I just got some new bartape and I don't want to waste it by doing a less-than-perfect job. But all the info around is for drops, so I'm confused. Should I wrap to the inside or the outside, if I start from the end of each horn and work my way back?

Also, my bars have indentations for a brake cable housing to sit on the bar under the tape. I'm not using either one (relax, my front brake is there, i just don't want to wrap the housing under the tape so I can service it without messing the tape), so what should I use as a prosthetic cable housing under the tape to fill out that groove and have a smooth bar to grab?

I wouldnt worry about the bar groove. Wrap from the end of the bar in, and wrap so when you start the loose end of the tape hangs on the outside of the bar, as you would on a pair of drops. Thats how I've done it, though recently I've been using just some sticky cloth tape from a sports store (about 2 dollars for a roll) and loving the thinner feel of the bars.

Yeah, do it the same as drops. Make sure that when your hands twist on the bar (to the outside of each side) that you are tightening the tape wrap, not loosening it. Start from the ends.

well, technically you're supposed to use two pairs of oury's...

i know that feeling well. sadly, i never succeed. post some pics when you're done!

Pro tip: You can wrap the tape in a dry run if you don't peel the backing off.

I used to wrap my bullhorns starting from the ends in the inside-to-outside direction and work my way to the middle. Finish it off with some electrical tape and you're set.

You won't notice the groove is there once you wrap the bars. If you want, you can use a small chunk of tape in the groove to fill it up if you don't have any leftover cable housing.

for some reason the phrase 'pro tip' always makes me chuckle.

anyway, i tend to wrap from the open end toward the stem, in the direction that i tighten the tape when climbing, and finish off with electrical tape. i've seen it done the 'other' way, beginning at the stem and wrapping over the loose end, then finishing with the bar plugs, but i don't know how it holds up over time.

unless you're planning to remove the brake altogether, like if you're switching bar setups, you can still install new cable and adjust the brake if the housing is under the tape. secure it first with electrical tape so it doesn't move around on you, though.

Pro tip = Rent boy?

Ends to stem definitely. I've had great success with wrapping bullhorns when I begin by very tightly wrapping the bars with inside-out electrical tape, then wrapping on the bar tape in the opposite circular direction. Absolutely no sliding or twisting. As a bonus you also avoid having any sticky adhesive on your bars to deal with in between tapings.

Also, please wrap each side in opposing directions so the end result is symmetrical. To do otherwise would be janky.

I was afraid I was gonna **** up my tape job the first time I did it but it turned out surprisingly well. I mean, i'm sure it'll be better the next time, but it really isn't too bad.

You can wrap this way with old style "tape" but for cork, or any of the newer softer stuff, the edges will curl up. Always wrap cork and gel tape starting at the tips and ending towards the stem.

Properly wrapped bars has the tape overlap eachother only where the tape tapers on the edges. If you are careful, you can overlap just the tapered parts and you should end up without a single bump (ot thick clump) anywhere on your bar.

hey man, sorry for hijacking your thread, but, anyone knows the difference between the 42 and 44 size bullhorn?
i know it is for width, but which one is better?
i commute with my bike so should i get a 44 or a 42?
thankx

It all depends on what you like. Current fixy fashion says to go narrower, but you might prefer the wider one. Really you'd have to try both to know for sure.

thank you very much

2cm

i personally prefer "ADVANCED TECHNIQUE".

There is more information in this post than the combined total of the last 3 weeks from this board. Outstanding work everyone.

P.S. Use champs, they are the cool.

As far as 42 vs 44, get the one that fits you best. I believe the way of measuring this is to measure the width of your shoulders, and bam, that's the size of the bar you want.

I personally bought 42's using this system, and while they fit, i feel i would be better served by something like 38-40cm bars. They would not only be more fashionable, but I'd be more comfortable. But that's just me. I suggest grabbing a meter stick and putting your hands where they are the most comfortable.

Really? That's bull****!

I wrapped my bullhorns starting from the center, using Serfas cork tape, and have had no propblems. I realized it was wrong way after I did it, but it has worked just fine for me.

Use a bungee cord to secure the front end to the frame and preferably the bike on a repair stand. This makes bar wrapping so much easier.

+1. your bike has to be still for a good wrap job!

Wrapping bullhorns is for noobs. Man up your hands

I'm no expert and should not be listened to under any circumstances, but personally I don't buy the shoulder width=bar width formula. Like a lot of simple bike fit formulas (e.g. height to seattube length) it seems to be based on rather suspect "old wives' physiology", and it promotes a one size fits all approach that ignores a lot of important variables. I personally see bar width as a tradeoff beween, on the one hand, solid climbing leverage and a well-balanced, Craigesque wide stance (within reason); and on the other hand, improved aerodynamics and a narrow profile that is less likely to catch obstacles. On this basis, the ideal bar width for someone depends on their own riding style and what they are comfortable with, not the distance between their shoulders, circumference of their skull or any other arbitrary fact about their physiology.

Thanks capt. obvious. As with all other formulas, it's a good starting point.