rounded teeth? post a pic of that chainring.

And a bike shop doesn't need to carry FG products to fix your problem. Sounds like all you need is a new chainring and a few millimeters in bottom bracket spacers. It's simple math.

A 1/8 cog and 3/32 chainring is just fine. I run that setup with no problems. Actually, a mismatched drivetrain would give you some wiggle room if your chainline isn't dead straight.

The chainring you need isn't a Fixed-specific part, if there is such a thing, since the BCD of that chainring is either 110 or 130 any bike shop should have something to fit.
A response like this just leads us to believe even further that the failure you had with these cranks was user error or it could still be a defective part not properly installed which still makes it user error.

A 45mm or 46mm chainline isn't a big deal, just put a couple of BB spacers between the hub and the cog to space out the cog to match the chainring chainline. You actually look like you have enough clearance between the chainstay and the ring to go with a shorter BB to get a 42mm chainline too. You've got a couple of options.

But first you need to measure your chainline more precisely. I never eyeball the center of the seat tube to measure chainline. I use this method



In all honesty I probably can't tell the difference between a bike with a chainline that's 2-3mm off to one with a dead straight chainline.

I have this crankset on my Dawes SST with some generic chainring and I have no complaints. If you are doing normal riding, you shouldn't have a problem with this crank.

trasssshhhhhhhhhhhh

My 2009 Trek 1.2 came with the Veros (triple) and they just can't stand up to heavy riders like myself (238lbs). Before I put 100 miles on the bike they were creeking so loud as to disturb others, not to mention myself, on rides. I replaced them with an Ultegra triple, but had to use the Vero's large cain ring cause my front derailer would only go to 50t not the 52t that came on the Ultegra.

My son has the same cranks on his Trek, but so far no problems with his 140lbs.

Same here.
110bcd road double version of the FSA Vero/RPM that came stock on my Cross Check. I've got 7,500 miles on it in 18 months, including 3 doubles (2 this year) and over a dozen centuries (7 this year). Commute in the snow for a couple of months... The crank itself is fine. I just replaced the cheapass UN-54 bottom bracket because it progressed from clicking noises to a steady grinding sound over the last week, but I'm not swapping out the cranks until they're thoroughly thrashed.

See my previous post about how many miles I've got on a pair of Vero cranks.
I weigh 250 pounds. Are you certain that the creaking wasn't from poorly greased BB threads or the pedals?

In response to what some of you are saying about cranks in general--

I do think you can feel a difference b/w diff. cranks. I had some cheap Pake cranks that felt really flexy. Now I have 75s, and I can tell a huge difference. They are much stiffer and the BB is much smoother. I'm sure Vero cranks are fine and would hold up to use by most of us, but it is definitely possible to tell a difference b/w good cranks and crappy cranks.

Agreed.
I have a set of 105sc cranks from 1991 on my singlespeed, and they're lighter and stiffer feeling than the Veros on my brevet bike which isn't even 2 years old.
The BB smoothness hasn't got anything to do with the cranks, though. I could mate my cheapass Vero crankset to a really nice Phil BB and it will roll smooth forever. Or I can go my current route which is to replace the $25 UN-54 as it wears out every 18 - 24 months, until I decide to upgrade to a better crank/BB combo.

<i>"See my previous post about how many miles I've got on a pair of Vero cranks.
I weigh 250 pounds. Are you certain that the creaking wasn't from poorly greased BB threads or the pedals?"</i>

Certain, still using the same pedals (Ritchey) and everything was properly greased and tightened, I just put to much pressure on the steel to aluminium connecting of the square taper.

Not trying to pick an argument, but are you highlighting aluminum as if other cranks aren't made of the same material?

105, Ultegra and D-A cranks are aluminum also.

pretty much all cranks are aluminum...

I know BB doesn't have anything to do w/ cranks, but generally you get a new one when you get a new crank and the combination upgrade makes a HUGE difference, IMO.

I have a choice between heliocoiling a stripped FSA crankset for $60 or buying something else new/used for probably around the same price.

Is it worth it to get them fixed or should I buy something like a Sugino XD crankset for like $10 more?

If anyone has any cheap cranks in their parts bin that they want to get rid of pm me because I'm currently running the stock crank on my '81 traveler and I'm growing tired of it, ugly, heavy, huge q-factor, etc.

The FSA, new or damaged, isn't worth anywhere near $60. Pick up the Sugino RD for $20 more.

I have had no problems with mine.

I use them and they definitely have some flex but I like them a lot for the price