If you get this defensive every time you provide incorrect advice and someone points it out, you're in for a long haul. Your Motobecane is Swiss threaded; the Peugeot is almost certainly French. Feel free to correct me on this point if you have additional information.

I'm genuinely interested to see Sheldon's recommendation for threading an ISO bb into a Swiss shell -- can you point us to that particular bb page (there are several)?

Per Sheldon - Using British (ISO) in Swiss shell: 35 mm = 1.378". Shell is slightly larger, thread pitch slightly finer. May seem to fit, but will be loose.

Swiss is the same as French except the fixed cup is reversed.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribshee...mbrackets.html

no, I can't find the page, and no it was just a paragraph and I'm not in the mood to search for a half hour just to appease your meaningless ass.

oh, and thats not defensive there grouchy boy, thats called humor (which you apparently have no sense of) defensive is when I stick your silly ass one in the mouth for being a dickhead. want my address?

but all that aside, why did a shimano cartridge BB fit into my swiss threaded BB shell then? (and has been that way for about 1000K now) since you seem to know everything about motobecane's

well mr. grumpy?

except mine fit tight as F___K, so either I have slightly damaged threads (they looked perfect and fit the thread gage PERFECTLY)

I dunno, all I know is I have a buttery smooth shimano cartridge BB in my motobecane super mirage, and couldn't be happier since I ride it about 20 miles a day love how smooth it is.

so "they" say you can't fit a sealed BB in a swiss threaded shell, and "they" said chuck yeager would disintegrate when he got to mach 1 too, and they also say I can't get a 125cc motorcycle over 175mph,.........


I don't listen too well anymore, because "they" are usually full of sh_t


(and yes, I'm going to bonneville with my 125cc streamliner in 2010)

Flattery will get you nowhere. Anyhow, it seems you've proven your point with empty threats and solid evidence, including Chuck Yeager.

Back to the OP: Keep the existing cups and change up the spindle if necessary. Consult Sheldon's site for solid info. Good luck.

Have you removed the bottom bracket from the bike since you installed it? I'm betting you got some cross threading action going on, hence the "tightness".

As far as buttery-smooth action, the functionality of the spindle has nothing to with the fit of the cups into the shell. My spare Phil Wood spins silky smooth, but it's still in the box.

Glad this worked for you, but that doesn't negate the fact that the two are incompatible.

You know, you just ruined his day. Now every time he rides his bike he will be afraid his BB is cross threaded. to afraid to remove it and see. Knowing if it is it will never go back together and when the BB dies, the frame and BB will go on CL and passed to some unsuspecting punter, and then we will be blessed with a thread about Stripped BB threads.

Win by TKO.

just because a Peugot is the first thing anyone will find in the trash does NOT mean you must accept and convert it. Keep diggin through dumpsters and find something else

apparently none of you read my sig,....

if it IS in fact cross threaded, (OMG! a .04mm cross thread!! the sky is falling!) when I remove it (later this spring to paint it) I'll just have the BB counterbored, sleeved and re-tapped to standard ISO thread (or a TiG'd helicoil) hell I might just sleeve the sealed BB and re-tap THAT to match the frame (or didn't you ladies ever think of THAT?)

IF you work in a machine shop (thats assuming you HAVE a job), all this costs is a couple of burritos and a beer, dumbass. (and a week of waiting for my turn on the CNC mill)

I do, however appreciate your concern, and no I am not freaking out, fearing that my BB is cross threaded or will disintegrate or "wear out" dude, it's brand spanking new, and I ride about 10K a day, so whats that like 25 years? but thank you for that charming little story, you almost hurted my feeling (ok, no) I am fifty years old, and havent "freaked out" over threading in my entire life (you probably don't own $1200 worth of TiN coated taps and dies, tho)

I'll never sell it so please don't lose any sleep over the fear that "it will end up on cl", hell I'll probably braze some surly or paul track ends on it just to piss you guys off. (and they are pretty cool) I guess you girls don't know how braze? or tap? or anything except assemble? apparently not. I DO

no wonder they warned me about "over there in FG/SS" they are right, most of you are just genuine "F__K-stick-necks" (thanks bobby)

I'd really like to meet you all, seriously if your ever in the santa clara, CA area and would like a fractured jaw, look me up.

in parting I leave you with this: (since apparently there was a "winner")

You might want to stop digging

I converted an 80s Univega from 27" to 700c and the original brakes didn't reach. I replaced them with Tektro R556, which were reasonably priced and could probably reach a MTB wheel.

Which gives you ample time to spend quality time here with us.


EDIT: how do you reconcile that statement with this one:

It was 20 mi a day in post #29. I guess he's tapering for the special olympics.

10K = 10 Kilometers = 6.2 miles

He must really be dialing up the wattage.

ok dickheads,..I pulled the BB today and guess what? it's not cross threaded
not even a tiny bit, in fact the PLASTIC left side cup threads are still perfect as well,...in fact IF it did cross thread don't you morons think the ALUMINUM or PLASTIC cups would strip first, instead of the steel frame??,

I JUST re-installed it and it went in more than halfway, started to tighten a bit, but nothing to make me believe anything was wrong just like the first time.
oh, and I also talked to our CNC lathe operator and he said it would be EASY to turn some new cups for ANY BB to match whatever the frame threads were, so you morons really need to get out of the LBS once in a while and stop trying to pretend you know everything, because you OBVIOUSLY DO NOT

in fact do any of you know why when a cow takes a crap, it comes out in an olive shape?,................see you DON'T KNOW S__T ,.....so shut the F__K up!

so dig this,.....whether I ride 10 or 20 miles a day (who the **** cares if I take the long way some days?) but I am glad you know how to count (nice work there rainman )

so basically you guys are full of CRAP, and I hope NONE of you read my "how to paint a bicycle" post, because NONE of you deserve GREAT how to write up's like that,...in fact I hope most of you end up under a city bus w/ a B.A. of 2.75

Wow. You should ride more than just 6 miles a day. Try it, you'll be much less frustrated. Physical activity is great against depression and whatever the heck mental disease you're suffering from.

Well this thread got pretty stupid.

This is the only vague info I could find about putting a british BB into a swiss shell. I can get a shimano BB for $10 so I am going to at least try it on my moto.

This is from the peugot page linked previously:
"French bottom brackets need to replaced with French bottom brackets only.
Swiss bottom brackets should be replaced with Swiss only. British bottom brackets may fit as the
threading is very close. British cups in a Swiss frame will be a little lose or sloppy as the British thread is a slighly smaller diameter but its also a slightly different pitch. Because of the difference in thread
pitch they may not thread all the way in. Some times they work, sometimes they dont. British bottom
brackets are readily availble at any local bicycle store."

Obviously do as you please. For precisely the reasons listed in that snippet, it would make me uneasy. As long as your original cups are there (I'm assuming it's an adjustable bb), it's easy to repack it and replace the bearings or spindle if necessary.

Regardless, to avoid confusion, it's important to note the OP asked about an early 70's Peugeot. Peugeots were French threaded through the late 70s. In addition to the difference in thread pitch, French and ISO bb shells don't even have the same thread direction -- swapping the spindle is the only time/cost-effective solution.

In regards to the bottom bracket argument, reckon is most likely correct. The only reason for being extremely tough to get in is because while it maybe ISO, the frame isn't threaded far enough for modern cartridge bottom brackets. That was my experience anyway.

I agree, that's the most cost effective solution, if it were a higher quality french bike I'ld suggestlooking into tapping the BB threads to Italian.

BTW, reckon's meltdown was about the funniest train wreck I've seen in a while.

Can anyone point me to the aforemention painting post? It's got to be worth the read.

I think the last bit about B.A.'s is gold. That guys stressin hard. Guess I better not drink because I wouldnt want to make Reckon right...

Edit: heres his painting how to:
https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=385080&highlight=