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Why expensive headsets?
As in, what's the point? On all of the dumpster-bikes I've seen the headsets, even the cheapest ones, are still perfectly functional, even when other bearing parts like hubs are shot.
More expensive ones sometimes look better, are supposed to last longer, and allegedly run smoother, but if I don't care if it's anodized to match my other aluminum parts a la Chris King and I don't care how smoothly it runs (I've ridden headsets that have had their bearing races sandblasted by an inattentive sandblaster), and I have no problem replacing it every couple of years if it does in fact wear quickly, then why should I shell out over $20 for a headset? I guess this thread comes from my purchasing a $9 headset for a >$1000 build. Should I have gotten something better? I say no, but that's why I'm asking.. there's got to be a reason I'm missing. |
Headsets are total vanity components in my opinion. I ride whatever stock ones have been on my conversions with no problems. People just really want that Chris King logo, I guess.
So I totally agree with you. Also, you riding the race in AA sunday? I'm thinking about heading down for it. |
They are indeed a vanity component. With older looseball headsets, buying a better quality one worked better. I know this because I had one die after riding in nasty WI winter weather. It was upgraded to a $25 shimano STX and functionality was restored.
Beyond a decent $20 or so piece, however, there is no reason. I have a Chris King on my cross bike, but just because I got it on the cheap. It sure is nice and smooth, and has held up to endless thrashing and inclement weather. More or less, they are gold cuff-links for your bike! Cheers, |
As I understand it (this was before my time), early threadless headsets were often of so-so quality, with the exception of the Chris King. Time has passed, headset manufacturing is considerably more advanced and a $20 Cane Creek will last you a lifetime, but the Chris King endures.
They also offer, as I understand it, an unconditional lifetime warranty, like Phil Wood hubs, you would have to replace several headsets to justify the cost. |
because there is a demand, a supply of costly headsets will be made...
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i like having sealed bearings.
other than that i don't care. s-2 i love, it is. |
Some people like high end headsets...there is nothing wrong with that. To each his/her own.
I'm really happy with the Cane Creek ($40) on my fixed. It is sealed, smooth, and with proper cleaning and maintenance (which is sooooo easy) I cannot see it last less than the life time of the bike. Does not feel as smooth as a non-sealed loose ball headset though. :rolleyes: I'm on 8 years with the Campagnolo Chorus headset on my road bike ($40) For my cyclocross bike, I just keep replacing the $16 Ritchey headsets as needed (every 2 years or so) since it takes so much pounding and slings from mud and water, but I still clean it every few rides or so to get the dirt out. After a while, it can only take so much, it gives in, and it gets tossed. I feel the key to long headset life if regular maintenance...higher end ones will be sealed and will go longer without regular service, but after rides in heavy downpours, or lots of mud, they need cleaning. The riding conditions also play a major role inthe life of a headset, of course. |
In some situations it is an advantage--I used to ride DH mountain bikes, and I had a bike with a chris king headset on it that lasted through 6 seasons of hard riding, and is still going strong. Although another headset might have lasted (though I've had ones that haven't), it's not really worth risking destroying a $3,000+ frame by ovalizing the head tube. I think it makes a lot less difference on bikes that don't take quite so much abuse.
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I just replaced a stock (crap) bottom of the line Cane Creek headset on my KHS with a slightly higher end one (S-2), costed me about $45 total with labor. Couldn't be happier right now. I've ridden the really nice Hatta Super Swan Deluxe one too because it came on a keirin bike, I'd say they're both nice but if it came down to it I can't see spending more than 40-50 on one.
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I overhauled the loose bearing headset on my conversion last week and it still doesn't feel as good as the cheap Cane Creek cartridge headset on my road bike. I think it's a matter of technology having improved, much like cartridge hubs, making a $50 track hubset that's actually very good possible.
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I cannot see the point in spending $$$ on a high end headset unless you are some some extreme riding.
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Originally Posted by JohnnyDoyle
(Post 5617058)
In some situations it is an advantage--I used to ride DH mountain bikes, and I had a bike with a chris king headset on it that lasted through 6 seasons of hard riding, and is still going strong. Although another headset might have lasted (though I've had ones that haven't), it's not really worth risking destroying a $3,000+ frame by ovalizing the head tube. I think it makes a lot less difference on bikes that don't take quite so much abuse.
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It isn't where I would spend my premium dollars.
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This might sound like BS, but there was a HUGE different between my cane creek[which I destroyed in a matter of 3 months] and my chris king headset.
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Originally Posted by BuddyMike
(Post 5617166)
This might sound like BS, but there was a HUGE different between my cane creek[which I destroyed in a matter of 3 months] and my chris king headset.
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I love that people are jocking the CK haedsets, that leaves my LBS parts bin full of brand new headsets that are being pulled off all these peoples bikes and sold to me for $5
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It was mostly my fault. Bike polo incident. It was a good headset, but I messed up the compression ring and the headset later because of that. I decided to spend a little more on something that will probably a very long time and the steering was much much smoother. I would definitely get another cane creek headset though.
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Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
(Post 5617182)
How so? Seriously, I would like to know. I love my Cane Creek - it's been on 3 frames and hasn't so much as whimpered.
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Originally Posted by BuddyMike
(Post 5617221)
It was mostly my fault. Bike polo incident. It was a good headset, but I messed up the compression ring and the headset later because of that. I decided to spend a little more on something that will probably a very long time and the steering was much much smoother. I would definitely get another cane creek headset though.
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Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
(Post 5617247)
So really it wasn't the quality of the headset at all. :)
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Fair enough.
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Originally Posted by BRANDUNE
(Post 5617213)
I love that people are jocking the CK haedsets, that leaves my LBS parts bin full of brand new headsets that are being pulled off all these peoples bikes and sold to me for $5
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The stack height is a little bit of an issue w/ threaded ones because you have to make sure you have enough threads for it all to fit, and if it is too long you just need the proper spacers. The only real thing that you need to worry about is finding access to a cup press unless you want to just make your own
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you have to worry about ovalizing the headtube and stack height, sure. other than that, with the proper tools it's cake.
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The frame I just bought comes with a 1 inch threaded Chring King headset and a Sugino 75 bottom bracket. I really couldn't afford to buy these seperatley, but I guess I'm anxious to see why these are such high quality components.
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Why get an expensive anything part? You see a lot of bikes with bling everywhere and then a generic stem, seatpost, whatever. At least a headset is moving parts that are critical to the control of your bike.
I've worn notches in the bearing races of cheapo headsets that came on complete bikes, and had others that wouldn't stay in adjustment, and had yet others that were the lowest of low end and were perfectly fine. I've ridden a Cane Creek S8 on my current bike for 2 years because I got it for cheap and wanted something slightly nicer than a generic one; it's stayed in adjustment, and the bearing seals and race design have it smooth and in adjustment when it's been on a bike ridden by a heavy rider on dirt, so I'd say that's pretty good. Would a cheapo one be just as good? Dunno. In another thread, someone justified Thompson posts by saying that the additional expense is for the toughest, lightest design that is made such that if it fails, it is likely to fail in a non-catastrophic manner that doesn't cause damage to the bike or the rider. Since I've ovalized a headtube on a bike (with a cheapo headset), I figure you can extend that to a headset or anything else too. Anyone who shells out for one of those zillion dollar track chains is crazy though. I doubt you can "feel" anything about it though, unless you're already using damaged equipment or the very humblest, which is probably still pretty servable most of the time. |
I dropped 50 on a Stronglight Delta.
I'd do it again. Luckily, I don't think I'll have to for a long, long time. |
Hmm.. good insight you guys. You're making me feel better about my bottom of the line Tange-Seiki Passage. I don't ride DH or cross, and I try not to ride in the rain, so I'll probably be good.
What's this about ovalizing the headtube? It sounds like something I should probably be worried about seeing as I plan on pressing it myself with a homemade press (threaded rod + washers). But then again if it is ovalized, it'd match all my other tubes (including the seat tube and seat post :p). EDIT: Oh, and Curiousincident.. I might show up if the weather is nice (I've got a lung condition or something that makes riding in cold air very painful so if it's below 40...). Hopefully I'll have my build done by then, it'll be something to see. |
Originally Posted by ieatrats
(Post 5617588)
someone justified Thompson posts by saying that the additional expense is for the toughest, lightest design that is made .....
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Originally Posted by Boss Moniker
(Post 5618290)
What's this about ovalizing the headtube? It sounds like something I should probably be worried about seeing as I plan on pressing it myself with a homemade press (threaded rod + washers). But then again if it is ovalized, it'd match all my other tubes (including the seat tube and seat post :p).
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