has anyone tried the miche cog/carrier system? if so, what are you thoughts on this: im in search for a cheap, safe, serviceable method of converting rear wheels to fixed without buying a track hub. if the diameter of the carrier was smaller than the flange of the hub, i would think you could weld / jb weld the carrier to the hub allowing swapping of cogs, spoke maintenance, should be safer than bb lockring and would be cheaper & less labor intensive than a hub swap. any thoughts?

I would just get a cheap hub like the Formula and not use the carrier system.

that sounds like a really bad idea. get a track hub and use the carrier.
my only problem is that it's sometimes difficult to get the carrier on the first time.

You know you'd still need a lockring, right?

Overall though, I like mine.

100% bad idea. Using the cog/carrier is no different than running a suicide system. Real fixed gear wheels with real track hubs are cheap now. Don't skimp on the one part that puts the fixed, in 'fixed gear'.

If you want a fast, safer suicide system, start red-loctiting all the cogs and bb lockrings onto suicide hubs you can find.

+1. the lockring is still what holds the cog in place.

thanx guys. for some reason i was picturing something like a 3 speed type carrier with a clamp type lockring.

the difference would be a welded, permanent solution that allowed access to the spokes if needed & the option of different cog sizes. i don't completely trust the red locktite. i've got a few setup like that. i would, however, trust a welded cog or carrier. i have a number of rear wheels im planning on converting, some of which are pretty high end sealed wheelsets, tubulars or vintage matches to the front wheel. a formula rear hub or cheap rear wheel will work with those, but thats not what im looking for. cheap, safe, serviceable, mostly original. smell what im steppin' in?

If they're "pretty high end wheelsets," do you really want to weld them? I guess you should weld a cog into the cog carrier system, but that's a pretty back-asswards solution. A bottom bracket lockring and Loctite will offer you more than enough protection, if you run a brake.

I'm looking at miche's wheelset (https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...il.asp?p=MJXTW) -- if I don't plan on changing the cog frequently, could I go without the cog carrier, or is it a necessary component?

Hasn't there been instances where a play develops in the cog after a while? I havent' had that happen, but I noticed that the miche cogs wears out a lot faster than the EAI i run with right now. (same drivetrain)
Also, wihtout the lock ring I dont see how the cog would stay on other than the tension from the chain. Anything less that completely taught would eventually pull the cog out of the carrier wouldn't it?

I've been using Miche cogs (with a real track hub) for some time now and have no complaints. I haven't noticed any play developing, nor does the cog appear to be wearing any faster than any other cog I've ever used. Overall I think its a pretty good system.

you guys ****ing scare the piss out of me every time you think you have a good idea.

save some money and do it correctly. it will save you money in the long run in both bike parts and human parts.

for the miche cog system you need to have the lockring on in order to keep the cog on the carrier. chain tension or lack there of will only help the cog come off of the carrier.

i have this system on two of my wheel sets. both are over 2 seasons old and have no play or excess wear on them compared to other cogs. one is going on its 3rd full season of daily commuting the other is on its second season of racing at the velodrome. with enough preventative maintenance and proper install this system will last as long as any regular cog.

XVX
jon