Member
So, I made a post about a concept yesterday...
And...
Well...
I'm not going to get it
I'm starting to look more seriously into IROs now
Everyone is saying that Tony is a great guy who builds great bikes, with great customer service
great great great
One problem, I really dont know the differences between the bikes...
I like the Jamie Roy because I am a fan of thick frames...but
What are the basic breakdowns for each?
Ill be riding all street for fun...or in other words, no velodrome
Thanks a lot guys
And...
Well...
I'm not going to get it
I'm starting to look more seriously into IROs now
Everyone is saying that Tony is a great guy who builds great bikes, with great customer service
great great great
One problem, I really dont know the differences between the bikes...
I like the Jamie Roy because I am a fan of thick frames...but
What are the basic breakdowns for each?
Ill be riding all street for fun...or in other words, no velodrome
Thanks a lot guys
Balls
https://www.irofixedgear.com/index.as...ATS&Category=3
writeups on each frame, what they are made from, made for, geometry, etc
writeups on each frame, what they are made from, made for, geometry, etc
Member
I read that stuff 
And it helped, but it all seems so similar haha
Anyone have any more info? What is best for what etc...
Thanks a lot
And it helped, but it all seems so similar haha
Anyone have any more info? What is best for what etc...
Thanks a lot
Senior Member
I was going to buy an Iro angus frame because I wanted the reynolds tubing but at the time they were out of my size in all frames, so I went with a surly steamroller instead and am very happy. I would get one of the iro's with the reynolds tubing.
Member
cool thanks
Whats the benefit of Reynolds versus like Jamie roy tubing...?
Sorry if that doesnt make sense, im a fixey noob atm
Whats the benefit of Reynolds versus like Jamie roy tubing...?
Sorry if that doesnt make sense, im a fixey noob atm
I Design Stuff
I'm in this exact situation (will be purchasing an IRO, but which one??) so I'll weigh in and pose a question or two to the smart kids on here
The BB drop is something worth looking into.
The Jamie Roy has a 7cm BB drop, meaning that the pedals are closer to the ground than the Mark V (5cm BB drop). This seems to be a concern among some riders here, because you obviously won't be able to coast thru the corners and could possibly clip the ground with the pedal. I don't have any experience and wonder what size cranks those out there run with the Jamie Roy successfully.
The Jamie Roy is aluminum. Supposively that's a much harsher ride than the steel bikes.
The Jamie Roy is more road-bikeish in geometry.
I'm sure some Jamie Roy owners will chime in, and Mark V ones too.
The BB drop is something worth looking into.
The Jamie Roy has a 7cm BB drop, meaning that the pedals are closer to the ground than the Mark V (5cm BB drop). This seems to be a concern among some riders here, because you obviously won't be able to coast thru the corners and could possibly clip the ground with the pedal. I don't have any experience and wonder what size cranks those out there run with the Jamie Roy successfully.
The Jamie Roy is aluminum. Supposively that's a much harsher ride than the steel bikes.
The Jamie Roy is more road-bikeish in geometry.
I'm sure some Jamie Roy owners will chime in, and Mark V ones too.
Member
Hopefully 
Well, the concept was a 57
And I was bidding on this one from ebay after another deal fell through (located near LA)
And It was a 550 so I went to about 6 I think and then had to go to school
And the bid ended at 8 something at 9 this morning, and I really didnt want to blow that much
So ive decided ill go with a cheaper bike so I have some money to have fun with it and customize it etc etc
Well, the concept was a 57
And I was bidding on this one from ebay after another deal fell through (located near LA)
And It was a 550 so I went to about 6 I think and then had to go to school
And the bid ended at 8 something at 9 this morning, and I really didnt want to blow that much
So ive decided ill go with a cheaper bike so I have some money to have fun with it and customize it etc etc
Sauce
Yeah, I figured that was the one you were talking about.
My Mark V is an awesome everyday bike. Semi-road geometry, and a higher BB. great frame for the money. The sizes do run a bit small however, based on the higher BB.
Mark V is more of a fixed gear style frame. (No fender eyelets.. smaller tire clearance etc...)
The Roy is alum... which is stiffer but will give you a harsher ride. Steel is much forgiving on the streets.
My Mark V is an awesome everyday bike. Semi-road geometry, and a higher BB. great frame for the money. The sizes do run a bit small however, based on the higher BB.
Mark V is more of a fixed gear style frame. (No fender eyelets.. smaller tire clearance etc...)
The Roy is alum... which is stiffer but will give you a harsher ride. Steel is much forgiving on the streets.
Senior Member
I love my Jamie Roy for a knock around bike. I dont have to worry about salt and sand ruining the frame. It isnt terribly heavy. Pretty good tire clearance. Stock fork blows.
here's what my boss has to say about frame materials:
Quote:
December 6. 2007 'the frame material world'
Larry
I really like the idea of the Cannondale Recumbent, but I just discovered it was Aluminum, so I won't be getting it.
I am so sorry to have wasted your time.
-------
No waste at all
I'm up to almost TWO chapters in my forthcoming book about customers and frame materials.
The topic is also covered in the '"perception" chapter.
After 38 years of serving cyclists, 53,000 bike sales, two thousand graduates from my classes, and field assignments all over the planet I have run across some others that let the materials of which a bike frame is made influence their decision.
Because talk is not just cheap any more, it's very easy to get too much and for people to feel the way they do about certain metals, plastics, composites, steel alloys, and classic materials like bamboo.
With careful and compassionate embrace and coaching, many of those who had been affected with material "fear" (false evidence appearing real) let down their guard and made their decision based upon objective trial and test riding. Invariably people that afford themselves test rides and use objective influences are the ones that make the better decisions.
While my aluminum frames and bicycles date back to the 1940's, the current boom started in the late 1970's.
While pro level high quality domestic frames by Klein, Durham, and HiE took a certain elite group by storm, they were still considered exotic, boutique machines. In 1983 Cannondale took Aluminum into the mainstream and the rest is history.
Soon aluminum became a buzzword and the Asians took advantage of the American desire.
The variety was astounding.
Some of them were using what appeared to be lawn chair tubing. While many if these "wannabe" frames were lacking in performance compared to their wider-tubed counterparts, surprisingly failures were rare.
Famous builders like France's Vitus and Italy's Alan began making their legendary aluminum bikes that would be noteworthy in the Tour and other World class events for decades.
Fast forward to the 21st century. The bikes that are coming from those countries whose exquisitely-made frames we coveted for years are mainly the fat tube, bubble-gum welded styles that we started sending them 20 years ago.
While I have what might arguably be the world's largest collection of classic lugged steel frames and bikes and maintain a fondness and deep appreciation for those over the newer wave machines, I encourage objective decisions, like politics, made on individual parameters and performance.
Aluminum framed bikes can be as different from each other and as they can be from bikes of other materials.
I and other experienced experts would no sooner want to own or ride a bike because of the material of which it was made as we would avoid one for such reasons.
Quality, integrity, and especially the characteristics of the ride - comfort, handling, and performance efficiency- are among the best decision- making criteria.
We are far more wary of poor workmanship than the consideration of the raw material.
I was the first kid on the block with my bamboo bike last year and I am first (got it just yesterday!) with my new bamboo tandem. And yes, in deference to my whole diatribe, I went against my belief and bought it because of the material. Forgive me, but sometimes my need for novelty and attention get the best of me.
All that said, there is nothing neither bad nor wrong with wanting or avoiding a certain material, but in the event it is the only factor, a review and second chance might be in order.
I'm off to work.
Please keep in touch
Larry Black
bike123.com
December 6. 2007 'the frame material world'
Larry
I really like the idea of the Cannondale Recumbent, but I just discovered it was Aluminum, so I won't be getting it.
I am so sorry to have wasted your time.
-------
No waste at all
I'm up to almost TWO chapters in my forthcoming book about customers and frame materials.
The topic is also covered in the '"perception" chapter.
After 38 years of serving cyclists, 53,000 bike sales, two thousand graduates from my classes, and field assignments all over the planet I have run across some others that let the materials of which a bike frame is made influence their decision.
Because talk is not just cheap any more, it's very easy to get too much and for people to feel the way they do about certain metals, plastics, composites, steel alloys, and classic materials like bamboo.
With careful and compassionate embrace and coaching, many of those who had been affected with material "fear" (false evidence appearing real) let down their guard and made their decision based upon objective trial and test riding. Invariably people that afford themselves test rides and use objective influences are the ones that make the better decisions.
While my aluminum frames and bicycles date back to the 1940's, the current boom started in the late 1970's.
While pro level high quality domestic frames by Klein, Durham, and HiE took a certain elite group by storm, they were still considered exotic, boutique machines. In 1983 Cannondale took Aluminum into the mainstream and the rest is history.
Soon aluminum became a buzzword and the Asians took advantage of the American desire.
The variety was astounding.
Some of them were using what appeared to be lawn chair tubing. While many if these "wannabe" frames were lacking in performance compared to their wider-tubed counterparts, surprisingly failures were rare.
Famous builders like France's Vitus and Italy's Alan began making their legendary aluminum bikes that would be noteworthy in the Tour and other World class events for decades.
Fast forward to the 21st century. The bikes that are coming from those countries whose exquisitely-made frames we coveted for years are mainly the fat tube, bubble-gum welded styles that we started sending them 20 years ago.
While I have what might arguably be the world's largest collection of classic lugged steel frames and bikes and maintain a fondness and deep appreciation for those over the newer wave machines, I encourage objective decisions, like politics, made on individual parameters and performance.
Aluminum framed bikes can be as different from each other and as they can be from bikes of other materials.
I and other experienced experts would no sooner want to own or ride a bike because of the material of which it was made as we would avoid one for such reasons.
Quality, integrity, and especially the characteristics of the ride - comfort, handling, and performance efficiency- are among the best decision- making criteria.
We are far more wary of poor workmanship than the consideration of the raw material.
I was the first kid on the block with my bamboo bike last year and I am first (got it just yesterday!) with my new bamboo tandem. And yes, in deference to my whole diatribe, I went against my belief and bought it because of the material. Forgive me, but sometimes my need for novelty and attention get the best of me.
All that said, there is nothing neither bad nor wrong with wanting or avoiding a certain material, but in the event it is the only factor, a review and second chance might be in order.
I'm off to work.
Please keep in touch
Larry Black
bike123.com
Utilitarian Boy
I have a 59 cm Mark V which fits like a 57. It is great because the BB height is nice and high along with being able to fit big tires on it (A VERY BIG + if you intend to make it an all weather bike) I can fit 32mm tires on it easy and am thinking about trying out 35mm just because I want to see if it's possible. I was looking at the Angus but I was looking for an all black bike. Also the fact that a Mark V is so versatile allowing it to be both fixed and singlespeed is an added bonus where the Angus doesn't have a rear brake hole. Sure it's a heavy frameset (due to the fork being just as heavy as only the frame) but you're looking at a really solid bike that you won't have to worry about too much. Overall it seems, to me, the Mark V is the best bet for all around use while being a comfy track bike as well.
The Angus looks really nice and if I were to get another frame, I think I'd go for it myself. I don't know if the tubing feel will be a big difference but weight may be noticed. I'd turn it into a "nice" bike.
The Jamie is a really nice bike too but full aluminum is really sucky on long rides. I think the Jamie is best suited as an artillery bike since it can do all. I think of it as the "touring" frame of track bikes. It can fit up to 38mm tires with room for fenders.
Mind you I have no experience with the Jamie or Angus but I hope that helps ya out.
Here's how mine is set up with 32mm tires (it's fixed not SS):
Space in the rear
Front space
The Angus looks really nice and if I were to get another frame, I think I'd go for it myself. I don't know if the tubing feel will be a big difference but weight may be noticed. I'd turn it into a "nice" bike.
The Jamie is a really nice bike too but full aluminum is really sucky on long rides. I think the Jamie is best suited as an artillery bike since it can do all. I think of it as the "touring" frame of track bikes. It can fit up to 38mm tires with room for fenders.
Mind you I have no experience with the Jamie or Angus but I hope that helps ya out.
Here's how mine is set up with 32mm tires (it's fixed not SS):
Space in the rear
Front space
Sir Fallalot
Quote:
Wow. That quote was amusing and interesting and at the same time totally useless.Originally Posted by bward1028
here's what my boss has to say about frame materials:
The Man
I just bought the Mark V pro. I haven't riden it yet, It is at the powder coaters, but I will give you my opinion on what I have experienced so far.
All the frames have the same geometry, except the Angus has a threaded 1" head tube. The fork is EXTREMELY heavy. Almost weighs as much as the frame. The difference between the Mark V and the Pro, is the brake guides and the rear brake drilling. The rear track ends are kind of funky. They sort of go on the inside of the tubing, and it is a turn off. You can bar spin! Now I have to learn to bar spin! But overall, it feels like a good solid bike, and they are cheap enough to buy and powder coat (at least that was my draw)
All the frames have the same geometry, except the Angus has a threaded 1" head tube. The fork is EXTREMELY heavy. Almost weighs as much as the frame. The difference between the Mark V and the Pro, is the brake guides and the rear brake drilling. The rear track ends are kind of funky. They sort of go on the inside of the tubing, and it is a turn off. You can bar spin! Now I have to learn to bar spin! But overall, it feels like a good solid bike, and they are cheap enough to buy and powder coat (at least that was my draw)
tarck bike.com exile
the mark v is the most black metal bike i have encountered yet.
i say go for it if you're kvlt enough to handle it.
i say go for it if you're kvlt enough to handle it.
Senior Member
Quote:
I wouldn't say that... I think it does well making the point that you can just simply judge a frame on if it is steel or aluminum. Other factors like geometry can play just as big a role (if not bigger) in the ride quality of the frame. Case in point... I owned two NJS frames, own a couple of aluminum track frames, and a tigp-welded steel one. The two NJS frames were by far the harshest rinding out of the bunch. The aluminum frames (both same model) definitely feel stiffer under load but at the same time have a more positive ride. The tig welded (and double butted) steel frame is the smoothest riding of the bunch but not as snappy either.Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops
Wow. That quote was amusing and interesting and at the same time totally useless.
I have sold countless low end cro-mo and aluminum track frames and to be honest they all have a pretty harsh ride but none of the good stiffness of a higher quality frame. But you get what you pay for... A high-end frame is going to ride better than a bare knuckle or soma, which is going to ride better than a surly, which is going to ride better than an IRO or brassknuckle... that's just life.
But back to the OP... I have ridden all the IRO fixed gear frames and out of the bunch I would pick the Mark V or Angus if for no other reason than the finish quality of the dropouts and the design of the fork crown is 1000 times nicer than that of the Jamie Roy.
gridlock junky
i got a mark v --rides great for street... mark v pro is what i'd get now & powdercoat it
aluminum is harsh--even w/a carbon fork. save it for the races or the tarck. like that cervelo dual down there V is aluminum and it rides streets HARSH
aluminum is harsh--even w/a carbon fork. save it for the races or the tarck. like that cervelo dual down there V is aluminum and it rides streets HARSH
Member
Thanks for all the responses guys
The mark v is nice, as is the angus...
Well, what other bikes would you guys recommend?
New or used
Im hoping to keep it under $600
Thanks a lot
The mark v is nice, as is the angus...
Well, what other bikes would you guys recommend?
New or used
Im hoping to keep it under $600
Thanks a lot
Senior Member
Clearly, you should go with bamboo.
Seriously, though, I have a group buy IRO (with a carbon fork) and like it.
Seriously, though, I have a group buy IRO (with a carbon fork) and like it.
Sir Fallalot
Quote:
I have sold countless low end cro-mo and aluminum track frames and to be honest they all have a pretty harsh ride but none of the good stiffness of a higher quality frame. But you get what you pay for... A high-end frame is going to ride better than a bare knuckle or soma, which is going to ride better than a surly, which is going to ride better than an IRO or brassknuckle... that's just life.
I enjoy how the guy contradicts himself all at once. "Yeah, I said that but now I'm actually doing the opposite so bite me."Originally Posted by bradenCBC
I wouldn't say that... I think it does well making the point that you can just simply judge a frame on if it is steel or aluminum. Other factors like geometry can play just as big a role (if not bigger) in the ride quality of the frame. Case in point... I owned two NJS frames, own a couple of aluminum track frames, and a tigp-welded steel one. The two NJS frames were by far the harshest rinding out of the bunch. The aluminum frames (both same model) definitely feel stiffer under load but at the same time have a more positive ride. The tig welded (and double butted) steel frame is the smoothest riding of the bunch but not as snappy either.I have sold countless low end cro-mo and aluminum track frames and to be honest they all have a pretty harsh ride but none of the good stiffness of a higher quality frame. But you get what you pay for... A high-end frame is going to ride better than a bare knuckle or soma, which is going to ride better than a surly, which is going to ride better than an IRO or brassknuckle... that's just life.