop!!!
all this made me very ashamed of my shop and left me with a wheel only 90% correct, but correct enough for me. i can get on the vlave with a pump just fine, so that doesnt seem to be a problem with me... and the wheel is truer than its ever was before with nipples that actually look new.
-Wacker
the wheel is now done like... 90% correct.
let me explain...
spokes are now in the right offset holes, oh man huge difference that made! also, i can now see the word "formula" on the hub through the valve hole, BUT.... valve hole is not in the right spot in relation to spoke pattern...
and this is only because i lack the tools and access to tools at this point, to take off my track cog and lock ring.
for some reason or another, our tool to remove the lock ring is missing. and because we don't ever deal with track wheels at the shop, the chain whip has an 8 speed chain on it that will not fit on the cog even if i did devise a way to get the lock ring on... my only option was to use vice and ruin both
and u guessed it, we dont have any track cogs in the shop!!!
all this made me very ashamed of my shop and left me with a wheel only 90% correct, but correct enough for me. i can get on the vlave with a pump just fine, so that doesnt seem to be a problem with me... and the wheel is truer than its ever was before with nipples that actually look new.
-Wacker
#33
Well, if it works for you, then that's all that matters. I know I sometimes have trouble accessing the valve even when it's in the right place! Definitely with the floor pump, I like to have the part above the valve "open", especially when I am removing the pump end from the valve. That's when more room is critical.





