Sizing question: Search was used
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
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Sizing question: Search was used
I am looking to get a Kilo TT or a Kilo TT Pro (if i can wait that long).
I am about 5'11'' (and i have heard people on this site riding a 53cm)
Standover height (without shoes)= 33''
I have basically really long legs and my arms are pretty long as well. I want to know if i should be riding a 53cm or a 57cm? What do you guys think?
I am about 5'11'' (and i have heard people on this site riding a 53cm)
Standover height (without shoes)= 33''
I have basically really long legs and my arms are pretty long as well. I want to know if i should be riding a 53cm or a 57cm? What do you guys think?
#2
If you have long legs, then you have a relatively shorter torso and I would get the 53cm, as you can always adjust the vertical height easily (pull the seatpost out more). The length of the top-tube you cannot adjust, although you could adjust the total length by getting a smaller stem, doing so though will not make the steering as precise as a 100mm or 110mm stem. The difference in the length of the TT between the two frames is pretty significant at 40mm. At the same time though, you will have a further drop to the handlebars, so there is a tradeoff involved. You could always amend that though by getting a stem with a higher rise.
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saddle sores bike club | prepare to be rode
saddle sores bike club | prepare to be rode
#3
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What will the main differences between the Kilo and the Kilo Pro be? I know geometry is one, but what about parts and such? Also is bikes direct supposed to have any other good track/fixed gear bikes coming out worth thinking about over the KILO? I heard something about the Jury but that is a SS and i want a track fixed gear. Thanks
#4
I am 5-11" with 32.5" true inseam and I ride bikes with 56cm effective top tube. You can't simply size a bike on seattube height since that doesn't take into account the slope of a top tube and it's effect of sizing.
The best metric is effective top tube. You should be looking at 55cm-57cm top tube bikes, test ride and go from there.
(BTW, I was professionally sized and I am a roadie where proper sizing matters more than cruising around town.)
The best metric is effective top tube. You should be looking at 55cm-57cm top tube bikes, test ride and go from there.
(BTW, I was professionally sized and I am a roadie where proper sizing matters more than cruising around town.)
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 292
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I am 5-11" with 32.5" true inseam and I ride bikes with 56cm effective top tube. You can't simply size a bike on seattube height since that doesn't take into account the slope of a top tube and it's effect of sizing.
The best metric is effective top tube. You should be looking at 55cm-57cm top tube bikes, test ride and go from there.
(BTW, I was professionally sized and I am a roadie where proper sizing matters more than cruising around town.)
The best metric is effective top tube. You should be looking at 55cm-57cm top tube bikes, test ride and go from there.
(BTW, I was professionally sized and I am a roadie where proper sizing matters more than cruising around town.)
#8
freelance gangster
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 377
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From: Los Angeles, CA
hour and kilo are roughly the same, buy the kilo if you think it looks $50 better than the hour. I think most people on the boards lean toward the kilo, but imo, that's mostly because that's what most other people on the boards lean toward. As far as best bang for the buck, i think any bikes direct SS/FG has are great deals. I own a Kilo and have a Dawes SST on the way.
#9
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I just don't know what/how much i'll be upgrading on the Kilo and if it would just be worth it to get an IRO Angus. I know for sure i'd probably switch out the stem, bars, seat, seatpost, wheels, crank (all eventually) so i don't know what to do. I meen i have the money for an IRO, but like the idea that a Kilo is only $350 shipped.





