How bad is it to use a crappy cog?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Surly Pacer, Trek 520 & gaspipe fixed gear beater
How bad is it to use a crappy cog?
OK, I know it's a stupid question, and in general its a bad idea to use a crappy stamped steel cog, but here's my situation.
I have a real beater of a bike as my fixed conversion. The goal was to build it as inexpensively as I felt safe doing. For me, this necessitated buying new wheels and a new front brake caliper to fit the new wheels.
The wheels came with a cheap, stamped 16T cog. I immediately swapped it out with a quality machined 14T cog. After nearly a year, I decided that I want to go back to the lower gearing I get with the 16T cog.
If it matters, I never skid. I always use my front brake, unless I'm already going real slow and it is easy to come to a stop by backpedalling. It's my low-budget beater and I'm not out to set any records on it...I don't ride it hard. I do like to trackstand at lights. Can I get by with the crappy cog I already have, or should I buy a new quality cog?
I have a real beater of a bike as my fixed conversion. The goal was to build it as inexpensively as I felt safe doing. For me, this necessitated buying new wheels and a new front brake caliper to fit the new wheels.
The wheels came with a cheap, stamped 16T cog. I immediately swapped it out with a quality machined 14T cog. After nearly a year, I decided that I want to go back to the lower gearing I get with the 16T cog.
If it matters, I never skid. I always use my front brake, unless I'm already going real slow and it is easy to come to a stop by backpedalling. It's my low-budget beater and I'm not out to set any records on it...I don't ride it hard. I do like to trackstand at lights. Can I get by with the crappy cog I already have, or should I buy a new quality cog?
#2
It'll probably be fine. I rode for a year with a stamped cog that had been rotafixed onto an old freewheel hub, with no lockring. That wheel and cog is still in use by a friend of mine on his junker conversion.
As a matter of principle, I wouldn't want to use a cheap cog on a good hub, but if its a cheapo beater, use whatever you got. There's no sense wasting money if you don't need to.
As a matter of principle, I wouldn't want to use a cheap cog on a good hub, but if its a cheapo beater, use whatever you got. There's no sense wasting money if you don't need to.
#4
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,640
Likes: 0
From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Buy a new one. Unless your hub is a piece of **** and not worth saving, it's not worth it. Spend $20.
#6
steel lover
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,316
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Bikes: Bianchi Alloro, Miyata 710, Fuji Espree Fixie convert
He already has the cheap cog... so it's free 
Depends on how much you like the hub... if you don't wanna trash it... spend the 20. If the hub/wheel is disposable... use the cheapie.

Depends on how much you like the hub... if you don't wanna trash it... spend the 20. If the hub/wheel is disposable... use the cheapie.
#7
surly old man

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 44
From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
I can only provide anecdotal evidence. I have one cheap cog on a freewheel hub that has given no trouble in a year of riding. But another one, also on a crappy freewheel hub that was brand new, stripped out after about 10 pedal strokes. No exageration. I have steered clear of them since, especially since the price difference is so small.
jim
jim
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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SB forever
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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SB forever






