Proofide Recipe
09-27-08 | 02:29 PM
#1
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: San Francisco, CA
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Proofide Recipe
Today I picked up a can of 16.00 Proofide from the LBS. I was struck by two things.
1.) This is an incredibly small container (40 grams). It works out to 40 cents per gram.
2.) The ingredients are very simple. There's no "rehydrolized phenlythalimine #18" or other strange chemicals.
So it made me think: Crap you could make this stuff in batches far cheaper than this.
The ingredients (listed on the can):
Tallow - which can be purchased under the name "Neatsfoot Oil" from any shoe store or in bigger quantities and cheaper at any equestrian center. Sheldon wrote an article about using neatsfoot oil to break in your new brooks saddle.
Cod Oil - which can be purchased from any vitamin or supplement store or even grocery store
Vegetable Oil - You probably have it in your pantry
Parafin Wax - Available from a craft store
Beeswax - Available online, if not elsewhere
Citronella Oil - Available at any hardware store (as a natural mosquito repellent)
There's a reason that proofide smells like a citronella candle... because half of the ingredients are a citronella candle!
So I can't help but think that if you mix a little neatsfoot oil, cod oil, and vegetable oil in with a citronella candle you'll have proofide for a fraction of a cent per gram instead of 40 cents per gram.
Has anyone tried this? I searched the forums but didn't see any one cooking their own brew yet.
Maybe we could get the proportions right through a little group experimentation.
1.) This is an incredibly small container (40 grams). It works out to 40 cents per gram.
2.) The ingredients are very simple. There's no "rehydrolized phenlythalimine #18" or other strange chemicals.
So it made me think: Crap you could make this stuff in batches far cheaper than this.
The ingredients (listed on the can):
Tallow - which can be purchased under the name "Neatsfoot Oil" from any shoe store or in bigger quantities and cheaper at any equestrian center. Sheldon wrote an article about using neatsfoot oil to break in your new brooks saddle.
Cod Oil - which can be purchased from any vitamin or supplement store or even grocery store
Vegetable Oil - You probably have it in your pantry
Parafin Wax - Available from a craft store
Beeswax - Available online, if not elsewhere
Citronella Oil - Available at any hardware store (as a natural mosquito repellent)
There's a reason that proofide smells like a citronella candle... because half of the ingredients are a citronella candle!
So I can't help but think that if you mix a little neatsfoot oil, cod oil, and vegetable oil in with a citronella candle you'll have proofide for a fraction of a cent per gram instead of 40 cents per gram.
Has anyone tried this? I searched the forums but didn't see any one cooking their own brew yet.
Maybe we could get the proportions right through a little group experimentation.
09-27-08 | 02:39 PM
#3
$4.99
__________________
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
09-27-08 | 02:56 PM
#4
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Neatsfoot oil
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Neatsfoot oilNeatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves) and shin bones of cattle. It remains liquid down to a low temperature, and is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medically as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
Neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature because the fat in animals' legs generally has a lower melting point than the body fat. This occurs because the legs and feet of such animals are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange between arterial and venous blood. Because of this, neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature and so can easily soak into leather.
Currently, neatsfoot oil is sometimes made from lard.[1] It is sold as neatsfoot oil in pure form, or neatsfoot oil compound, if mineral oil is added. Some brands have been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and drying oil[2]. Pure neatsfoot oil comes in two forms: regular and cold tested. In the latter, the oil is filtered at 0 to -4°C to remove solid components, as they can lead to 'spewing' (a whitish crystalline deposit or bloom resulting from fat migration).[3]
'Neat' in the oil's name comes from an old term for cattle, and even today the best quality neatsfoot oil still comes from the legs of calves and with no mineral oil added. "Prime neatsfoot oil" or "neatsfoot oil compound" are terms used for a blend of pure neatsfoot oil and non-organic oils, generally mineral oil. Although the "Prime" is marketed as "the saddlemaker's choice", many saddle makers actually recommend pure neatsfoot oil for leather goods, particularly saddles. Pure neatsfoot oil has superior softening and preservative properties, the addition of mineral oils often leads to more rapid decay of stitching and speeds breakdown of any adhesive materials that may have been used.
Neatsfoot oil, like other leather dressings, should not be used on important historical objects, as it will oxidize with time, and embrittle the leather even more.[4] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it will inevitably darken the leather, even after a single application, and thus is not a desirable product to use when maintaining a lighter shade is desired. However, for routine use on working equipment, particularly in dry climates, it is a powerful softening and conditioning agent that few modern synthetic alternatives can replace
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Neatsfoot oilNeatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves) and shin bones of cattle. It remains liquid down to a low temperature, and is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medically as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
Neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature because the fat in animals' legs generally has a lower melting point than the body fat. This occurs because the legs and feet of such animals are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange between arterial and venous blood. Because of this, neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature and so can easily soak into leather.
Currently, neatsfoot oil is sometimes made from lard.[1] It is sold as neatsfoot oil in pure form, or neatsfoot oil compound, if mineral oil is added. Some brands have been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and drying oil[2]. Pure neatsfoot oil comes in two forms: regular and cold tested. In the latter, the oil is filtered at 0 to -4°C to remove solid components, as they can lead to 'spewing' (a whitish crystalline deposit or bloom resulting from fat migration).[3]
'Neat' in the oil's name comes from an old term for cattle, and even today the best quality neatsfoot oil still comes from the legs of calves and with no mineral oil added. "Prime neatsfoot oil" or "neatsfoot oil compound" are terms used for a blend of pure neatsfoot oil and non-organic oils, generally mineral oil. Although the "Prime" is marketed as "the saddlemaker's choice", many saddle makers actually recommend pure neatsfoot oil for leather goods, particularly saddles. Pure neatsfoot oil has superior softening and preservative properties, the addition of mineral oils often leads to more rapid decay of stitching and speeds breakdown of any adhesive materials that may have been used.
Neatsfoot oil, like other leather dressings, should not be used on important historical objects, as it will oxidize with time, and embrittle the leather even more.[4] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it will inevitably darken the leather, even after a single application, and thus is not a desirable product to use when maintaining a lighter shade is desired. However, for routine use on working equipment, particularly in dry climates, it is a powerful softening and conditioning agent that few modern synthetic alternatives can replace
09-27-08 | 02:58 PM
#5
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Tallow
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
For other uses, see Tallow (disambiguation).
Tallow made by rendering calf suetTallow is a rendered form of beef or mutton fat, processed from suet. It is solid at room temperature. Unlike suet, tallow can be stored for extended periods without the need for refrigeration to prevent decomposition, provided it is kept in an airtight container to prevent oxidation.
Rendered fat obtained from pigs is known as lard.
Industrially, tallow is not strictly defined as beef or mutton fat. In this context, tallow is animal fat that conforms to certain technical criteria, including its melting point, which is also known as titre. It is common for commercial tallow to contain fat derived from other animals, such as pigs.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
For other uses, see Tallow (disambiguation).
Tallow made by rendering calf suetTallow is a rendered form of beef or mutton fat, processed from suet. It is solid at room temperature. Unlike suet, tallow can be stored for extended periods without the need for refrigeration to prevent decomposition, provided it is kept in an airtight container to prevent oxidation.
Rendered fat obtained from pigs is known as lard.
Industrially, tallow is not strictly defined as beef or mutton fat. In this context, tallow is animal fat that conforms to certain technical criteria, including its melting point, which is also known as titre. It is common for commercial tallow to contain fat derived from other animals, such as pigs.
09-27-08 | 03:33 PM
#6
Neatsfoot oil
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Neatsfoot oilNeatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves) and shin bones of cattle. It remains liquid down to a low temperature, and is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medically as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Neatsfoot oilNeatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves) and shin bones of cattle. It remains liquid down to a low temperature, and is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medically as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
You should really focus on what the purpose of Proofide is. Then you'll understand why Neats isn't suitable.
__________________
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
09-27-08 | 04:04 PM
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 885
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first of all, you got rip-offed for paying 16 bucks. my lbs sells them for 8 bucks.
a small tin of proofide should last you quite awhile. buying all the ingredients seems like a waste of time when you only need a small amount once or twice a year. maybe if you had a dozens of brooks saddles to protect, then brewing your own would make sense.
and who's going to experiment with their brooks? not me.
a small tin of proofide should last you quite awhile. buying all the ingredients seems like a waste of time when you only need a small amount once or twice a year. maybe if you had a dozens of brooks saddles to protect, then brewing your own would make sense.
and who's going to experiment with their brooks? not me.
09-27-08 | 10:44 PM
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 764
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09-27-08 | 11:06 PM
#10
aka Phil Jungels
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 91
From: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Just trying to show that they are not the same thing, and can even contain variables in the same name.
Sooooo --- which one is used in their (Brooks) recipe**********
Sooooo --- which one is used in their (Brooks) recipe**********
