Need help removing Pedals
#7
crotchety young dude
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,818
Likes: 0
From: SF, CA
Bikes: IRO Angus; Casati Gold Line; Redline 925; '72 Schwinn Olympic Paramount
Only the non-drive pedal is reverse-threaded. And they could be pretty well stuck on there.
#10
MattFashion
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: lancaster, pa
Bikes: 70's le Tour with brazed track drops
the most effective way i've found (after a good healthy dose of PB Blaster), is to use a the crank arm, and your 15mm wrench like a pair of plyers. you can get alot of pressure from the palm of your hand when you're squeezing a fist.
it usually breaks them loose.
it usually breaks them loose.
#12
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Over and back.
Put the wrench on the pedal, and then turn over and back- over the pedal and towards the back of the bike. It works for either side.
If it is frozen on, soak over night in WD40. Maybe heat the crank and then put ice on the pedal axle. Just keep trying with the appropriate wrench. Do not strip. Maybe put a piece of pipe over the wrench and use as a breaker bar.
If it is frozen on, soak over night in WD40. Maybe heat the crank and then put ice on the pedal axle. Just keep trying with the appropriate wrench. Do not strip. Maybe put a piece of pipe over the wrench and use as a breaker bar.
#13
I hate stuck pedals. I bent a repair stand last week trying to free a stuck pedal - stupid me.
Try taking a 'cheater bar' such as a long length of sturdy pipe or a longish seatpost w/ saddle attached and put it over the end of the wrench. Now when you push down, you can get a lot more leverage.
Try taking a 'cheater bar' such as a long length of sturdy pipe or a longish seatpost w/ saddle attached and put it over the end of the wrench. Now when you push down, you can get a lot more leverage.
#16
#17
Banned.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 1
Bikes: 2009 Surly Steamroller, 19?? Fuji ?, 19?? Univega Viva Sport, Marin/Xtracycle combo
if it's super stuck and WD40 isn't working, go grab a can of pb blaster and some sprite. figure out a way to let the pedal sit in the sprite for a couple of hours, then let the pb blaster soak for a couple of hours. should do the trick. the soda eats away any buildup or deposits, and the pb blaster is a really strong penetrating lubricant. tie the opposite crank up, and tap the pedal a few times with a hammer. grab your wrench and a cheater pipe if you have one, and take that ***** off.
#18
yo yo yo yo yo
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,518
Likes: 0
From: delaware
hold the crank (pedal end) over a gas stove for a while. wrench them things off. works like a charm. (thank you jobst brandt)
edit: oops, schwinn continental, probably steel crank, nevermind..
edit: oops, schwinn continental, probably steel crank, nevermind..
Last edited by trons; 10-11-07 at 02:18 AM.
#19
ha. a few months ago i picked up a continental at a garage sale. i completely disassembled/degreased/regreased it and ran into this same problem with the pedals. here's what i did...wrap the crank arm in a towel or dishcolth and put it in a vice. make sure it is in there TIGHT. find the longest wrench you can, you'll probably have to go with an adjustable to find the longest one you can, but you need all the torque you can get. make sure you know which way it is threaded, i can never remember which pedal is reverse threaded and which one isn't. it was a pain to get that pedal off but the moment it broke free was pretty satisfying.
and out of curiosity...were you planning to convert this to fixed? if you already have, well ok. but if you haven't you should know a few things...the one piece crank on those continentals isn't really the best option for fixed. there is a video somewhere of a guy folding a one piece crank in half while riding fixed (or so my roommate told me). and that bike is HEAVY. i think mine was 38 lbs before i lost the deraileurs and now ride it as a SS (the super cheap/free conversion way). if it were me, i would convert a lighter frame. just some things to think about.
and out of curiosity...were you planning to convert this to fixed? if you already have, well ok. but if you haven't you should know a few things...the one piece crank on those continentals isn't really the best option for fixed. there is a video somewhere of a guy folding a one piece crank in half while riding fixed (or so my roommate told me). and that bike is HEAVY. i think mine was 38 lbs before i lost the deraileurs and now ride it as a SS (the super cheap/free conversion way). if it were me, i would convert a lighter frame. just some things to think about.
#20
[QUOTE=a b seize;5433206]i can never remember which pedal is reverse threaded and which one isn't. QUOTE]
Just remember this, "right is right"
On the right side of the bike the threads are normal, on the left side of the bike, the threads are reverse.
-Jeremy
Just remember this, "right is right"
On the right side of the bike the threads are normal, on the left side of the bike, the threads are reverse.
-Jeremy
#24
if it's super stuck and WD40 isn't working, go grab a can of pb blaster and some sprite. figure out a way to let the pedal sit in the sprite for a couple of hours, then let the pb blaster soak for a couple of hours. should do the trick. the soda eats away any buildup or deposits, and the pb blaster is a really strong penetrating lubricant. tie the opposite crank up, and tap the pedal a few times with a hammer. grab your wrench and a cheater pipe if you have one, and take that ***** off.
#25
And yes, it really works. This stuff is one of my "can't live without" items.
Last edited by Eulogy13x; 10-12-07 at 03:05 PM.




