Best/Strongest Lockring
12-26-08 | 06:08 PM
#26
French Warmonger
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Greetings from Michigan The Great Lake State
Bikes: Lyon Follis, raleigh sportif, giant unknown, centurian lemans r.i.p.
the point is still moot. no matter how much force is applied to the cranks, the necessary action required to loosen a lock ring cannot be created by the cranks. in one direction (pedaling forward), the cog moves-- "tries to", more accurately-- away from the lock ring; in the other (locking up, skidding, etc), the cog uses friction to tighten the lockring while the lockring is subsequently forced to "use" the reverse threads as leverage to tighten itself against the cog.
the only thing the cog can do to free itself is push the lock ring hard enough to rip the threads off of the hub.
correct me if i'm wrong.
the only thing the cog can do to free itself is push the lock ring hard enough to rip the threads off of the hub.
correct me if i'm wrong.
when you skid and loosen an improperly installed cog so that it butts up to and tightens the lockring, since both are tending towards the same centerline, neither moves a significant amount (very small). The force this applies isn't enough to do much real damage in the form of mashing threads and killing the hub.
BUT once you apply clockwise torque on the cog by going forward again, the two are rotating together as long as friction holds the two together (normal force is decreasing over this period as friction spins the two together) and tending away from that centerline thus, the cog tightens and the lockring loosens. Again, the movement is very small, but perhaps more than in the first case when the two were coming together.
Over many such cycles, the lockring is gradually loosened to the point where it is engaging an insignificant number of threads on the hub and the force of the loosening cog shears off the remaining engaged threads and buggers your hub.
'course, this is all theorizing that I've never dealt with since I (try to) make sure the durn thin's on rite.
/high horse
12-26-08 | 06:33 PM
#27
Trackie
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
1. There's no way to put as much force on a cog by hand, as when standing on the pedals. So after installing & riding a cog for the first time, it will tighten more than your wrench can do it.
2. Thus, you should re-tighten your lockring after a ride or two. We can appreciate the attempt to put alot of force on the lockring upon its initial install, but the cog can and does tighten up quite a bit due to the chain. So rather than "boot it" with your foot, just re-tighten the ring by hand after riding and you'll be good to go.
3. You can easily break a cheap lockring with a hand wrench - cheap metal is cheap metal. A Surly, Phil, or Dura-Ace are all great,and if you break those by hand, please come back and post about it.
4. As for Mr. Campy, well, those Campy parts are very, very special and take a special proprietary 10-lb. monkey wrench from Harbor Freight to install properly. Please use that special tool from now on. If you're not sure, you can call Mr. Ignoramo Campagnolo & ask him. He's at 1-800-LIL-BABY.
2. Thus, you should re-tighten your lockring after a ride or two. We can appreciate the attempt to put alot of force on the lockring upon its initial install, but the cog can and does tighten up quite a bit due to the chain. So rather than "boot it" with your foot, just re-tighten the ring by hand after riding and you'll be good to go.
3. You can easily break a cheap lockring with a hand wrench - cheap metal is cheap metal. A Surly, Phil, or Dura-Ace are all great,and if you break those by hand, please come back and post about it.
4. As for Mr. Campy, well, those Campy parts are very, very special and take a special proprietary 10-lb. monkey wrench from Harbor Freight to install properly. Please use that special tool from now on. If you're not sure, you can call Mr. Ignoramo Campagnolo & ask him. He's at 1-800-LIL-BABY.
12-26-08 | 07:11 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
From: slo, ca
Bikes: Bianchi Pista, Schwinn Varsity (fixed), Mongoose Dirt Jumper.
1. There's no way to put as much force on a cog by hand, as when standing on the pedals. So after installing & riding a cog for the first time, it will tighten more than your wrench can do it.
2. Thus, you should re-tighten your lockring after a ride or two. We can appreciate the attempt to put alot of force on the lockring upon its initial install, but the cog can and does tighten up quite a bit due to the chain. So rather than "boot it" with your foot, just re-tighten the ring by hand after riding and you'll be good to go.
3. You can easily break a cheap lockring with a hand wrench - cheap metal is cheap metal. A Surly, Phil, or Dura-Ace are all great,and if you break those by hand, please come back and post about it.
4. As for Mr. Campy, well, those Campy parts are very, very special and take a special proprietary 10-lb. monkey wrench from Harbor Freight to install properly. Please use that special tool from now on. If you're not sure, you can call Mr. Ignoramo Campagnolo & ask him. He's at 1-800-LIL-BABY.
2. Thus, you should re-tighten your lockring after a ride or two. We can appreciate the attempt to put alot of force on the lockring upon its initial install, but the cog can and does tighten up quite a bit due to the chain. So rather than "boot it" with your foot, just re-tighten the ring by hand after riding and you'll be good to go.
3. You can easily break a cheap lockring with a hand wrench - cheap metal is cheap metal. A Surly, Phil, or Dura-Ace are all great,and if you break those by hand, please come back and post about it.
4. As for Mr. Campy, well, those Campy parts are very, very special and take a special proprietary 10-lb. monkey wrench from Harbor Freight to install properly. Please use that special tool from now on. If you're not sure, you can call Mr. Ignoramo Campagnolo & ask him. He's at 1-800-LIL-BABY.
12-26-08 | 07:12 PM
#30
partly metal, partly real
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,597
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia.
Bikes: Hummer H2
btw, #1 is sorta a tough one.
if you ride brakeless, the very last thing you do before getting off of a bike is to apply negative pressure to the cog in order to stop. theoretically, this would "undo" much of the cog tightening done during riding, thus nulling the step.
just saying.
if you ride brakeless, the very last thing you do before getting off of a bike is to apply negative pressure to the cog in order to stop. theoretically, this would "undo" much of the cog tightening done during riding, thus nulling the step.
just saying.
12-27-08 | 10:16 PM
#31
Trackie
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
you're absolutely correct. so then maybe bring a ring wrench, do some stomps forward or up a hill, then re-tighten the lockring, then go skid. point being to set the cog, and once the lockring is re-tightened to compress any gap, then the cog shouldn't come loose due to the physics of reverse threading explained above. thanks sp00ki, i didn't think of that.
