Define a Good candidate for Fixed/Single speed conversions
05-27-08 | 12:00 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Define a Good candidate for Fixed/Single speed conversions
I'm trying to find out as much information as possible because I don't wanna buy a bike or frame and have it turn out to be a horrible candidate for a conversion.
What are somethings I should look for?
I've seen people say "lugged" frame. What does that mean?
If you could name some common frames that you believe are best for conversions that would be awesome too.
What are somethings I should look for?
I've seen people say "lugged" frame. What does that mean?
If you could name some common frames that you believe are best for conversions that would be awesome too.
05-27-08 | 12:22 AM
#2
Low car diet
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,407
Likes: 4
From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
Please see here: https://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html
05-27-08 | 12:25 PM
#3
.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Look here for hundreds of conversions. https://fixedgeargallery.com/
Lugged bicycle info. here. https://www.terrafermacycles.com/joinery/lugs/lugs.htm
The Sheldon Brown link provided by Jive Turkey will get you started. After you read that, come back and use the Search function before asking questions as it will save you a lot of abuse.
Good luck!
Lugged bicycle info. here. https://www.terrafermacycles.com/joinery/lugs/lugs.htm
The Sheldon Brown link provided by Jive Turkey will get you started. After you read that, come back and use the Search function before asking questions as it will save you a lot of abuse.
Good luck!
05-27-08 | 12:55 PM
#4
surly old man
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 44
From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Must have:
-horizontal rear dropouts
-freewheel rear hub (unless you are buying a new wheelset)
Really should have:
-forged dropouts
-a decent 3 piece crank with bolt-on rings, so you can mess with chainline.
Nice to have:
-decent lugged, cro-mo, butted frame
-decent aluminum wheels (unless you are going to buy a new wheelset)
-decent alumimum components (post, stem, bars, etc)
-horizontal rear dropouts
-freewheel rear hub (unless you are buying a new wheelset)
Really should have:
-forged dropouts
-a decent 3 piece crank with bolt-on rings, so you can mess with chainline.
Nice to have:
-decent lugged, cro-mo, butted frame
-decent aluminum wheels (unless you are going to buy a new wheelset)
-decent alumimum components (post, stem, bars, etc)
__________________
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
--------------------------
SB forever
05-27-08 | 01:39 PM
#5
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,640
Likes: 0
From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
"lugged" frames aren't better or worse than any other bike frame. It's just a construction method. And I've seen some pretty freaking horrible lugged frames (low end older panasonics, centurions, raleighs, etc).
Just about any frame that has horizontal dropouts and a columbus or reynolds sticker on it will be good.
First priority though: FIT FIT FIT FIT
Just about any frame that has horizontal dropouts and a columbus or reynolds sticker on it will be good.
First priority though: FIT FIT FIT FIT
05-27-08 | 03:39 PM
#6
n00b
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: nice Raleigh roadbike and an S&M BMX
Hmm, that's a very informative link there and it makes a good case; however, don't let it scare you off of good quality TIG welded frames. If you're looking for cheap but reliable it seems that tons of people love the Kilo TT/Windsor Hour, as for getting a frame for a conversion the thing you need is a dropout that will allow you to tension the chain by moving the wheel (there are other ways around this but I don't like them) i.e. something with horizontal dropouts or track fork ends. If you don't know what those terms mean just google them and click on images and you will be availed with great knowledge. Also keep in mind that there are two different spacings for your rear wheel, either will work fine but keep that in mind when you buy/build/get a hold of a rear wheel.
