What kind of chains does everyone use/recommend?

Yesterday, I was taking off from a stoplight and my SRAM chain (PC-99) exploded with no warning. I would have just fixed it, but when it separated, it wrapped itself around the rear cog and separated at another spot resulting in two chunks of chain.

Fortunately, I was only 500yds away from the nearest bikeshop. I bought a high-end shimano chain (one down from the dura-ace model) for replacement.

I had *maybe* 800-1000 miles on this drivetrain. I run brakeless so reliability is important.

Should I move from 9 speed stuff to 1/8"?

If you run brakeless I would recommend a decent 1/8" drive type chain. Get the length correct, then use a good masterlink.

If you use a chain tool to drive a rivet in, use the unused factory one that comes with some new chains. I don't recommend reusing a link that has been driven out. You can probably get away with it but I do not like to take the risk.

I currently use a KMC Inox stainless steel (~$15) and a PC-7($20). The ss masterlink crapped out so I got a new one and it works great again (please read earlier link about masterlinks).

I have had two misshaps this year with chains on my fixed. It sucks large so buy a good chain!!!!

biff- just curious, but what kind of maintenance sched. did you run on that chain? Did the chain separate at the powerlink?

I've had my SRAM for 1000+ miles (maintenanced every 1-2weeks) with no problems. Should I bring a trauma kit next ride? hope you weren't hurt.

I usually buy cheap $6 bmx 1/8" chains and just replace them once a year.

George

Virtually all chains are more than strong to use on a propoerly aligned single speed or fixie. In the early 80's, some top level track riders used Dura Ace 10 chains, which were smaller and much weaker than any chain commonly used on bicycles today. The only problem is connecting them as strongly as the rest of the chain is made. Super narrow 9s chains are only as strong as whatever joining system is used. For single speeds I use inexpensive KMC chains. The KMC website gives dimensions and specs dfor all their chains. I just pick the one with the longest pins, which results in more extention past the sideplates and an easier chain to join.

i am using the Sram 99 i think in 1/8 it was 10 bucks and i do not use a master link, am i in good shape?

Well, this is my first fix, and I figured that the powerlink would soon come apart when I slowed down/skidded/etc, so I didn't use it. I cleaned and re-lubed it once a week, sometimes more if I rode in the rain. I'm a chain clean freak.

Since I was just getting up to speed, stopping was not a problem. Would have totally sucked if it happened while braking.

ditto that..

I've had some probs with my chain this year too.. wore my damn shoes down from all my flinstone style stops I was lucky that it never happened at a bad time... only one of those was my chain actually braking..the others were from me being lazy and not tensioning the chain often enough

you didn't use the powerlink, but you cleaned once a week? did you buy new pins each time you broke the chain apart? or do you clean on bike?

I'm a chain facist too. powerlinks rule!

Cleaned on the bike, with the bike. I never break a chain to clean it.

Then you didn't really clean it...

I could be wrong, but wouldn't you wear a 3/32" 8/9sp chain alot faster with a 1/8" drive train? I know even getting my chain wip to work with my cog which is 1/8" does not work perfectly since the chainwhip has a 3/32" chain..

I use a PC-1 chain , and the Miche track chain on my other bike. Since I run 1/8" drive train I figured I should run a 1/8" chain. Both are definately cheaper then a high end shimano chain, and being wider then a 9sp I figure will probably last a bit longer.

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific when I said 'drivetrain'. I meant to ask if moving to 1/8" chain/cog/chainwheel would result in any improved robustness. Right now, I have 3/32" chain/cog/chainwheel.

Oh okie that makes more sense... why not use a 6-7-8sp chain instead of the 9sp ones you are using?

I know the PC-99 you orginaly used is more designed to be light then logevity, the 6-8sp are a bit wider so should be a bit stronger.

Yep...same here.... Never had a problem doing that for 30 years....

George

Some guys run a 1/8 chain with 3/32 chainwheels. I use a 3/32 chain because I have a boxful of 3/32 cogs and chainrings. The issue isn't so much the width of the chain rollers, it's that 9S chains are made with rivets that barely extend past the outer plates. To make them strong enough, the rivets need to be peened over (flattened). If you press one of those pins out, the plates are damaged enough that the same pin cannot be used to re-join the chain. That's why 9S chains all have some masterlink or special pin to join them. The best solution for single speed/fixed is a 1/8 chain (which will have longer, less peened rivets) or if you use 3/32 cogs, use a wider (outside dimension) 3/32 chain. The wider chain is cheaper, but that's just a bonus. You find chain dimensions at the KMC wedsite. If you want to spend a lot on your fixie, you can get a NOS Regina ORO chain on Ebay, or convert the whole thing to Japanese Keirin spec stuff.
But the short answer is, a 1/8 drive train will wear a little better than a 3/32, but a 3/32 is more than strong enough provided that you use a cheap chain.