Newbie question/clarification re: geometry
#1
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
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From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Newbie question/clarification re: geometry
Hey all, I've been reading a ton on threads here in the past couple weeks as I research fg bikes. I'm starting to get a handle on things, but I still need some clarification on the differences between track and road frames/geometry, and which is better for what purpose. And feel free to correct me on any and all of this...that's why I'm posting.
From what I understand, track frames are stiffer, more compact, and less comfortable. Road frames have more give or flex and tend to be more comfortable because of this. It seems like the general recommendation is if you're going to go on a track get a track bike, if you're commuting get a road bike. It's everything in between that's a bit muddy to me. What if I'm doing neither, just riding in the city? I live in Seattle and will primarily be riding within my neighborhood and from one end of the city to the other--maybe the occasional weekend road ride, but nothing long. It seems like a road frame would be more comfortable on the street, but I've seen folks recommend track bikes for street maneuverability. I suspect where this breaks down is personal preference, and it seems like there's a bit of a cult/tradition thing as far as using track bikes for the street, but I don't want to dismiss either option based on that.
Also, I've got a lot of hills around here, and I'm not sure which would be better for hills--stiffer or with some give? The hills are gonna kick my ass for a while, so any help from the frame would be awesome
Lastly, it seems like toe overlap is an important issue if you're weaving in and out of traffic or taking tight corners. Do I understand that correctly? And it's basically track frames that have this issue, because they're more compact, or is it a frame-by-frame thing? I'm also a little confused about tire clearance. I've read elsewhere that some frames/forks don't have enough clearance to do a bar spin. I'm not concerned about bar spins specifically (not quite there yet), but would this restriction mean the front wheel can go 360? And is this an issue with compact track frames, or again a frame-specific thing?
All this may be moot as I've never even ridden a regular road bike, so anything is going to feel different than what I'm used to and I might not really "get" any differences right away. In that vein, it seems track frames are "twitchy"...does that basically mean it's be hard to control as a new rider? I only have mediocre traffic skills at the moment (and yes, I'm getting a brake and will practice before dodging cars).
I'm trying to narrow down my options, because right now I'm pretty much looking at everything out there. I'll also be going all over the place as it is to try bikes out at various LBSs, and if I can eliminate a model or two that would really help.
More questions on the way, I'm sure, but we'll stick to one topic at a time. Thanks!
From what I understand, track frames are stiffer, more compact, and less comfortable. Road frames have more give or flex and tend to be more comfortable because of this. It seems like the general recommendation is if you're going to go on a track get a track bike, if you're commuting get a road bike. It's everything in between that's a bit muddy to me. What if I'm doing neither, just riding in the city? I live in Seattle and will primarily be riding within my neighborhood and from one end of the city to the other--maybe the occasional weekend road ride, but nothing long. It seems like a road frame would be more comfortable on the street, but I've seen folks recommend track bikes for street maneuverability. I suspect where this breaks down is personal preference, and it seems like there's a bit of a cult/tradition thing as far as using track bikes for the street, but I don't want to dismiss either option based on that.
Also, I've got a lot of hills around here, and I'm not sure which would be better for hills--stiffer or with some give? The hills are gonna kick my ass for a while, so any help from the frame would be awesome

Lastly, it seems like toe overlap is an important issue if you're weaving in and out of traffic or taking tight corners. Do I understand that correctly? And it's basically track frames that have this issue, because they're more compact, or is it a frame-by-frame thing? I'm also a little confused about tire clearance. I've read elsewhere that some frames/forks don't have enough clearance to do a bar spin. I'm not concerned about bar spins specifically (not quite there yet), but would this restriction mean the front wheel can go 360? And is this an issue with compact track frames, or again a frame-specific thing?
All this may be moot as I've never even ridden a regular road bike, so anything is going to feel different than what I'm used to and I might not really "get" any differences right away. In that vein, it seems track frames are "twitchy"...does that basically mean it's be hard to control as a new rider? I only have mediocre traffic skills at the moment (and yes, I'm getting a brake and will practice before dodging cars).
I'm trying to narrow down my options, because right now I'm pretty much looking at everything out there. I'll also be going all over the place as it is to try bikes out at various LBSs, and if I can eliminate a model or two that would really help.
More questions on the way, I'm sure, but we'll stick to one topic at a time. Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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for you intended use - any bike will do. Although generally geometry affects handling and how the bike fits, for short trips a "track bike" will pose no problem in comfort, on the same not the "road geometry" will not have a problem handling in traffic.
Toe overlap is not really an issue. You learn to deal with it and it only comes into play at very low speeds. What size bike to you ride? Even with road geo there tends to be some overlap in the smaller sizes. Toe overlap is not a defect in frame design, its not that big of a deal.
I would say go to the bike shop and talk to the person there. Ride several bikes and by the one you like best.
Toe overlap is not really an issue. You learn to deal with it and it only comes into play at very low speeds. What size bike to you ride? Even with road geo there tends to be some overlap in the smaller sizes. Toe overlap is not a defect in frame design, its not that big of a deal.
I would say go to the bike shop and talk to the person there. Ride several bikes and by the one you like best.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
#4
for climbing you want stiff and light, but mainly its gearing and how your cardio endurance is.
bolded for truth.
bolded for truth.
#5
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Toe overlap is not really an issue. You learn to deal with it and it only comes into play at very low speeds. What size bike to you ride? Even with road geo there tends to be some overlap in the smaller sizes. Toe overlap is not a defect in frame design, its not that big of a deal.
I would say go to the bike shop and talk to the person there. Ride several bikes and by the one you like best.
I would say go to the bike shop and talk to the person there. Ride several bikes and by the one you like best.
Thanks very much for the info and advice!
#6
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Heh, I suspected as much. Well, I won't worry about it until I know enough to have an opinion

Thanks!
#8
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Ugh, I know. My friends think I'm crazy. I was walking home last night up a really bad one, watching this poor guy on a geared bike weaving up it barely faster than I was walking. I'm going to start on the easy ones, or at least do the tough ones when no one is around to watch me bail and walk
#9
Huh? You lost me here. I do not find this to be true. Road bikes tend to be more "comfortable" because their geometry is different. With some major exceptions, most track races are considerably shorter than road races, and comfort has never been much of an issue.
#10
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Oh, okay. I'm just repeating what I thought I understood from things I've read, but I figured it wasn't all correct. I guess I pretty much understand things, just didn't word it well. Thanks for the clarification.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,436
Likes: 31
Geometry differences between flavors of road bike really only factor in once you're pushing yourself to your limits of speed, agility, distance or the like.
Also, c'mon, getting it up to your apartment is the least of your worries. I can haul my full-squish up and down no problems. Put your riding gloves on your shoulder if you really need a pad.
It sounds to me like you're over-thinking a bit. There are a lot of bikes out there that would make you really happy.
For example, I go back and forth from a tight carbon bike to a beefy steel cyclocross. Once I'm moving, it's about rolling with what I have, and any 'other options' I could have gone with melt away.
Also, c'mon, getting it up to your apartment is the least of your worries. I can haul my full-squish up and down no problems. Put your riding gloves on your shoulder if you really need a pad.
It sounds to me like you're over-thinking a bit. There are a lot of bikes out there that would make you really happy.
For example, I go back and forth from a tight carbon bike to a beefy steel cyclocross. Once I'm moving, it's about rolling with what I have, and any 'other options' I could have gone with melt away.
Last edited by schnee; 06-25-08 at 03:09 PM.
#12
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.
Geometry differences between flavors of road bike really only factor in once you're pushing yourself to your limits of speed, agility, distance or the like.
Also, c'mon, getting it up to your apartment is the least of your worries. I can haul my full-squish up and down no problems. Put your riding gloves on your shoulder if you really need a pad.
Also, c'mon, getting it up to your apartment is the least of your worries. I can haul my full-squish up and down no problems. Put your riding gloves on your shoulder if you really need a pad.
Yes. It's what I do.
I can't get the bike quite yet, so in my excitement/impatience I'm getting really into the details. I just need to get my butt on a bike, really.
#14
Thread Starter
Cupcake of Destruction
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: clunky, soon-to-be-replaced 15yr old Novara (ugh!) and a sweet Schwinn cruiser I picked up at Burning Man.





