jimhoff

Hello Bike Forum members,

I disassembled my older 10 speed bike to repaint it and in the process decided that it would be a good idea to turn it into a fixed-gear bicycle. I understand that I could get a track hub and such for it, but I'm going to try to use the original wheel and hub to keep the price down. I've read some very good articles on the subject of conversion and even some threads on this message board but my questions haven't been fully answered. I'm not entirely sure if I need a new back gear cog, or if I can remove all but one from the back wheel and the freewheel to achieve the same thing.

Along with this, I'm unsure if I can remove all the gears but one at the crank and use these two original gears to power my bike. There's also the issue of which gear sizes I need which I haven't fully determined. Would anyone mind enlightening me on this subject?

Thanks.

okay

you should find some non-internet advice on making a fixed wheel (suicide hub), such as someone knowledgeable to show you how to do it, because, if done incorrectly, suicide hubs can be very dangerous

bigbadwimp

Suicide hubs are fine as long as you run a brake.

okay

yeah but a lot of fixed riders dont run brakes, so i was just giving him a heads up in case he decides against rocking some brakes

jimhoff

I'm of the opinion that breaks are a must, especially on the set-up I'm envisioning where it's not a proper track hub.

bigbadwimp

Yes, go with that thought.

hazylines

Surly Fixxer. it removes your freewheel and adds a space for a fixed cog. Its also removable if you'd like to take it off.

bigbadwimp

Stop being so ridiculous. Sheesh.

Sammyboy

Fixxer only works on a cassette hub, which this probably isn't.

Nickle

Is this 10 speed a Ross model, blue in color and in “fairly” good shape? If so, there's some people who want to speak to you...

queerpunk

a track hub uses a reverse-threaded lockring which, when properly installed, prevents backpressure on the pedals/cranks from unscrewing the cog. you can use a hub without a reverse-threaded lockring, but you should be careful how much backpressure you apply - if you apply any. you can rely on a brake to stop and be perfectly confident.

you'll need to buy a track cog. they come in 1/8" and 3/32" widths. if you get a 1/8" wide cog, you will need a 1/8" wide chain.

if you go the "suicide hub" route, you will need to find a bottom bracket lockring. this will screw on to the threads of the hub, after you've screwed the track cog on tight. it's a bit of added security. red locktite on the threads will add some additional security.

reptar douglass

conversion kits and all that are always trouble to the newbie rider.
i know you don't want to hear this.. but you could probably just buy a 27"fixed wheel with a cog and lockring on it if you check all your lbs for only like 70.
i found one a year ago.. and i know my lbs said they could just order them if there not in stock.
saves you a lot of work, plus it's much lighter and safer that an old converted wheel/hub.

Build your own

I'd say with it's pricetag the fixxer is only usefull to convert something highend like a discwheel or something.You can get a formula laced up to your rim for that price.

jimhoff

So you suggest I get something like this https://cgi.ebay.com/New-Fixed-gear-r...QQcmdZViewItem

and then get a lockring and cog. I understand what the 27 means, but what does the 27x1 1/4 mean in the description?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Build your own

Thats the kind of wheel you want to look for.The 1 1/4 is the width.27" is ok and would be a good match with your old frontwheel(also 27" i assume)but be aware that it can be somewhat difficult to find high end tires in 27".700C would be better.Cosmetics aside(700c is 8 mm smaller than 27") it's no problem to run 700c in the rear and keep the 27" in the front.

operator

No they're not. Please spend the $ and buy a proper real wheel.

operator

4mm at the rim, which is most important for brake reach when doing 27" -> 700c

bigbadwimp

If he runs a brake there's nothing to worry about. If the cog slips it'll just spin off and he'll still be able to brake/stop safely. If he didn't run a brake then he'd have some problems.

operator

I still can't bring myself to recommend suicide hub to a complete beginner.

crushkilldstroy

OK I'm curious. What is this about?

YellowFixedGear

Am I the only one who pays attn. to the news to get this?

queerpunk

a bike found by the NYPD, possibly used by the person who dropped the firework at the recruiting center in Times Square.

jimhoff

I decided to not go the suicide route. I've found a wheelset with a flip flop hub that comes with a 16 tooth cog and a lockring. Do I have to purchase a new cog for the crank? I understand having a mixing old gears with new chains will increase wear. If so, is there any size recommended to go with a 16t rear that will be suitable in a mostly flat town? Thanks for the help so far.

frankstoneline

if you want a new chainring, look into a 42 or 44 with your 16 to start on. But no, you could use your existing chainring if you wanted, probably the inside of the two will give you a decent chainline.