Hi, i've been riding my 56 jury frameset with weinmann dp18s for the last month and have noticed what seems to be a big problem. in order to get a good chainline with the hubs spacing of 120mm the chainring had to be put on the inside of the spider. problem was that the chainring was very close to the chainstay. the chainring i;ve been using has become untrue and now its touching the frame. what are my options for fixing this?

Try a larger chainring?

sounds like you may have been using the wrong BB for your crankset. if you post what BB and what crankset you are runnin', i'm sure we could find/recommend the appropriate spindle length.

i use a 113mm and it seems to be working out pretty good. Although i would like a 110

I had a similar problem. I mounted the chain-ring on the outside of the spider first, but that was too far out. So I moved it to the inside of the spider, but that had it hitting the chainstay. I made it work in the end by placing the chainring inside the spider, then putting a spacer between the drive-side bb cup and the shell.

Mine's a jury (I think, got it from bike island) I"m running a 103mm Sugino BB and not sure about chainline but my bike works

Good info, I'm about to build my Jury and suspect problems using a single track crank/bb setup due to the wide tire clearance on the frame. The chainstay is about 5+mm wider than a normal track frame in that area. Smaller chainring will allow you to push closer to center. The chainstay really flares out wide in that area where the chainring teeth would hit. The cranks may also hit if you have a narrow Q factor.

Similar problem with the earlier Steamrollers. Either use a smaller chainring or live with very close tolerances.

How small does your chainring need to be to put you in the clear?

bummer. there just seems to be many things overlooked on the jury, like the requirement for exxxxxtra long brakes.

This is worrying me now. What cranks have people been using that have worked well with the jury?

After digging around a little and the Jury is essentially a Steamroller, then a 107mm bb width is the desired length. Please don't quote me but after reading up, this is what has found to work on the Steamroller.

There's loads of info on Sheldon's website about chainline in general and spec's on Sprockets and cranks. If your using track hubs the ideal is 42.5mm but you probably have to fudge it on the Jury.

If you wanted to use a White Industries freewheel then you'll have better luck as it is 3mm wider (8.73mm) compare to a Surly Fixed sprocket which is 5.5mm from shoulder (I know apple & oranges).

You just want a very straight line (straight shot) between rear procket and chainring (no offsets 0mm -/+) and at the same time cranks as close together a possible (Q factor) in the ideal world.

end of rant

I'm running a 39 w/ no problems...44 is in the mail.

Not sure about the back, but w/ a 700c wheel, you'll need a 68mm reach on the front. Bike island sells these (in chrome only)

Sugino 103mm RD-48 crank and BB is working for me

thanks scott that's a lot of good info that will ease some people's minds. I'm fully aware of the brake requirements for the front, which isn't bad at all. It is the back brake that is a bit ridiculous.

The good news is that bikeisland is now selling the Fantom Uno frameset in black.

I'm quoting you.

To a point, your BB length is dependent on your cranks, not your frame.

The Jury has the geometry of the steamroller, but is still different in several places. One of which is the shape of the chainstays. In order to accomodate wide tires, a 50T chainring at a 42mm chainline, and adequate heed clearance the chainstays on the steamroller are *heavily manipulated*. They essentially have a double-bend in them and a big dent for chainring clearance. The jury uses almost straight chainstays (probably to save money, or they just didn't think this through like the brake issue) and that's why you're running into this problem.
The solution might just be to get a frambuilder in your area to dent the chainstay a little bit more to add some extra clearance.
If you don't want to do that, then yeah you could go for a wider BB, and bump your chainline out a few mm. But then you'll need to either get a new hub that'll accomodate a wider chainline, or fiddle around with spacers on your rear wheel and redish it.

God, this is so annoying. I haven't built up my frame yet so I'm thinking of returning it. I'm planning to run a 107mm spindle BB with Pake cranks and a 46T chainring. Has anybody else tried this? Should I just order a 38T or a 39T right now?

I'm running the 46T andel crankset with 107mm BB just fine.

I just finished building up my jury. Chainline on frame side is dependent of which combo of cranks and bottom bracket, one given spindle length most will likely not work with a different maker of cranks (examp: Sug. Messengers=103mm, Sug 75's=109mm, Campy=102mm). As mentioned earlier, which spindle length is dependent of which crank you choose. We all want a 42mm chainline in theory. You need to find out what the crank manufacture recommends for spindle length for 42mm chainline. Here's the rub, the chainstays are very wide to accommodate extra wide tires and can interfere with installation of large chainrings with 42m chainline.

I installed cheap Truactiv Enduro track cranks with a 107mm spindle and a 48t ring. It fit's by a #$%^ hair, maybe 1mm max of room with a 42.5mm chainline. So far no problem with rubbing but if there is I will have to change chainrings to a smaller size to increase the gap.

Long story short: Don't use larger than 48t chainrings and find out what spindle you need for your cranks for proper chainline.