Analogous (sorry) to how digital waveforms can only approximate a continuous analog signal with stepping. A cheaper, notched seatpost only gives you a number of angles, while a Thomson will give you any possible angle between two set points.


Also, Adam, it's useful for getting the exact same angle in situations such as needing to grease your saddle rails or other saddle maintenance.

I am not a fan of the chunky adjustment of my miche supertype and i guess in that sense it was a aesthetic purchase. It was flexy at the clamp and I thought that little bit of give lent itself to a more comfortable ride (using the same Regal Ti with the Supertype vs a Thomson.)

I just used the closed end on a 10 mm wrench and it was easy. I could see it being a problem with an adjustable wrench though.

Like conditioning a brooks? I honestly don't know what other maintenance a saddle would require.

ease of adjustability + repeatability. having to wrestle with over engineered pivot bolts to hit ur known seat angle is almost as irritating as getting your stem dead nuts straight.

Zombie thread.

Love it

Life is hard.

Haha no ****.

So much isht to ponder. What does it all meeeaaannnn.....

Sometimes, posts on here are like reading service manuals for, well anything. You read how to do a procedure, and it sounds hella(wicked) complicated and time consuming. Then when you finally get to it, it takes you five minutes, and you did half of the "steps" from the manual without even thinking about it.

Yeah! The big difference! The clamps. Thompson has a great clamp. And using the 2-bolt system where one can accurately dial in the seat tilt, change it and return to the first setting exactly is a huge bonus. Allows proper setting of the most important adjustment in the bike as well as allowing for major changes for injuries, sadde sores, etc. with the ability to return to the initial setting. And this can be done on the road with no measuring tools at all.

MIcro-adjust seatposts with their click stops drive me nuts. I rode a Laprade post for about a decade on my Mooney after I broke my 2-bolt Advocet post. I managed to get the Laprade set right between clicks. It took hours. There was no way I was going to ever loosen that bolt until I had a new post in hand! Then I found the 2-bolt SunTour. I now have two custom posts with Thompson clamps. Big setback. (Thank you Thompson for making your excellent parts available to framebuilders.) And I have an SR MKE 100, that has the setback I want but has that cursed micro-adjust. First try, level, was close but I needed the nose down a hair. Next click is way down so I look like one of those hip fixers. Might have to make another aluminum micro-defeater, a rectangular aluminum sheet with a hole for the clamp bolt. Put it between the post and clamp, adjust the seat to the desired tilt and tighten the clamp hard to bed the teeth into the soft and easily bent aluminum sheet. (Make several defeaters. They are a one shot deal.)

Edit: I see "micro-adjust" used here to describe the infinitely variable clamps like the Thompson. The term started in the late '70s, early '80s describing the new click-stop seatposts with much finer clicks than the old steel posts on say a kid's bike or three speed. I used the word in that context. The Laprade is a micro-adjust. The Thompson is not.

Ben

It is a quality that drives the price you pay! And that is what the poster was talking about.

Ben

I got a decent deal on my Thomson, half off. I was really happy for a few reasons outside of any practicality the seat post actually provides (weight, adjustability). My bike happens to be black and grey in the same shade as the logo. At some point once I check a million other things off my list of bike parts for various builds I will buy a Thomson stem, for aesthetics. I'm vain, but my bike looks dope IMO.


All that aside, quality is quality.

I just picked up a first generation Campy Chorus seatpost for $50 in great shape...

Is that the single bolt post with no clicks you can feel? Aero in section? Those are nice posts! Beautiful. Single bolt, so they are not a mid-ride adjustable post, but really easy to adjust say with a wall you can put reference lines on.

Ben

I would've sold you one for $30. We've got a box of them.

Yep....




Scrod: I checked the RG website before I made a move on anything. Damnit. Oh well.

My secret stash isn't online.

Hahaha gotcha....

Well, I'm looking for a Campy chainring for the cranks I have...... 144BCD, 1/8, 44-45-46 or 47............

not so much that... it's the basic splined ones. see, hear, and feel the step to the next spline. upon torquing down the bolt, zero change in angle. worn out splines =(

I have a nice micro adjust seatpost. Too bad it is on the bike I sit down on the least.

You wouldn't happen to have 26.8 wouldya? I would buy one in a relatively short amount of time but much more than a heartbeat. If you have a Dura-Ace 26.8 post for $30 that would be even sweeter and I would snatch that in a heartbeat.

I'm liking the nitto stuff. The setback on the s84 is nice

The best tool for adjusting the old Campy 2-bolt posts is a 10mm flex head ratchet. Campy's own tool is next to worthless.

The trick to using the Campy seat tool is to lube the threads of both seatpost bolts and then adjust the front bolt using your fingers. Press down on the back of the saddle to confirm when you've got the seat at the correct angle. Once you're there, use the Campy tool to tighten the rear bolt.

As someone who raced those posts, I'll argue that. Yes, set-up was a royal pain. But far more important was that you could put that wrench in your pocket and do very accurate and repeatable adjustments out on the road. In 1976,, there were not too many other seatpost/wrench combos that could do that. (My first sentence is actually a lie. I rode a Zeus post. Same style clamp and bolts. Required the same wrench.)

Edit: That ratchet wrench is sweet. But I suspect my roadside seat adjust stops would have takes a lot longer if I used it. (Like waiting decades for it to be made and marketed.)

Ben