I've searched the forums, but couldn't find any good info.

I just got a flat on my rear wheel. This is my first fixed gear and I bought it off the shelf so I didn't have to build it, so coming from the geared bike world, I had a couple questions about replacing the tube.

On my geared bike I could just open the quick release, pop out the wheel and fix the flat from there. On a fixed gear it's obviously different. Do I have to remove the rear wheel, and take the chain off to fix the flat? I'm asking because I know to put it back on requires making sure the wheel is centered, getting a straight chainline, and tensioning the chain - all things that seem difficult and time consuming for a person new to fixed gear bikes.

Let me know if there is an easier way. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

You don't have to take off the chain nor worry about chainline. Move the wheel forward in the fork ends, and have the chain fall off your chainring. There should be enough slack to now remove the wheel. After you fix your flat, basically just do the same thing in reverse. Getting the chain tensioned right is really easy if you "walk" the axle. Tighten one nut, then move the next nut farther back in the fork end to tension the chain. Now loosen the first nut and center the wheel.

Of course the easiest way is to just patch the tube and not remove the wheel at all.

Good luck!

I <3 my MKS chain tugs.

"Just set it and forget it!" -Ron Popeil

i'm currently playing the world's smallest violin for you. suck it up and get used to taking the aforementioned steps. it's really not that hard.

In summation:

A rear wheel flat is a pain in the arse on a fixie compared to a quick-release equipped bike. Yes, take the chain off, the wheel off, fix the flat, then put the wheel back on whilst looping the chain back around the chainring and cog. Pull tension on the chain, and walk the wheel into position as blickblocks says (also described in more detail on Sheldon Browns omniscient website).

If you aren't covered in grease and grime by the end of the proceedure, you weren't doing it right.

Yup.

With a conversion though the whole thing is much easier. Flip the bike over, pull the wheel out, and catch chain on the chain-holder-braze-on thing. No need to derail the chain off the crank.

Thanks for all the help guys. I did check out Sheldon's site, so I should be all set now. I'm not against doing the work 666pack, I was just worried I would screw up the chain tension after re-installing the wheel, because I have never done it before.

blickblocks - so I can just take the tire off the wheel, pull out the tube and patch it that way without ever taking the wheel off? I thought I had read about that before, but it seems harder to do for some reason.

Make sure you don't over-tighten the chain. Bad things will happen.

1/2" play or so.

Depends on the tire really. Some tires' beads pop off real easily, and then you can just pull out about 1 foot of tube out. Patching is easy, then just stick it back in the tire and remount the bead. Most tires I've dealt with have been real pains to mount and dismount, so I would rather just sit down and deal with it instead of hunching over with the wheel still on the frame. It's worth trying before you take the wheel off.

Especially if you're out riding, it would be worthwhile to try to try a tube repair without removing the wheel.

i've done it before (on standard old 26" bike), and it can still be kind of a pain. Normally you find the leak in the tube by airing it up, but that gets awkward when it's still draped around the axle.

Don't know if people do this or not: But would it be a good idea to mark on the track ends with some tape exactly where the axle was positioned, so that when you put the wheel back on, you have a good frame of reference to help tension the chain?

I think you're making this out to be more of a task than it really is. There isn't that much precision involved in chain tension. If you're super duper picky about it, do the walk back thing. If you don't honestly give a ****, push it back (don't pull) and then tighten the nuts.

Chain tension is really all you have to worry about, and it's not too hard to get it right. Just fart around with it and you'll see. Like humancongereel said, about 1/2" of vertical chain movement is good. Too tight, and you can mess up the bearings in your BB, too loose and you might drop your chain (keep a brake on your bike?).
Really, changing a flat on a FG/SS is easier & faster, since you don't have to mess with derailleurs or extra-long chains.
Wheel centering is easy; you already have the tools (mounted on the front of your face, just beneath your forehead and above your nose).

Haha, I guess I am making it more complicated than necessary. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.

Ok, I'm at home now trying to work on this flat, but ran into a big issue. The rear wheel is all the way forward in the track ends - meaning I can't push it forward to get any slack in the chain, so I can't remove the chain at all. How did they even get the chain on then? I'm totally stumped how to get around this.

Any ideas?

damn dude. what kind of bike is this?? and um, weird...i dunno. (i'm assuming we're talking about an off the peg fixed/ss bike here) if its really how you say it is, break the chain and buy a new one of the proper length.

You know what. I've proven myself to be an idiot. Did a quick BF search and found my answer. I was just trying to pull the chain off, instead of pushing it to the side and pedaling so it just rolls off. I'm stupid, but at least I learned something new today.

watch yer fingers!

Do you know what derailing is?

Seriously, good luck.

Yea, that's how I figured it out - thought about what a dérailleur does. Oh well, it's finished now!

False. If you are covered in grease and grime, it means that you used a newb chain lube.

this thread is funny. its weird, its actually easier for me to change a rear fixed flat than on my road bike. i always have trouble getting the rear wheel back in there with all that crap blocking my way

I totally agree.. I hate dealing with the stupid derailluer thing

Yeah mrbc it's really not that hard. You'll get good at it after doing it five or six times.