New to the forum, and was wondering, is it much of a hassle to convert your Threadless stem to a Quill stem? I'm partial to a more classic look. And the conversion would be taking place on a 2009 Mercier Kilo TT. Any info would be appreciated.

Buy a threaded headset and a quill stem and bring it to your local bike shop. The fork should be 1" (Kilo TT), so that shouldn't be a problem at all. The problem might be that the steerer tube might not be threaded, so you'll have to find someone to thread it.

getting someone to thread it, that sounds like trouble

you need the steertube of your fork to be threaded in order to run a quill stem. on a threadless setup, the stem itself clamps around the steertube to hold the headset together. on a threaded setup, you need the threads to lock the headset in place, then stick the quill stem in.

so you either need to get someone to thread your headset (not impossible but very difficult if there are no threads already, should definitely be done by a professional) or you need to get a new fork, threaded obviously.

Don't even bother trying to get your threadless headset threaded. You need a speciality tool that maybe 1% of the bike shops in the world have on hand. And maybe 1% of that 1% know how to use it properly.

A threaded steel/carbon AL steere fork can be had for $30-$50 online. It's simply not worth it to take a gamble on something that may produce mediocre to craptacular results.

So basically the OP has 3 things he needs to do.

1) Fork replace
2) Headset replace
3) Stem replace

Operator, that sounds like a plan to me

or, maybe buy an IRO angus frame instead if you haven't bought the kilo yet.

but that's just a suggestion.

our co-op here has a die for threading or extending the threads of 1" steer tubes. i had no idea we were so exclusive i've used it several times with success, but i agree that it is probably easier to just drop the $30 on a new fork, especially if you sell the fork you got for $25!

I'd avoid threading a threadless fork but I'm just paranoid about front end failiure.

Don't thread a threadless fork. The walls of a threadless fork are not (necessarily) thick enough to withstand having threads put into them.

This was taught to me by 3 head mechanics before me.

If your kilo is green and a 53 i'd be happy to trade.

+1 Just buy a new/used threaded fork.

With all your viewpoints being taken into consideration, I believe I will be selling my fork, and getting a threaded one. Thanks guys.

Linky?
I've been watching 1" carbon fork prices for a couple of months now, I'm not seeing anything anywhere near that cheap, especially after shipping is added.