44x17
11-30-08 | 12:21 AM
#51
*
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,876
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore
Bikes: https://velospace.org/node/18951
Here's a good source for caculating: https://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html
I ride 50x19 (69 GI) on my Panasonic and 46x16 (75 GI) on my Gan Well, both brakeless (in Dallas which is also pretty flat). Personally if I were running a 48, I'd probably go with a 17 cog for the skid patches and 74 GI is pretty reasonable for flatter terrain.
I ride 50x19 (69 GI) on my Panasonic and 46x16 (75 GI) on my Gan Well, both brakeless (in Dallas which is also pretty flat). Personally if I were running a 48, I'd probably go with a 17 cog for the skid patches and 74 GI is pretty reasonable for flatter terrain.
11-30-08 | 10:13 AM
#54
blithering idiot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 1
From: beautiful coastal South Carolina
Bikes: 1991 Trek 930, 2005 Bianchi Eros, 2006 Nashbar "X," IRO Rob Roy
11-30-08 | 10:46 PM
#58
waste
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Perth, Australia
Bikes: work fix, play fix, dk 20", cruiser, ******* parts
the thing with crank arm length and gears is that, longer arms <i>should</i> effectively give you more leverage over the gear while a shorter arm gives you a smaller circumference to spin through.
sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.
there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.
sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.
there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.
12-01-08 | 12:09 AM
#59
*
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,876
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore
Bikes: https://velospace.org/node/18951
the thing with crank arm length and gears is that, longer arms <i>should</i> effectively give you more leverage over the gear while a shorter arm gives you a smaller circumference to spin through.
sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.
there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.
sprinters tend to run shorter cranks, while pursuiters and endurance riders (on the track anyway) run longer crank lengths.
there is little to suggest any of this will affect your performance any more than drinking goat milk prior to a crit.
12-01-08 | 07:16 AM
#61
.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
42 - 16 freewheel, 42 - 15 fixed. I've climbed really steep short stuff (>20% for one block) and some long climbs (Monte Sano Mt. up Bankhead) which is three miles long from the Five Points neighborhood. 5.8% grade. I always flip the wheel to the freewheel side for the descent.
On the flats, I can spin out the 42-16 pretty easily but it's nice to have when I'm commuting and carrying a bunch of stuff. Bike originally had 42-17 fixed but that was too low. I was racing against a couple of dudes in an alleycat and they just moved on past me like I was sitting still.
Whatever works for you; go for it. I've seen some bikes with insanely high gearing and knew it was all for show; the rider was not that good. A good rider had his bike running a 52 - 15 for one race. It was funny to see him get started, he did a running start. Once he got it cranked up he was gone. Until it came time to slow down or stop. Had to work hard to control that beast. Then it was another block of getting up to speed. He changed to a more manageable gear after that.
On the flats, I can spin out the 42-16 pretty easily but it's nice to have when I'm commuting and carrying a bunch of stuff. Bike originally had 42-17 fixed but that was too low. I was racing against a couple of dudes in an alleycat and they just moved on past me like I was sitting still.
Whatever works for you; go for it. I've seen some bikes with insanely high gearing and knew it was all for show; the rider was not that good. A good rider had his bike running a 52 - 15 for one race. It was funny to see him get started, he did a running start. Once he got it cranked up he was gone. Until it came time to slow down or stop. Had to work hard to control that beast. Then it was another block of getting up to speed. He changed to a more manageable gear after that.
12-01-08 | 10:21 AM
#63
Barbieri Telefonico
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Bikes: Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
Whatever works for you; go for it. I've seen some bikes with insanely high gearing and knew it was all for show; the rider was not that good. A good rider had his bike running a 52 - 15 for one race. It was funny to see him get started, he did a running start. Once he got it cranked up he was gone. Until it came time to slow down or stop. Had to work hard to control that beast. Then it was another block of getting up to speed. He changed to a more manageable gear after that.
__________________
Giving Haircuts Over The Phone
Giving Haircuts Over The Phone
12-02-08 | 12:07 AM
#65
Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
this seemed on topic enough, but should i just start a new thread?
im brakeless and want to be able to accelerate and skid more quickly and easily, but i dont want to really cut my top speed or spin like a top all day. i ride in urban philadelphia, which is almost all flat and favoring acceleration and deceleration on demand over consistent top speed. when i run, i like the a 1600m pace but not the 800m as i have great endurance over a distance with poorer endurance as the force per stride increases. i think i can handle a higher spin well as long as the gearing doesn't require as much force as it does now. im at 48x16 right now, which is a bit much for me at 145 despite strong legs, if i do say so. the current difficulty in braking and my locale dont let me really use the top end much anyway, but the lower revolutions is nice. ill be maintaining 48t with either my current chainring or a friends so the change will be in the cog.
assuming 170mm crank arms, 44x17 is about 48x18.5. i have 165mm arms, which i think increases the ratio slightly, so your 44x17@170 is about 48x19@165. ive read up and heard a lot of different arguements for 48x17, x18, and x19. 19t too low speed, high spin? 18t still hard to accelerate or skid and poor skid patch count? for me, i think its between 18t and 19t, but thats my guess. should i just man up and wrangle 80+ inches? i could buy slew of cogs and see what works, but thats not financially possible. im trying to make the most educated, and preferably one-time, cog purchase. after fording my verbiage, whats your take and why? personal experience preferred; haters can lick me bollocks, haha.
im brakeless and want to be able to accelerate and skid more quickly and easily, but i dont want to really cut my top speed or spin like a top all day. i ride in urban philadelphia, which is almost all flat and favoring acceleration and deceleration on demand over consistent top speed. when i run, i like the a 1600m pace but not the 800m as i have great endurance over a distance with poorer endurance as the force per stride increases. i think i can handle a higher spin well as long as the gearing doesn't require as much force as it does now. im at 48x16 right now, which is a bit much for me at 145 despite strong legs, if i do say so. the current difficulty in braking and my locale dont let me really use the top end much anyway, but the lower revolutions is nice. ill be maintaining 48t with either my current chainring or a friends so the change will be in the cog.
assuming 170mm crank arms, 44x17 is about 48x18.5. i have 165mm arms, which i think increases the ratio slightly, so your 44x17@170 is about 48x19@165. ive read up and heard a lot of different arguements for 48x17, x18, and x19. 19t too low speed, high spin? 18t still hard to accelerate or skid and poor skid patch count? for me, i think its between 18t and 19t, but thats my guess. should i just man up and wrangle 80+ inches? i could buy slew of cogs and see what works, but thats not financially possible. im trying to make the most educated, and preferably one-time, cog purchase. after fording my verbiage, whats your take and why? personal experience preferred; haters can lick me bollocks, haha.
Last edited by Philadelph; 12-02-08 at 12:09 AM. Reason: yo mama
12-04-08 | 02:19 AM
#67
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Currently riding 48X16 - little low for me and even though I like the speed I find it a bit too hard to stop/skid. I want to be able to stop and skid with a bit more ease so I guess I have a couple questions...
Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?
Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?
THANKS all...
Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?
Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?
THANKS all...
12-04-08 | 08:30 AM
#68
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: philadelphia
Maybe someone on here could give some advice-
I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping
i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding
any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?
I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping
i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding
any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?
12-04-08 | 09:00 AM
#70
*
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,876
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore
Bikes: https://velospace.org/node/18951
You should go with 48x18 imo. 48x17, although tempting for the skid patches will still feel a little slow to accelerate/decelerate, and could be a bit tough on some steeper climbs. I wouldn't worry so much about the skid patches, because most likely you will be able to just use backpressure easily with the 48x18 combo. Putting an 18t cog on will feel like heaven, and you will be surprised how fast you can go by spinning.
Currently riding 48X16 - little low for me and even though I like the speed I find it a bit too hard to stop/skid. I want to be able to stop and skid with a bit more ease so I guess I have a couple questions...
Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?
Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?
THANKS all...
Do more skid patches make it easier to skid? or just even out (create more spots for) the ware on the tires?
Would gearing to 48X17, 46X17 allow me to skid/stop easier?
THANKS all...
Maybe someone on here could give some advice-
I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping
i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding
any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?
I went from 41 x 17 to 44 x 17 and now I am also having issues skid stopping
i guess i got used to the other ratio, and found that I was very easy to skid, even almost sitting down and skidding
any advice to skid easy with my new setup? I guess i gotta just lean more forward?
12-04-08 | 09:27 AM
#72
*
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,876
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore
Bikes: https://velospace.org/node/18951
12-04-08 | 09:55 AM
#74
*
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,876
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore
Bikes: https://velospace.org/node/18951
12-04-08 | 09:59 AM
#75
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
I would find a extremely low gear like 40x16 would be super easy. Like someone said before maybe you are not going fast enough.