I have zero experience with bike maintenance, but I want to learn. Specifically, I'd like to know how to switch back and forth between the fixed and freewheel hub on my SS bike.

Can someone recommend a video or book or other resource that is good for newbies? Any other general resource for bike maintenance would be welcome too.

Thanks.

the fixed side takes a cog and lockring

the free side takes a thread on freewheel

when you want to go from one to another you take the wheel off and switch the drive sides around, fixed/free 120mm wheels have the same spoke length/dish on each side so you just flipflop it and it fits in the drops outs and has the same chainline

I appreciate your reply and I'm sure that makes perfect sense to people who have a clue about bike maintenance. Unfortunately I don't. I'm not familiar with some of the terms ("drive sides", "spoke dish", "drop outs", "chainline") so I can't really picture what you're saying. Clearly I need a book or a video or something like that.

you take the rear wheel off. and flip it around, hence the "flip/flop" if you dont have a freewheel (bmx) style freewheel threaded onto the opposite side of your wheel you will need to buy one. just thread it on hand tight and put the wheel back on, your pedalling will do the rest of the tightening. Make sure to grease the threads before you put it on.

Thanks. That makes sense. So all I need for tools is a wrench and some grease? I already have a freewheel on the other side, so I'm set there.

if its on all you will need is a 15mm (likely) wrench to take the wheel off, flip it around and put it back on.

An alternative method is to park the bike with the rear wheel fixed to a rack. Use a chain tool to break the chain, then remove the chain. Loosen the axles nuts and pull the frame away from the wheel, leaving it upright in the rack.

With the bike now free, walk around the wheel so you're now 180 degrees from where you were. Push the frame back onto the wheel axle. Reattach the chain. Tension the chain and tighten the wheel nuts.

You're ready to go.

Don't use this method.

Way to unecessarily complicate things.

And please read this: once you have the wheel off. Chain tension must be set properly. It isn't simply a matter of putting the wheel back in anywhere you choose.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension

I appreciate the heads-up on this. I wouldn't have had any idea.

Unfortunately, I can't understand Sheldon's explanation. Way too many terms I'm not familiar with. I'm going to have to learn some basics first. A video would be extremely helpful, since I'm a visual learner and completely new to this.

just search the terms you dont know on that website, he has good explanations for a lot of stuff

Centering the chain ring as described by Sheldon should only be necessary if you find you have binding in some spots. That means your chainring is not perfectly centered. If your cranks turn smoothly with a tight chain and no slack spots then you don't need to do anything further.

I took a quick spin through youtube to see what there was for chain tensioning videos and it looks like pretty slim pickings.

Essentially, you'll be moving the wheel forward or back to get the chain tight. Tight means somewhere between so tight it binds (too tight) to slack enough that it flops around. Because chain ring (the big ring at the front by the pedals) are rarely perfectly round, the tension will vary with different pedal positions. Rule of thumb is about 1/4" or so up or down in the middle of the chain for about 1/2" of play. Some people will prefer more, others less. I prefer the 1/4" rule myself. I generally keep my chain as tight as I can without binding at the tightest point and that works for me.

What might be best for you is to try to find a local bike co-op or somewhere that offers classes. It's much easier to learn hands on with someone helping than it is to read something or often even to watch it on video.

No, it's only necessary if you can't obtain a good chain tension at all. "Centering" needs to be done only in very specific circumstances, not just for "if you have binding in some spots". The OP doesn't need to care about this at all.

This is a problem that a trip to the bike shop with a 6-pack in hand can fix.

Alternatively, park the bike with the rear wheel fixed to a rack. Use a chain tool to break the chain, then remove the crank arms and install them on the left side of the bike. Then, reattach the chain to the other cog. (Just be sure you have a lockring attached to your freewheel and the freewheel is designed to work opposite of all other freewheels).