Skidding for noobs?
10-12-08 | 08:15 AM
#5
:)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,391
Likes: 1
From: duluth
Bikes: '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
10-12-08 | 09:04 AM
#6
Riding Engineer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
From: Tokyo
Bikes: Kiyo Kiyo Kiyo
Hey,
I just started skidding just few months ago. It is hard to comprehend from the usual non-fixie instinct.
All you do is to stand up from your saddle and move your body forward (practically on the handle bar) and then you lock your rear wheel. You should immediately start to skid. Only problem is the fear factor. The first skid really frightened me; nearly p33ed in my pants. But once I learned how to balance on the handlebar, I started to skid well.
Learning how to use it to stop is another problem, but once you figure out how to skid, it should be self-explanatory. (If you can't figure that one out, ... you should go back to non-fixie. Yep it's real easy.)
The major problem is how to get from there to "skip-stop" which is more practical. It took me a great deal of thinking and watching other people do it to figure out just a small bit of it. I still wiggle dangerously sometimes. ... A lot more to learn!
People tells me from here you go to "skid-power-slide-stop" but I haven't reached this far. I have seen it once and it looked good. Which is a reason enough to learn how to do it.
Good luck practicing,
T
P.S. Try this site:
https://www.oldskooltrack.com/
I just started skidding just few months ago. It is hard to comprehend from the usual non-fixie instinct.
All you do is to stand up from your saddle and move your body forward (practically on the handle bar) and then you lock your rear wheel. You should immediately start to skid. Only problem is the fear factor. The first skid really frightened me; nearly p33ed in my pants. But once I learned how to balance on the handlebar, I started to skid well.
Learning how to use it to stop is another problem, but once you figure out how to skid, it should be self-explanatory. (If you can't figure that one out, ... you should go back to non-fixie. Yep it's real easy.)
The major problem is how to get from there to "skip-stop" which is more practical. It took me a great deal of thinking and watching other people do it to figure out just a small bit of it. I still wiggle dangerously sometimes. ... A lot more to learn!
People tells me from here you go to "skid-power-slide-stop" but I haven't reached this far. I have seen it once and it looked good. Which is a reason enough to learn how to do it.
Good luck practicing,
T
P.S. Try this site:
https://www.oldskooltrack.com/
10-12-08 | 10:23 AM
#7
doom rider
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 2011 Cinelli Histogram, 2008 Redline 925, 1986 Haro Master (original owner, too!), GT (mtn/off-road. It's old. Don't know the model name)
(1) Use the search option.
(2) IMHO, skipping is a much beter (and more effective) way to shave-off speed. However, a front brake is THE best way.
(3) The best place to learn skidding in a parking garage. Not all, but most, of them have rather slick ground surfaces that make skidding much easier. You can also try to learn it on grass, or after it rains.
(4) Ratios: go here.
(2) IMHO, skipping is a much beter (and more effective) way to shave-off speed. However, a front brake is THE best way.
(3) The best place to learn skidding in a parking garage. Not all, but most, of them have rather slick ground surfaces that make skidding much easier. You can also try to learn it on grass, or after it rains.
(4) Ratios: go here.
10-12-08 | 01:25 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Norman, OK
When your cranks are horizontal use the momentum from the farthest back pedal to lift yourself off the seat, then push that back pedal back downwards and MARIOKARTPOWERSLIDEEEEEE. That was what helped me most. I was trying to pull into skids between horizontal and verticle with pure force, which obviously didnt work.
10-12-08 | 02:14 PM
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
10-12-08 | 03:13 PM
#12
doom rider
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 2011 Cinelli Histogram, 2008 Redline 925, 1986 Haro Master (original owner, too!), GT (mtn/off-road. It's old. Don't know the model name)
10-12-08 | 08:38 PM
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
1) when your stronger leg pedal is at 6 o'clock...stand up
2) lean forward, thrust your hips into your handle bars and put your nuts on top of the stem
3) as your stronger leg reaches 3 o'clock lock it
4) try to keep your balance and by now your bike should be skidding otherwise you ate it and are missing a layer of skin somewhere...
2) lean forward, thrust your hips into your handle bars and put your nuts on top of the stem
3) as your stronger leg reaches 3 o'clock lock it
4) try to keep your balance and by now your bike should be skidding otherwise you ate it and are missing a layer of skin somewhere...
10-12-08 | 11:58 PM
#15
SWAAAAAAAAAAAT
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: alief houston texas
Bikes: masi speciale fixed (urrringe), haro f1 (black), haro x2 (red)
bullhorns actually help. hold on to bullhorns or flip chops for moar leverage. weight on the horns also puts more weight on the front. i couldn't skid well with flat bars.
