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-   -   44x17 (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/489667-44x17.html)

adriano 11-30-08 12:21 AM


Originally Posted by monkeyking (Post 7935871)
Here's a good source for caculating: http://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html
I ride 50x19 (69 GI) on my Panasonic and 46x16 (75 GI) on my Gan Well, both brakeless (in Dallas which is also pretty flat). Personally if I were running a 48, I'd probably go with a 17 cog for the skid patches and 74 GI is pretty reasonable for flatter terrain.

how long are your crank arms?

monkeyking 11-30-08 03:17 AM


Originally Posted by adriano (Post 7937309)
how long are your crank arms?

165

onetwentyeight 11-30-08 09:48 AM

been running 45x17 for the last year.. i like to climb.

jhota 11-30-08 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by onetwentyeight (Post 7938433)
been running 45x17 for the last year.. i like to climb.

living in SF, one would expect so.

onetwentyeight 11-30-08 10:19 AM

when life gives you lemons... :P

davewins 11-30-08 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by Jabba Degrassi (Post 7934134)
Your girlfriend has never complained.

oh snap!

croscoe 11-30-08 06:29 PM

Running 48x19 right now which is nice for longer paved rides on 25-28mm tires... It's a little steep with 38mm knobbies off road... may try a 44T chainring for 63.3 GI on the trails and mixed surface rides. Eh.

mangpress 11-30-08 10:46 PM


Originally Posted by adriano (Post 7937309)
how long are your crank arms?

the thing with crank arm length and gears is that, longer arms <i>should</i> effectively give you more leverage over the gear while a shorter arm gives you a smaller circumference to spin through.

sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.

there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.

adriano 12-01-08 12:09 AM


Originally Posted by mangpress (Post 7942379)
the thing with crank arm length and gears is that, longer arms <i>should</i> effectively give you more leverage over the gear while a shorter arm gives you a smaller circumference to spin through.

sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.

there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.

the way i see it, the standard gear inch calculation describes the wheel rotation per crank rotation, and each crank arm length will have a different feel at a given ratio. the gear inch calculation can be corrected for feel by utilizing the proportion of crank arm lengths. with identical overall tire diameter and ratio, i know that the distance traveled per rotation will be no different with different crank arm lengths, but if one is to compare how ratios feel, arm length must be accounted for. though distance per arm rotation is identical within a ratio, i think crank arm length has an affect on performance. fit is likely the most important factor of performance with an arm length, but assuming one has no preference between two arm lengths, different arm lengths will feel and perform differently. i would guess that longer arms have a greater mechanical advantage for efficiency while shorter arms can hit high revolutions more easily because the pedal travels a shorter distance per revolution.

Punished 12-01-08 12:31 AM

42x17 for my city rides. I love it, sure I spin a bit faster then I was with my 48 tooth but I have more fun riding now.

bbattle 12-01-08 07:16 AM

42 - 16 freewheel, 42 - 15 fixed. I've climbed really steep short stuff (>20% for one block) and some long climbs (Monte Sano Mt. up Bankhead) which is three miles long from the Five Points neighborhood. 5.8% grade. I always flip the wheel to the freewheel side for the descent.

On the flats, I can spin out the 42-16 pretty easily but it's nice to have when I'm commuting and carrying a bunch of stuff. Bike originally had 42-17 fixed but that was too low. I was racing against a couple of dudes in an alleycat and they just moved on past me like I was sitting still.

Whatever works for you; go for it. I've seen some bikes with insanely high gearing and knew it was all for show; the rider was not that good. A good rider had his bike running a 52 - 15 for one race. It was funny to see him get started, he did a running start. Once he got it cranked up he was gone. Until it came time to slow down or stop. Had to work hard to control that beast. Then it was another block of getting up to speed. He changed to a more manageable gear after that.

huhenio 12-01-08 10:19 AM

48x19


With 32mm Panaracer Crosstowns.

huhenio 12-01-08 10:21 AM


Originally Posted by bbattle (Post 7943329)

Whatever works for you; go for it. I've seen some bikes with insanely high gearing and knew it was all for show; the rider was not that good. A good rider had his bike running a 52 - 15 for one race. It was funny to see him get started, he did a running start. Once he got it cranked up he was gone. Until it came time to slow down or stop. Had to work hard to control that beast. Then it was another block of getting up to speed. He changed to a more manageable gear after that.

With thinner tires and warmer weather, I like 110 gear inches myself.

nahh 12-01-08 08:06 PM

40/16. It's lame, but we got some hills.

Philadelph 12-02-08 12:07 AM


Originally Posted by adriano (Post 7931658)
this seemed on topic enough, but should i just start a new thread?

im brakeless and want to be able to accelerate and skid more quickly and easily, but i dont want to really cut my top speed or spin like a top all day. i ride in urban philadelphia, which is almost all flat and favoring acceleration and deceleration on demand over consistent top speed. when i run, i like the a 1600m pace but not the 800m as i have great endurance over a distance with poorer endurance as the force per stride increases. i think i can handle a higher spin well as long as the gearing doesn't require as much force as it does now. im at 48x16 right now, which is a bit much for me at 145 despite strong legs, if i do say so. the current difficulty in braking and my locale dont let me really use the top end much anyway, but the lower revolutions is nice. ill be maintaining 48t with either my current chainring or a friends so the change will be in the cog.

assuming 170mm crank arms, 44x17 is about 48x18.5. i have 165mm arms, which i think increases the ratio slightly, so your 44x17@170 is about 48x19@165. ive read up and heard a lot of different arguements for 48x17, x18, and x19. 19t too low speed, high spin? 18t still hard to accelerate or skid and poor skid patch count? for me, i think its between 18t and 19t, but thats my guess. should i just man up and wrangle 80+ inches? i could buy slew of cogs and see what works, but thats not financially possible. im trying to make the most educated, and preferably one-time, cog purchase. after fording my verbiage, whats your take and why? personal experience preferred; haters can lick me bollocks, haha.

You should go with 48x18 imo. 48x17, although tempting for the skid patches will still feel a little slow to accelerate/decelerate, and could be a bit tough on some steeper climbs. I wouldn't worry so much about the skid patches, because most likely you will be able to just use backpressure easily with the 48x18 combo. Putting an 18t cog on will feel like heaven, and you will be surprised how fast you can go by spinning.

johnnytheboy 12-02-08 12:19 AM

yesterday, i switched from 48/17 to 48/18 and was AMAZED at how easy it was to trackstand, accelerate and stop.
it was like a whole other bike.

millhouse7912 12-04-08 02:19 AM

Currently riding 48X16 - little low for me and even though I like the speed I find it a bit too hard to stop/skid. I want to be able to stop and skid with a bit more ease so I guess I have a couple questions...

Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?

Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?

THANKS all...

spray2020 12-04-08 08:30 AM

Maybe someone on here could give some advice-

I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping

i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding

any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?

xlazymx 12-04-08 08:51 AM

whats the normal street riding crankarm tooth these days

adriano 12-04-08 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by Philadelph (Post 7948522)
You should go with 48x18 imo. 48x17, although tempting for the skid patches will still feel a little slow to accelerate/decelerate, and could be a bit tough on some steeper climbs. I wouldn't worry so much about the skid patches, because most likely you will be able to just use backpressure easily with the 48x18 combo. Putting an 18t cog on will feel like heaven, and you will be surprised how fast you can go by spinning.

i wanted to go with total control so i ordered up a 19t, but one day i want to be able to brakeless wrestle macho man ratios.


Originally Posted by millhouse7912 (Post 7961720)
Currently riding 48X16 - little low for me and even though I like the speed I find it a bit too hard to stop/skid. I want to be able to stop and skid with a bit more ease so I guess I have a couple questions...

Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?

Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?

THANKS all...

skid patches dont make skidding easier, but spread the wear of skidding.


Originally Posted by spray2020 (Post 7962467)
Maybe someone on here could give some advice-

I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping

i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding

any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?

if you increase the ratio from what youre used to, youll have to shift forward more than youre used to especially if youre used to a near sitted position. if you dont dig it, then switching back shouldnt be too much of a hassle.

frankiedee 12-04-08 09:18 AM

right now i'm running a 40x16 with 170mm cranks and i have a lot of trouble skidding, should i bump up to 17 or 18 or should i bee looking for 44 or 46?

adriano 12-04-08 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by frankiedee (Post 7962674)
right now i'm running a 40x16 with 170mm cranks and i have a lot of trouble skidding, should i bump up to 17 or 18 or should i bee looking for 44 or 46?

try to lean forward more, and then get a bigger cog.

frankiedee 12-04-08 09:41 AM

i lean forward, and i can lock up my wheel, but instead of skidding, my back tire just skips to a stop.

adriano 12-04-08 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by frankiedee (Post 7962796)
i lean forward, and i can lock up my wheel, but instead of skidding, my back tire just skips to a stop.

try to go faster, and put your crotch on the steerer.

Adam G. 12-04-08 09:59 AM


Originally Posted by frankiedee (Post 7962674)
right now i'm running a 40x16 with 170mm cranks and i have a lot of trouble skidding, should i bump up to 17 or 18 or should i bee looking for 44 or 46?

I am running 46X16 with 170mm cranks and have no trouble with skidding, in fact I can sit down while skidding.

I would find a extremely low gear like 40x16 would be super easy. Like someone said before maybe you are not going fast enough.


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