3TTT Quill Stem
06-09-08 | 12:45 PM
#1
Thread Starter
1, 2, 3 and to the 4X
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 425
Likes: 34
From: Ashland, OR
3TTT Quill Stem
Still building a single speed. I already have some 3TTT drop bars with a 26.0 clamp. I was told by a coop employee to find a quill stem that's long enough that you can't see the front hub when looking from directly above the quill stem. He suggested 100mm in length. Also mentioned was that 25.4 clamp stems will work with 26.0 bars. Is this true? Would a 90mm stem suffice?
TIA,
Wheels
TIA,
Wheels
06-09-08 | 12:48 PM
#2
aka mattio
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,586
Likes: 58
Bikes: yes
that "make the front hub" disappear thing is a decent rule of thumb, but ultimately you're going to have to figure out what's comfortable.
if you're asking if a 90 will suffice because you have one on hand, try it and see if you feel cramped or if you feel okay. we can't tell you what's going to be comfortable.
some 25.4 stems can be spread to accept 26 bars, but i prefer not doing that. stems that have removable faceplates can accommodate a decent range of bar sizes. most of my bikes are threadless.
if you're asking if a 90 will suffice because you have one on hand, try it and see if you feel cramped or if you feel okay. we can't tell you what's going to be comfortable.
some 25.4 stems can be spread to accept 26 bars, but i prefer not doing that. stems that have removable faceplates can accommodate a decent range of bar sizes. most of my bikes are threadless.
06-09-08 | 12:53 PM
#3
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,640
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From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Best to buy the stem that fits your bars. Squeezing or stretching aluminum doesn't always have the best results, and I wouldn't want to bet my life on it.
06-10-08 | 05:28 AM
#6
The 'blocking front hub' is a rule of thumb as mentioned, but ends up being useless when fitting on compact frames.
If your quill has a removable faceplate, you can probably get it to work with the 26.0 bars. By 'work' I mean tighten the faceplate bolts down enough to force it to 'fit' in.
If your quill has a removable faceplate, you can probably get it to work with the 26.0 bars. By 'work' I mean tighten the faceplate bolts down enough to force it to 'fit' in.
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06-10-08 | 05:56 AM
#7
jack of one or two trades
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,640
Likes: 0
From: Suburbia, CT
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
06-10-08 | 07:06 AM
#8
The angles are different. A 52cm + 54cm frame may be a 'M', or a 54cm + 56cm may be a 'M' - either way, you're taking two frame sizes and adjusting the angles for a "better all-around fit". If someone really rides a 52cm, and is on a 'M', angles such as ST and HT are different, while apparently "maintaining" an equivalent TT length. Often times, you're also combining sizes, so the hub will not be completely blocked out. It's merely giving the "equivalent" TT length in that size.
Fit will come down to feel and preference. I had a Trek 2500 with a setback seatpost and 90mm stem, I moved to a 0-setback post and 110mm stem (keeping the same overall length) and found it far more comfortable.
Fit will come down to feel and preference. I had a Trek 2500 with a setback seatpost and 90mm stem, I moved to a 0-setback post and 110mm stem (keeping the same overall length) and found it far more comfortable.
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saddle sores bike club | prepare to be rode
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Last edited by idiq; 06-10-08 at 07:15 AM.
