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the average person probably doesnt need an industrial sewing machine
but we have some above average people here |
Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
(Post 5566873)
Someone should dig up all the old threads on this subject and link to them here.
Bag Makers: Tell me about your tools: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=221129 Ergonomic design project: messenger bags http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=263572 Custom Bag Fabric Suppliers http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=273097 Messenger Bag Templates http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=273208 DIY Bags: thread tension and needles? http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=231420 DIY Top Tube Pad http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=187292 Great advice from SamHouston (Under the Weather) http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...4&page=3&pp=30 Homemade Messenger Bag materials http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=116434 |
Originally Posted by blickblocks
(Post 5566894)
For those of you using a Juki, I haven't the slightest clue why my thread keeps breaking. Last thing I worked on was sewing through 4 layers of cheap 2 inch webbing for a strap modification, and I had to turn the drive manually because as soon as I added some power it would snap. I'm using upholstery thread. Is this no good? Dan what kind of thread did you use on Pegasus? I want to try some better stuff.
If the needle's inserted correctly, try changing it - a dull needle can cause no end of headaches. |
Thanks for posting the links, man. These are handy.
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Originally Posted by beatifik
(Post 5566138)
JUKI's are the best machines BAR NONE. all fashion schools use em and the majority of factories/sweatshops i've been to in NYC are all filled with JUKI.
but.... make sure you get one of the older ones that are made in japan. the newer ones are made in china and while they still kick ass, they will die faster than a japanese one. if it's a gross green color it's a pretty sure bet it's a japanese one. if it's white, it's probably chinese. FYI -- that's not entirely true; only Juki's lower-end machines are being made in China. My DNU-1541-S is still made in Japan (purchased new at the beginning of 2007). It's also the finest piece of machinery I own. When I was shopping around for an industrial walking foot, I briefly considered the Juki 1181, but it *is* made in China. I'm very, very happy with my 1541. I mean, just look at this oil tank/gearbox: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/3...1359265b5d.jpg |
Originally Posted by FlippingHades
(Post 5569565)
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Straws.. who are you?
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my grandmother back home still uses her Singer. it has a platform on the base of the stand you teeter-totter back and forth with your feet to operate the machine.
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Originally Posted by FlippingHades
(Post 5569565)
FYI -- that's not entirely true; only Juki's lower-end machines are being made in China. My DNU-1541-S is still made in Japan (purchased new at the beginning of 2007). It's also the finest piece of machinery I own. When I was shopping around for an industrial walking foot, I briefly considered the Juki 1181, but it *is* made in China. I'm very, very happy with my 1541.
I mean, just look at this oil tank/gearbox: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/135/3...1359265b5d.jpg |
Originally Posted by dwood
(Post 5565312)
To do it right . . . you need a commercial 'walking foot' machine.
Proud owner of a Pfaff 1245. DON |
Originally Posted by piratelove
(Post 5572932)
Straws.. who are you?
i was gonna recommend you talk to that fella (piratelove) about his sewing and stuff, hes SOOOOO hands on and exclusive |
Originally Posted by lvleph
(Post 5579692)
You can get a walking foot for non-commercial machines. I have been debating whether I should spend the $40. It definitely would help with straight lines.
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Originally Posted by FlippingHades
(Post 5567845)
Definitely check 2 things about the needle -- first, make sure it's inserted correctly! With industrials you can rotate the needle 360 degrees; there's no flat to keep it inserted perfectly. I've inserted one backwards before and spent long minutes going crazy until I realized my mistake.
If the needle's inserted correctly, try changing it - a dull needle can cause no end of headaches. another thing could be that you machine is just dirty when lint and stuff build up underneath the bed plate it can have all kind of mystery issue now I am on a tangent |
I agree with Fugazi Dave. This tread makes me so happy... I want to borrow my girlfriend's sewing machine now and learn something.
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Originally Posted by fatbat
(Post 5580308)
How well do these things work? I've got an old kenmore, which is a good home machine, but a walking foot would be nice.,
I agree with those who have said to get an industrial machine if you want to sew multiple layers of canvas or nylon. My main issue with using my home machine to make bags is clearance under the presser foot. I have trouble fitting multiple layers under there. |
Originally Posted by Retem
(Post 5581103)
also if you use size 90 bonded thread it doesn't like going backwards too much on a drop feed machine the thread will wrap itself and come apart I have also had issues with bobbin cases being old and not keeping the thread tight enough
another thing could be that you machine is just dirty when lint and stuff build up underneath the bed plate it can have all kind of mystery issue now I am on a tangent Having a few machines that get used hard fulltime I have run into every kind of problem that you can ever imagine. I have had to learn how to fix my machines, so if anyone has a problem then I would be glad to offer what assistance i can. |
I haven't used used a Singer 306, but I can vouch for the 401. I picked one up off of Craigslist for fifty bucks, and it has been well worth it. So far I've easily sewn through nine layers of coated 1000d cordura. The 401 is one of the last household machines by Singer that is 100% gear driven. I've seen 'em go for between 100 and 200 bucks on ebay depending on the condition/attatchments.
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The two most common causes I've encountered with the upper thread shredding or breaking are operator error.
1] As another poster mentioned . . . be sure the needle is inserted the right way. The 'slot' goes on the side away from the bobbin hook. or 2] The upper thread coming off the spool has somehow become entangled in something [or some part of the machine] causing extra drag on the thread. Or you haven't threaded the machine properly. I've also used my industrial Pfaff walking foot machine to sew clothing-weight material. Extra care must be used in selecting quality thread, relaxing tensions, and using the proper size needle. I've found too that I need to slow down somewhat to keep from breaking thread. The only serious problem is that if you are working on something delicate . . . the foot pressure, even when minimum, will often mark or damage the work. No wedding dress alterations here! <g> Bottom line: if you are 'most' interested in medium/heavy projects like bike bags, back packs, etc. you are better off purchasing an industrial machine with a walking foot. It will do clothing better than a 'home type' machine will do bags/packs. DON |
I thought with all this talk about sewing, well, I'd show off my first project! Its completely recycled, everything was taken off something else that was broken. The fabric is actually plastic bags that I melted with an iron. It was tons of fun and my first bag!
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1263/...0ce95238_o.jpg |
I recently moved into a house that had an old straight stitch industrial consew in the basement that i set up and started using. I've been having problems attaching binding to the seams on my bags and am looking into getting a binder attachment.
http://www.atlaslevy.com/binders.htm I found these, and I know I either need the 100ls or s64(for thick materials). Does anyone have experience using a binder with several layers of cordura plus vcp? |
so i was in the pfaff store today because i wanted a catalog and because it was next to the mac store.
the lady walked around me to talk to me female friend after i asked her a question. grrr. |
I bought a Singer 239 last night. It worked for a while but now it's making a weird grinding noise and then will stop. When I pull my fabric out there's a bunch of thread bunched up on the bottom of the fabric. I'm going to try a few different bobbin and top thread combinations and get some oil at work tonight. Hopefully that will fix it because I dont have 50 bucks to drop on a tune up.
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more than likely your bobbin is jammed and your machine is dirty take a small screw driver and an old tooth brush and take the bed plate off the bobbin case and bobbin out and clean the hook bobbin case and feed dogs even take the feed dogs off of the feed dog arm and make sure there isn't any thread reminants under that flip the machine over and clean it as well
after this clean and oil the machine thru out and see if it solves the issue also the little tension spring on the bobbin case can have stuff trapped under it take it off and clean the bobbincase |
Originally Posted by Youngin
(Post 5587858)
I thought with all this talk about sewing, well, I'd show off my first project! Its completely recycled, everything was taken off something else that was broken. The fabric is actually plastic bags that I melted with an iron. It was tons of fun and my first bag!
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1263/...0ce95238_o.jpg |
Straws,
With any sewing machine . . . and particularly heavy duty ones . . . it is necessary to hold both threads securely until you've completed a couple of stitches. Holding them down with one finger often isn't enough. I actually wrap a turn or two through my fingers and hold on tight. What you describe is exactly what will happen [most of the time] if the threads are not held. DON |
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