drop handlebar and arm clearance problem
#1
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drop handlebar and arm clearance problem
just finished my first fixed gear. 
here is the annoying problem im running into. the drop bars im running are roughly and 43cm wide from an old schwinn sprint. when ever im riding on the drops and lean forward (skidding or cranking uphill) my forearm right above my wrists hits the bars.
it acctually happend so often the spot is swollen on both arms
. im 6'3" with a 20in(50cm) shoulder width would a wider bar benefit and fixed my problem or is that just what happens with drop bars and i may need to look into some bullhorns? any input would be great.
thanks
cas
ps this has happend to someone else right?

here is the annoying problem im running into. the drop bars im running are roughly and 43cm wide from an old schwinn sprint. when ever im riding on the drops and lean forward (skidding or cranking uphill) my forearm right above my wrists hits the bars.
it acctually happend so often the spot is swollen on both arms
. im 6'3" with a 20in(50cm) shoulder width would a wider bar benefit and fixed my problem or is that just what happens with drop bars and i may need to look into some bullhorns? any input would be great.thanks
cas
ps this has happend to someone else right?
#5
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Joined: Jan 2008
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i started working on it 
as far as frame sizing its a 58cm which i think its a good fit. what might not be is the stem, seat adjustment.
also the stem also came off a smaller shchinn so its only like maybe 1.5-2"long
but i mean is this something that happens or is something obviously wrong. bike shop told be about the flared out track bars. but he also pointed out the stem size.

as far as frame sizing its a 58cm which i think its a good fit. what might not be is the stem, seat adjustment.
also the stem also came off a smaller shchinn so its only like maybe 1.5-2"long
but i mean is this something that happens or is something obviously wrong. bike shop told be about the flared out track bars. but he also pointed out the stem size.
#6
I think you're thinking of Randonneur bars. They flare out. Early track drops flared out too.
Personally I don't think it's an issue of improper setup, because anyone could have this problem by standing up while in the drops of road bars. This is when you use the tops.
#9
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ya all ive riden in the past is mtb. i guess i just need to get use to only using the drops for crusising fast.
so i shouldnt be in the drops when standing up? i know silly questions but i guess i gotta start somewhere.
so i shouldnt be in the drops when standing up? i know silly questions but i guess i gotta start somewhere.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: NYC!
Bikes: Jamis Sputnik (2007) & Bridgestone RB-2 (1994).
Yeah, being able to be standing while in the drops can be useful.
Track bars generally start curving earlier that normal road bars, giving more clearance. Some bars like the major taylors take this to more of an extreme. Maybe if you rotate your bars a little bit you can get a little more clearance from them without the drops becoming uncomfortable. If track bars dont sound like the answer (maybe you have aero brake levers), then ranndoneur bars could work. If you dont really use the drops too often but just like the leverage from standing there is always used bullhorns of chop-flops.
Track bars generally start curving earlier that normal road bars, giving more clearance. Some bars like the major taylors take this to more of an extreme. Maybe if you rotate your bars a little bit you can get a little more clearance from them without the drops becoming uncomfortable. If track bars dont sound like the answer (maybe you have aero brake levers), then ranndoneur bars could work. If you dont really use the drops too often but just like the leverage from standing there is always used bullhorns of chop-flops.
#11
fixed or bent
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Brooklyn
Bikes: 1989 Panasonic Track 4000, 2000 Burley Django (bike show prototype), 1980's Serotta Custom Criterium
3t actually made drops for Moser just to address this problem, but eventually he switched to a revolutionary "bull horn" shape 3t later developed for his hour record.
#12
If you're using a conversion, especially if it's an older (80's) frame, then the top tube could be shorter than more modern bikes with equivalent seat-tube lengths. This could mean that the bike is still 'small' for you. I had this problem with an old Schwinn. I also was pressing my forearms against the top of the bars when in the drops.
I changed to bullhorns. Not as many hand positions, but it works for me.
I changed to bullhorns. Not as many hand positions, but it works for me.
#13
road rage expert
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Portland Or.
Bikes: Hardrock Pro, Allez elite triple, Raleigh single speed.
#14
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From: four 1 OHHH , Maryland
Bikes: nagasawa, fuji track pro
i started working on it 
as far as frame sizing its a 58cm which i think its a good fit. what might not be is the stem, seat adjustment.
also the stem also came off a smaller shchinn so its only like maybe 1.5-2"long
but i mean is this something that happens or is something obviously wrong. bike shop told be about the flared out track bars. but he also pointed out the stem size.

as far as frame sizing its a 58cm which i think its a good fit. what might not be is the stem, seat adjustment.
also the stem also came off a smaller shchinn so its only like maybe 1.5-2"long
but i mean is this something that happens or is something obviously wrong. bike shop told be about the flared out track bars. but he also pointed out the stem size.
#15
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Joined: Jan 2008
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i guess i just dont know better...
for clarifying this, my arms only hit when standing up. i acctually feel pretty comfy when sitting and using the drops.
yeah i need to look into a longer stem just dont know how long...and maybe new bars
as someone pointed out i like using the leverage of the drops for sprinting and skiding. so maybe bull horns of chop the ones i have now will work?
#17
centi-hectare?
To the OP, a longer stem should be your first choice. If that doesn't help, get measured properly- you're probably riding a bike that's too small for you. Also, your arms should be bent when riding in the drops. If you're riding with locked elbows even a 66cm frame with a 140mm stem isn't going to solve this problem.
To the OP, a longer stem should be your first choice. If that doesn't help, get measured properly- you're probably riding a bike that's too small for you. Also, your arms should be bent when riding in the drops. If you're riding with locked elbows even a 66cm frame with a 140mm stem isn't going to solve this problem.
#18
n00b
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: nice Raleigh roadbike and an S&M BMX
That being said I do know what you're talking about, but my solution is for you to check the rotation on your drop bars (the flats should be parallel to a couple of degrees rotated up from the ground) which could be affecting you. I also wholly endorse the Nitto Noodle bar. It sweeps out a bit at the drops and is generally my favorite handlebar ever.
#19
the problem you describe is the reason for the distinctive curve on "track" style bars. flare might help, a longer stem might as well.
you can certainly ride on the tops a lot, plenty of people do that. some also complain that the hand position is not comfortable, you'll have to find what works for you.
i personally find road drops with hoods to be a lot more comfortable, and i've got three different hand positions that are ideal for different situations. by playing with height and stem lengh i'm able to sprint out of the saddle in the drops without hitting my forearms. but it took some fiddling.
you can certainly ride on the tops a lot, plenty of people do that. some also complain that the hand position is not comfortable, you'll have to find what works for you.
i personally find road drops with hoods to be a lot more comfortable, and i've got three different hand positions that are ideal for different situations. by playing with height and stem lengh i'm able to sprint out of the saddle in the drops without hitting my forearms. but it took some fiddling.
#21
Post-modern sleaze
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: Fuji fixed, Browning fixed, MTB
As mentioned before in this thread, track bars have that smoother top curve for the very purpose of sprinting in the drops. Roadies don't use the drops as much when out of the saddle--they're mainly for descents.
Riding the tops of track bars takes a little getting used to, and is a bulls**t experience on a stick if they're not wrapped (or have grips on top), but it is nice to be able to use the drops without your arms hitting.
Look into Nitto track bars, or Deda Elementi, or 3T, or Eastons if you're feeling ritzy.
Edit: as for the shoulder width, yours sound pretty wide, and I know that Nitto B1243/5 come in a variety of widths--try looking at a fit calculator such as the one at www.wrenchscience.com to determine the ideal width. Or measure out a mock-up and do some comfort testing.
Riding the tops of track bars takes a little getting used to, and is a bulls**t experience on a stick if they're not wrapped (or have grips on top), but it is nice to be able to use the drops without your arms hitting.
Look into Nitto track bars, or Deda Elementi, or 3T, or Eastons if you're feeling ritzy.
Edit: as for the shoulder width, yours sound pretty wide, and I know that Nitto B1243/5 come in a variety of widths--try looking at a fit calculator such as the one at www.wrenchscience.com to determine the ideal width. Or measure out a mock-up and do some comfort testing.




