I know you guys love these, So i'll make it quick.

Ive been riding fixed for like 1 year, except on a conversion with janky parts.

I want to buy a kilo tt frame and build it up as a first REAL fixed gear.

First thing:

The parts ive picked: (velocity, MKS, nitto stem and bars, Tange, Soma) have added up to 950 including the frame.
QUESTION: does this seem like too much to spend on components on a $200 frame?

Second part

I've ridden Velocity and Weinmann rims before, heres my thing:
I want plain silver semi-deep rims, Theres a set of formula/velocitys for 260, and a weinmann/formula for
like $100 less. I actually like the look of the Weinmann DP18s better.
Question: Since the only difference in these sets are the rims, are the quality of the velocity rims better then the DP18s enough that it justifies spending an extra 100 bucks? Also, would it be stupid to put a pair of DP18s on a bike i plan to put this much into?


THANKS

Personally, I do think $950 is too much to spend with a kilo. I may have spent close to $500, but in the $950 range, getting a different complete bike makes way more sense, in terms of cost effectiveness.

As far as I know, the main issue with Weinmanns over Velocities is that they're heavier.

a frame is a frame. Its just tubing and welds. If you like the look of the frame then I say do it, because buying a 900 dollar bike gets you pretty much nothing. if you spent 950 on a kilo you would have one hell of a bike with really nice components and it would ride and feel better than any stock bike you could buy for the price.

I say do it in shifts though. I would buy the kilo first, then start swapping/stocking new parts. This allows you to enjoy the bike in its simple, stock form, all the while upgrading it along the way. This also helps so you can see if you like the different components together. How did you get to 950 bucks by the way? Parts list?

-Ali

Actually, I think that's great advice. Slowly upgrading will cause you to discover what elements are more important than others, and may help you to appreciate each individual component more than if you put on all nice things instantly. But, I have zero faith in the stock kilo hubs seems like the only thing to do there is to remove, resell on CL before riding, and then put on real wheels.

i don't have too many complaints about the stock kilo except for the wheelset, pedals and saddle. switch those out first and you should be good to take your time upgrading other components.

I'd rather have nicer components and a good frame than mediocre components and a nicer frame.

Thanks so far guys,
heres the parts list:

Kilo TT frame (JUST frame) - 200
velocity to formulas - 270 (may end up having my own ones built)
Nitto b123 - 50
Soma Hellyer Cranks - 165 (Probably gonna end up getting Sugino's for around 80-90)
MKS pedals - 22
Cages - 10
Dimension double straps - 35
BB - 30
Shimano Oval Chain - 22
Tange Levin Headset - 30
Soma Post - 30
Saddle, used selle Rolls - 75ish
Nitto Jaguar - 72
DA Cog, LR - 30

I'm gonna space the buying out over like 6 weeks, since I'm 18 and poor : )

Also, does this seem like a good list? I tried to focus on spending the money on important things.
the only thing I don't like are the Formula Hubs, wish I could just buy silver deep v's NMSw and lace them to Miche Hubs.

you can buy deep v's in silver and lace them to whatever the F you want.

that cog and lockring price isn't bad but still kinda high.

Kilos come with nonthreaded headsets now. So that nitto jag requires a different fork, IIRC.

I would check benscycle.net to see what you can do as far as prices, they have some good deals. Also ebay is your friend, use seller stores though.

Regarding your wheel question... For my girlfriend I am buying her milwaukee/ben's cycle hubs (blue), black velocity rims, DT Swiss black spokes, and blue anodized nipples. The total is going to come out to less than 260 and the milwaukee/ben's cycle hubs are leaps and bounds better than formulas. Not to mention they come in custom colors as well and are sealed bearings. Total price i think is around 200ish +-25bucks And thats for both wheels.

Your list isnt bad, and your bike will be really nice after all is said and done, just buy in pieces, thats what i am doing.

-Ali

you could probably get better cranks than those somas for that price. Or something more cost effective.

$72 seems like a lot for a stem, to me.

and a stem thats designed for bikes with little to no saddle to stem drop at that. It's only expensive because of it's hip factor. If this is a street bike it's pretty impractical.

I'd also advise against getting track drops for street riding.

Why not take a month, go to eBay every day, and find a vintage Pinarello or Mercian or Bob Jackson in lugged steel for the same $950? You'd wind up with a better frame, better components and a better-looking ride.

Not a bad idea, but I want to build it myself, also, how much more in sync with your ride can you be if you hand selected every single part down to the bearings?
Thanks for info on other stuff guys, and I've been riding track drops on the street for about 6 months, in NYC, I like them.
And the Nitto Jag is for looks, god forbid i should take looks into consideration when making a bike!!!
: )


also, Idk how else to clarify haha, I'm getting the Frameset from Bike Island, not the Kilo TT with stock parts

Especially since the OP wants something vintage looking in the first place...given those component choices.

you can get a new rolls saddle for cheaper if you shop around...

and I don't know why everybody hates on formula hubs. I've never had a problem with them.

Its not that theres a problem with them, but to put them on a bike with miche nitto amd tange parts on it seems a bit foolish. Like having an olympic sprinter wear costco walking shoes.

if those costco shoes can get you to the podium, there's nothing wrong with wearing them.

I agree with blickblock about having a good frame nice components v.s. a really nice frame with *eh* components.

I am still pretty sure you need a different fork with the frameset if you want to use the nitto jag my friend.

-Ali

Why would I need a different Fork? Can someone explain this to me? Maybe im ******ed but a 1" threaded steerer is a 1" threaded steerer last time I checked. It says on the BD/BI page that it can take either.

eBay. Early 80s Pinarello. All chrome under metallic gold paint. Columbus tubing, Mavic wheels, Campy/Gipiemme/3ttt drive train, hubs, bars, stems, posts and drops. Panto'ed headset and forkcrowns. $729 with holiday coupon. Just sayin'.

Wow ^^ beats the pants off of any modern bike deal

I'd go more frugal with the parts.... unless you can find the bling on craigslist for cheap.
Save the $100 and go with the DP-18s.

I recently decided to build up my first real fixed gear (Soma Rush) as well -- here's what i decided:

Spend a bit more on the frame, wheelsets and cranks, etc. I spent about $1200 all told. You can always upgrade components later -- all of them if you choose. I know you can do this with wheels and frames, too, but to me the frame and wheels were the 'soul' of the bike and I decided to spend more there up front and I'm happy I did. I had the wheelsets hand-built and they are awesome.

I've recently saved up a few hundred more so I'm off soon to upgrade my heavy-ish steel seat post with a Thomson Elite and the heavy-ish Salsa stem with either a Ritchy or Thomson as well. This spring I plan on possibly upgrading the BB and also the crank to 75's.

IMO this was a good way to go about it. Then in the future if I decide I need a nicer frame I'll slap the 75's, Thomson, etc. on it and already have great parts and the mid-range components I had previously will be put back on the old bike -- perhaps with some changes to vary things up a bit.

I run Velocity Aeroheads. Cheaper than Deep Vs and still have a deep profile (not as deep). I love the look of mine.

If you are 18 years old, childless, and unattached, do whatever the hell you want and don't worry about the cost.