Contest: Design a Cog Removal Tool
#26
Get Down In The Up Town
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https://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...35-16878-40112
im gonna go suggest the strap wrenches again these are 14 bucks for a set of 2. just open it up put around the hub body make sure its facing the right way the tighten the strap down and hold. grab your lockring tool or your chain whip and give her a twist. repeat for other side. not going to put any extra strain on the hub body or anything.
hell if i can take loctighted and under pressure c02 and HPA tank regs/valves off with those im pretty sure a lock ring and cog will come off with them
im gonna go suggest the strap wrenches again these are 14 bucks for a set of 2. just open it up put around the hub body make sure its facing the right way the tighten the strap down and hold. grab your lockring tool or your chain whip and give her a twist. repeat for other side. not going to put any extra strain on the hub body or anything.
hell if i can take loctighted and under pressure c02 and HPA tank regs/valves off with those im pretty sure a lock ring and cog will come off with them
#28
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phils wont twist like everyone says. richie ditta has a twisted radial pattern on his phil that pulls clockwise on one side and counter on the other. its on a front hub and that hub hasnt twisted in two yet and that guy beats his bikes up pretty good.
#31
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Threading the spokes through the holes on both hubs may help. I won't be able to get spokes in all the holes though and having the spokes all in one group probably won't give me enough to grip in a vise to prevent the whole hub from twisting. Though I do like the idea when combined with the blocks of wood with the holes drilled in them. Having a few spokes going through both flanges may stabalize things.
#34
J.A.M
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the guy who has this rear high flange phil is loving this thread also.! top notch work gang
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The Bianchi That Could
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#35
antisocialite
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removing one cog with two chain whips and then relacing is a perfectly good option.
solution that does not require relacing, special tools, etc.:
-bolt the hub into the dropouts of your frame, with the bike upside down.
-use two chain whips (or one whip and rotafix) to get one of the cogs off
-remove hub from frame, take out unscrewed cog and on that same side screw on a lockring.
-bolt hub back into dropouts.
-tighten lockring til it's as tight as it'll go and then use the chainwhip to unscrew other cog.
you then have a hub with no cogs and 1 lockring. easy to rebuild the wheel, then easy to remove the lockring.
i've done it, it works.
solution that does not require relacing, special tools, etc.:
-bolt the hub into the dropouts of your frame, with the bike upside down.
-use two chain whips (or one whip and rotafix) to get one of the cogs off
-remove hub from frame, take out unscrewed cog and on that same side screw on a lockring.
-bolt hub back into dropouts.
-tighten lockring til it's as tight as it'll go and then use the chainwhip to unscrew other cog.
you then have a hub with no cogs and 1 lockring. easy to rebuild the wheel, then easy to remove the lockring.
i've done it, it works.
#36
yeahh, becky
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removing one cog with two chain whips and then relacing is a perfectly good option.
solution that does not require relacing, special tools, etc.:
-bolt the hub into the dropouts of your frame, with the bike upside down.
-use two chain whips (or one whip and rotafix) to get one of the cogs off
-remove hub from frame, take out unscrewed cog and on that same side screw on a lockring.
-bolt hub back into dropouts.
-tighten lockring til it's as tight as it'll go and then use the chainwhip to unscrew other cog.
you then have a hub with no cogs and 1 lockring. easy to rebuild the wheel, then easy to remove the lockring.
i've done it, it works.
solution that does not require relacing, special tools, etc.:
-bolt the hub into the dropouts of your frame, with the bike upside down.
-use two chain whips (or one whip and rotafix) to get one of the cogs off
-remove hub from frame, take out unscrewed cog and on that same side screw on a lockring.
-bolt hub back into dropouts.
-tighten lockring til it's as tight as it'll go and then use the chainwhip to unscrew other cog.
you then have a hub with no cogs and 1 lockring. easy to rebuild the wheel, then easy to remove the lockring.
i've done it, it works.
Now I feel like I created a Rube Goldberg machine, too.
#37
Memento Mori
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I am wondering why this seems so difficult? i think that we have already found the solution in the strap wrench. I have used these before, as well, and have had great success applying huge force to the tool. that being said they make a few different sizes, look for the biggest one you can find. if you are worried about crushing the body of the hub then put the wrench around the flange. i would suggest mounting the hub in the dropouts of an old frame to keep the hub stable while applying torque to the wrenches. and put the frame in a vice or get a friend to help hold the frame.
edit: the previous post seems like the best idea. oh well
edit: the previous post seems like the best idea. oh well