Starting a Fixie
#1
Starting a Fixie
I want to build a fixie and now know to do it almost! But I need info on parts and stuff! I don't know if this is the rite place to post this or not Im a newbie at this stuff would love to get all intense like some of the people I have seen on here. As far as building this fixed I have a cost budget at 300 since this is my first fixie I have a fuji road bike but I really love fixed gear bikes they rock!
So since my budget was at 300 dollars I was wondering what kind of track wheels (brand should I get), I don't know if this is a quality brand Vuelta XRP 700c Track / Fixed Gear Wheels BLACK? Secondly what kind of crankset should I buy I heard bulletproof is good? Last I live in a hilly town and was wondering what gear ratio should I use if I am pretty decent road biker not awesome but decent? I would love if you guys would help me out!
Thanks
Hinduthug!
So since my budget was at 300 dollars I was wondering what kind of track wheels (brand should I get), I don't know if this is a quality brand Vuelta XRP 700c Track / Fixed Gear Wheels BLACK? Secondly what kind of crankset should I buy I heard bulletproof is good? Last I live in a hilly town and was wondering what gear ratio should I use if I am pretty decent road biker not awesome but decent? I would love if you guys would help me out!Thanks
Hinduthug!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Check out these sites, they will help you out immensely:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
You can still use your wheels. If its an older road bike it might have a cassette freewheel, meaning you can unthread the freewheel and throw on a fixed gear cog. This is considered a suicide hub. People will tell you its stupid to use this method, but alittle loctite or jb weld will keep things secure. However, if you plan on riding brakeless, get a new rear wheel. Check out this site on how to rotafix the fixed gear cog onto the hub if you plan on using your existing wheels. Oh yeah, if you do use your current wheels you will need to redish your wheel, thats covered in the sheldon brown articles.
https://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm
For the price of bulletproof cranks I would suggest looking at ebay for a set of older Shimano 105 or 600(Ultegra) cranks. Make sure you get 165mm or 170mm as anything longer you will run the risk of clipping your pedals through a turn! As for bottom bracket you need a 68x107, plenty of brands carry this size. Shimano has the UN-54 which is under 20, but I hear you cant take it apart. I personally run a Tange Seiko bottom bracket which is by far one of the smoothest bottom brackets Ive owned.
As for gear ratios, I would suggest an easy ratio like 44/16 or 42/16, it will help you get used to spinning. As you gain strength, put on a larger chainring or a smaller cog.
If you have any questions, post em up!
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
You can still use your wheels. If its an older road bike it might have a cassette freewheel, meaning you can unthread the freewheel and throw on a fixed gear cog. This is considered a suicide hub. People will tell you its stupid to use this method, but alittle loctite or jb weld will keep things secure. However, if you plan on riding brakeless, get a new rear wheel. Check out this site on how to rotafix the fixed gear cog onto the hub if you plan on using your existing wheels. Oh yeah, if you do use your current wheels you will need to redish your wheel, thats covered in the sheldon brown articles.
https://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm
For the price of bulletproof cranks I would suggest looking at ebay for a set of older Shimano 105 or 600(Ultegra) cranks. Make sure you get 165mm or 170mm as anything longer you will run the risk of clipping your pedals through a turn! As for bottom bracket you need a 68x107, plenty of brands carry this size. Shimano has the UN-54 which is under 20, but I hear you cant take it apart. I personally run a Tange Seiko bottom bracket which is by far one of the smoothest bottom brackets Ive owned.
As for gear ratios, I would suggest an easy ratio like 44/16 or 42/16, it will help you get used to spinning. As you gain strength, put on a larger chainring or a smaller cog.
If you have any questions, post em up!
#4
supernaut
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: austin, tx
Bikes: Nishiki Custom Sport (converted to fixed, 44/16)
Just stay away from this website: https://bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=178
You should be good if you do that.
You should be good if you do that.
#5
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,429
Likes: 257
From: Ashland, VA
Bikes: The keepers: 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Twenty, 3 - 1986 Rossins.
Couple of bits of advice, based on having just finished my own bike:
1. By your own admission, you're new to this. Therefore, you want brakes on the bike. Period.
2. If you can afford a new rear wheel, go with a track hub - this gives you the option of either riding fixed gear or freewheel singlespeed. There's times when the ability to switch is worth it's weight in gold.
3. Assuming you do #2, ride the bike for a couple of days as a singlespeed. Get used to the bike, then worry about getting used to the art of riding a fixed gear.
4. Shimano Altus. It's a brand/model of crankset, 110 BCD (which is one of the two most common standards) - it's a compact crankset, chainwheels are real plentiful, and the cranks themselves are common as dirt, and very good, serviceable quality. Highly recommended. Check your local second hand bicycle shop.
5. You want brakes. You're not that cool - yet. Attempting to be cool on a brakeless fixie without the requisite skills is a wonderful way to show the general public what an uncoordinated jerk you area - if you're lucky.
1. By your own admission, you're new to this. Therefore, you want brakes on the bike. Period.
2. If you can afford a new rear wheel, go with a track hub - this gives you the option of either riding fixed gear or freewheel singlespeed. There's times when the ability to switch is worth it's weight in gold.
3. Assuming you do #2, ride the bike for a couple of days as a singlespeed. Get used to the bike, then worry about getting used to the art of riding a fixed gear.
4. Shimano Altus. It's a brand/model of crankset, 110 BCD (which is one of the two most common standards) - it's a compact crankset, chainwheels are real plentiful, and the cranks themselves are common as dirt, and very good, serviceable quality. Highly recommended. Check your local second hand bicycle shop.
5. You want brakes. You're not that cool - yet. Attempting to be cool on a brakeless fixie without the requisite skills is a wonderful way to show the general public what an uncoordinated jerk you area - if you're lucky.
__________________
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)





