chainline - Is it more of an "issue" for FG than SS?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 242
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From: O'Fallon, MO
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Professional, 1993 Raleigh Technium Olympian, 2006 Cervelo Dual, 2008 Cannondale Caad8, 2010 Kona Unit, 2013 Trek Superfly 100 AL Pro, 2014 Trek Crockett 9, 2017 All City Nature Boy 853
chainline - Is it more of an "issue" for FG than SS?
I'm converting a 1973 Raleigh Professional to single speed. Everything but the tires/tubes, brake pads, cables, saddle, bars, brake levers and rear gear will be original - including the 27"x1.25" Weinmann rims on high-flange Campagnolo Record hubs.
I got a 16T BMX freewheel to use. But, even with the stock inner chainring, the chainline is still off by ~1cm. I know I could fix this by respacing and redishing the back wheel. But, with the age of the spokes & rim, I'm a little hesitant about the redishing part.
So, what are everyone's thoughts? Is this 1cm going to be a big deal in a SS application?
If it affects your answer, the stock chainring is 3/32", the BMX freewheel is 1/8" and I'll be using an 1/8" chain.
Thanks.
Steve
I got a 16T BMX freewheel to use. But, even with the stock inner chainring, the chainline is still off by ~1cm. I know I could fix this by respacing and redishing the back wheel. But, with the age of the spokes & rim, I'm a little hesitant about the redishing part.
So, what are everyone's thoughts? Is this 1cm going to be a big deal in a SS application?
If it affects your answer, the stock chainring is 3/32", the BMX freewheel is 1/8" and I'll be using an 1/8" chain.
Thanks.
Steve
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 288
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From: pittsburghadelphia
Bikes: types that go fast
uhhhhh, easy. chainring bolt spacers. they come in loads of sizes (up to like 4mm's, maybe more), and though it wont be perfect i should help a lot and negate the issue. for a ss, it should be fine
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Agreed that 1cm is kind of a lot for FG or SS. If you don't want to respace the rear axle you could change the bottom bracket out and get the crank as close to the frame as it will go without touching, or as was suggested above use chainring spacers to move the ring inboard.
If you can't get it right then using a 3/32 freewheel and chain might help a bit as they are designed to run at an angle whereas 1/8 chains are generally designed to run straight.
If you can't get it right then using a 3/32 freewheel and chain might help a bit as they are designed to run at an angle whereas 1/8 chains are generally designed to run straight.





