Making a fixed gear (new at bikes)
 

Hello,
I want to convert this bike into a fixed gear bicycle. Will this frame work? I am getting new wheels and tires (the current ones are just in pitiful condition) and the wheels will come with a flip-flop hub to aid my transition to fixed gear. What else do I need to do other than buy a new, shorter chain and new hubs?

tight pants

No offense, but find a new bike. That thing is a junker and you'll spend a lot more money than it's worth to build it up. You also aren't gonna find a replacement for that dumpy 1 piece crank.

Look for something a bit nicer if you want to convert. If not, just save some coin and buy something used.

I'd probably just spend $30 on new tires and tubes for that thing, sell it for $100, take that and your wheel/tire fund and get one of those $299-$319 flip-flop hubbed bikes from Bikes Direct. It'll probably work a lot better and be much less hassle.

what's a crank? So far as I know it will cost me around $200 to get new wheels (which I would need for any bike), new tires and a new chain. The hubs come with the wheels. So... couldn't I just do that until I get the $650 needed for the IRO I hope to get one day? Why would it be such a bad decision to use this frame? It's the only one available right now.

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed/index.html

Read, absorb, & comprehend everything on that site. Seriously. Then and only then do you post questions back here. Otherwise you will likely get wisecrack answers (like the one above).

Just about everyone started by reading that site at some point early in their journey into the single speed / fixed world. There is lots of good, unbiased info there.

If you ask a question that the late Sheldon Brown covered, you might get a silly answer.

:crash:

But - the Sheldon links above will teach you well!

Seriously, man. If you don't know what a crank is, I doubt that you know enough about bikes to pull off a conversion alone.

Save yourself some headache, drama, and lots of money and buy an off-the-shelf bike brand new and get rolling. I wouldn't even go as far as to say buy used because it is likely that you will unwittingly buy someone else's headache.

Be patient. Save your money. Consult your local bike shop. That's why they are there...to put you on the right bike for you. :D

Don't listen to some of these people. The internet is meant to be a place where people get helped and its just a shame that some don't offer it.

Back to your question. The picture is a unclear but as long as your rear axle dropouts are not vertical (which those don't appear to be) you should be fine. The spacing of the rear axle might not be ideal for fixed wheelsets, I'm not sure, but its nothing a little cold setting can't solve. Just be careful when doing so as that frame looks a bit old and may be brittle.

You're going to want to replace the one piece crank (if its a one piece) for something else which means you'll need a new bottom bracket as well as a crank (chainring included). Also new wheelset, tires, tubes, cog, lockring and chain at a minimum.

You're already looking to drop at a minimum of 300 or so (cheaper if you can source used parts). At that price, you're better off buying a new bike from bikes direct that is

Well, to be fair, I didn't say anything about an unwillingness to learn. I looked a Sheldon's site, lots of good stuff for people like me. He says that during the early 70's (which I honestly think post-dates this bike) a lot of French bikes were brought to the US, most of them not worth putting more than a few dollars into. However, he mentioned the low-end bikes as being 10-speeds, this is a 15-speed. It does have cottered cranks though.

How can I tell if this bike is worth converting? I searched Sheldon's site and I couldn't find an answer. Is there anything that a good look at the bike can tell me so far as quality is concerned?

The bike is only worth converting if you think it's worth converting. If it holds sentimental value go for it. If its just a junker that you picked up for dirt cheap then save yourself the headache and go for a complete used bike.

You say that the bike has cottered cranks. Well based on the skills that I think you have, you're going to have a difficult time swapping out cranks.

I would cut my losses now and look for something better. It'll save you money and you'll be happier in the long run.

I'll say this and move on...

There is a rampant rumor going around that ANY road bike, from any generation, in any condition can EASILY be converted to a quality fixed gear for "just a a few bucks". You know, "Just throw a fixed wheel on the back, shorten the chain and you are rollin' for $100!!"

That, my friend, is what I call The Great Hipster Myth.

Similar myths have had better men than you or I do much much more and get much less (Cali gold rush, Hollywood, Art School, ...)

well, on that note I think that it might be a better idea to get a new fixie. Although I don't see why the Great Hipster Myth shouldn't be accurate, right now I can accept the idea that such knowledge will come with time and that it might be a good idea to listen to people who have spent more time around bikes then I have.

Oh well, some of these new ones look great, and they aren't as expensive as I thought they'd be.

Can you post a better picture? I'm curious.

don't listen to this guy.


It is a cottered crank, found on older (often nice older) bikes. A simple spindle swap on the bottom bracket would allow you to use a modern square taper crank.

Post some pictures so we can ID the bike :)

Plausibility is what gives good myths their power.

Need more detailed pics to get a good idea.

Question

Are the wheels in good condition?

Does the rear hub take a cassette or screw on hub? See Sheldon's page to find out the difference.

If it is a freehub (takes a cassette), then it will cost you more to make a proper fixed wheel. As in, a new hub and rebuilding the wheel (or just a new wheel).

I had that problem, I bought an old bike, realised it was a freehub, so I turned it into a single speed, not ideal but meh

No rust on the frame?

If you're lucky, then all you'll need to do is take the rear sprockets off, screw on a track cog, put loctite and a lockring on (this is called a suicide setup, not ideal), and you're good to go.

If you need to replace components, it will get expensive (but you'll learn a bit about bikes, plus it is rewarding to put something together yourself as opposed to buying it)

eh, doesn't look sooo bad from the pic. before you dump any money or time into it, make sure the frame even fits you. all you really need to get rolling is a new rear wheel with fixed or flip flop hub (and maybe new cranks/bb).

that said, i wouldn't bother if it were me.

You can quite successfully convert that bike, and probably a lot easier than you think.

Buying two wheels is a good start. They don't have to be expensive and it's often worth talking to a local wheel builder. For example, the wheels on my Europa were built to the 'best' price and feature some reasonable quality hubs with el cheapo but reasonable rims - they weren't a 'list item' or something the wheel builder had on hand, I just asked the question, the wheel builder had a think and made a few phone calls and a week later, I had wheels. They do the job very nicely even if they aren't super duper high expense items - there's a lot of rubbish written about wheels, much of it ego driven. Although I rode for many months on my original wheels with a suicide hub (Sheldon explains), seeing your wheels are shot, getting new wheels with a track hub is a good idea.

Provided the chainline works out, you don't have to do anything about your cranks and bottom bracket except to pull it all apart and regrease it. Even bottom end setups work well enough if maintained.

Again, my Europa wore twin rings for a long time though the components were anything but bottom end. If your chainrings aren't rivetted to the crank ie, they are held on with bolts, you can take off the unused chainring and buy a set of shorter bolts - your lbs will set you right there and they'll cost you a few dollars.

Having said that, sourcing some more modern cranks and bottom bracket would probably be a good idea. Try your local velodrome or racing club and see if you can get some second hand track cranks, but even second hand road cranks will work. Ride with what you have and keep an eye open for 'the right deal'. Or you can lash out and buy new but that doesn't seem to be the thrust of your project.

Your biggest issue will be the frame. I'd be amazed if it doesn't have horizontal dropouts (check Sheldon again) so that isn't a problem. The big question is - how good is this frame and how much should you spend on it? That's something only you can answer. The photo suggests this is a low end bike so the frame is probably straight guage tubing (rather than butted) and probably low quality steel. This means it's heavier and it won't ride as nicely as better frame. But many of those old bikes rode fairly well, even the low end stuff, plenty good enough for an urban hack.

The project can be staged - you don't have to do it all in one hit.

My Europa started her fixed gear life with a simple removal of the gears, spinning on a track hub and getting the chain line right. The second phase occured when I bought the above mentioned wheels with a track hub at the back. Phase three involved removing the spare chain ring and a few other mods. All this occured over six months and it kept the costs manageable but I was able to ride and enjoy my bike throughout that time. You don't have to go out and do it all in one hit. Phase four is yet to come and will involve a new crankset and bottom bracket, but I'm also looking closely at the new Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub so that's probably when I'll lash out and build some really good wheels. See, the project continues and in the meantime, I'm riding and enjoying my bike.

You can't put a value on building up a project bike - it's a great experience. Sure, you can buy an elcheapo thing that a factory put together and if money/image is all that counts, there's a lot to be said for that but don't underestimate the personal value of building it yourself. The ugliest bike in the world can be a thing of beauty to the bloke who built it.

The danger is spending too much money ie, spending more than the end product is worth to you. You can compensate by either building a low end bike that will later serve as a hack, or by buying good components that can migrate to a good frame when one finally comes up. The middle (safe) road actually is to buy the elcheapo bike the others have referred you to.

Whatever you do, don't spend money you can't afford and enjoy what you build.

Richard

See!! It's soooo easy! Especially for a guy who doesn't know what cranks are nor has any tools.

You guys are crazy.

Maybe he just wants to ride and skip the whole "Learn how to be a Bike Mechanic" deal. Everybody doesn't want to learn. I once knew a professional BMX flatlander (this dude was in XGames...twice) that couldn't even install a set of brakes. He even worked at a bike shop.

My point being, everyone doesn't want to learn how to be a full-on mechanic (which we all know will be necessary to successfully convert this bike) to enjoy their bike. Everyone knows that this bike will require A LOT of skill, patience, luck, hope, work, and some cash. Everyone except the most important person...redcannon, the guy who owns the bike and will have to pay for the project in time and cash.

It looks like a raleigh.. grand prix possibly? It looks like it has that three armed cottered crank dealie..

he said he was willing to learn. You didn't know what cranks were at some point too.

@ the OP: You can surely use that frame. Start by stripping that bike of everything that you don't need. Buy a set of wheels. get some tires, tubes, new chain. shorten your chain, and get rolling. Don't sink a ton of money into it, and see if you like riding fixed before you put a ton into it.

fixed gear bikes are simple things. learn to do the wrenching yourself (using sheldon brown, and Parktools has a bunch of tutorials), and when in doubt go to your local bike shop. They're there to help.

happy riding!

Well, if that's the case. He's going to learn a hard lesson starting with that bike. That being that he should quit now and start with a different bike. If he tosses that bike and starts with a better foundation he will be ahead of the game.

Just like he can choose between dozens of parts for his conversion, he can also choose a different frame/bike as his starting point.

In my opinion, he would be building a castle on a foundation of sand using that bike.

And, since you made it personal, I knew what cranks were when I was about 8. Some people have been playing tennis, skateboarding, or musical instruments all their lives since they were kids. I've been into bikes.

You've had some good responses on here. A short answer.

Yes that bike would convert fine. The cheapest you could make that bike a fixed gear is by replacing the rear hub. $40-50 hub and cog.

That is a starting point. Then you can build from there. I think your priority would be a crank.

Judging from the photo, you should ride that bike down to the nearest river and throw it in, it is junk.

Your time and money will be much better spent on buying a complete fixed gear bike.

Search for a thread called "Raleigh BB Hell" and you will quickly see the quagmire you will be getting yourself into....

THE ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS THE ONE THAI DOES NOT GET ASKED.
This forum is for sharing.

I was just sayin'. It's the same thing with me, just a lot of people are just starting out, and therefore haven't worked out the vocab yet. Didn't mean to offend. :love:

Dude, I love your moxie. Hell yeah, go for it! Maybe not that frame but plan on fixing your bikes yourself.

Do you have access to tools? Like have you worked on cars or anything like that before? Does your pops have tools? Older brother?

I mostly use metric wrenches everything from 9mm to 16mm and way larger for the headset (largest adjustable wrench you can find). I also love shop manuals. I get mine from used book stores. Anything that says How to fix a bike. The park tools blue book is a brand new bike manual that you can get at any bike shop.. But I like the vintage books because I ride vintage bikes.

Then get a new wheel set (get the weinmann deep vs on eaby for 169 SHIPPED..great deals) (check with your LBS (Local Bike Shop) to see if they'll build you one for cheaper than that, sometimes you'll get lucky). I'd replace the crank and bottom bracket (bearings that keep the crank moving) with low end sugino cranks (50) and a low end tange bb (20) (check out bens cycles for a great order shop).

You're going to need some special tools mainly a crank puller for your specific crank, a bottom bracket tool (it's like a special socket for bottom brackets) they also come in multiple sizes so get the right one, and a chain tool (these are pretty much all the same). Shop around for these tools you can score good deals on ebay/google shopping.

OK then take out the old crank (you'll need the crank puller to take her out..), take out the bottom bracket ( be careful sometimes the non drive side of the bottom bracket is hard to remove, see sheldon's site for how to make a tool you may need) take off the wheels, get rid of the back brake, and take a day off. Buy a few beers (steal a few beers from dad, today you are a man)

Then do one thing at a time. BuY A nice sized bucket of grease (I use high temp wheel bearing grease that I get at the auto parts stores but to each there own). and start installing the bottom bracket. I recommend knowing the appropriate torques for each part and buying a torque wrench but I know a bunch of peps that don't use torque wrenches. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T Cross thread anything. Liberally grease everything and use a very light hand (I hand tighten everything first if you can't get it started by hand it's either dirty or it's crossed). USE YOUR BRAIN.

Putting cranks on are way easier than taking them off just follow the torque specs that come with the parts. Then put your back wheel on but don't tighten too much. Then your going to mock up your chain. First try to figure out how many links your going to need to take out (Pull the wheel to the rear of the drop outs and tighten loosely then wrap the chain around the front cog and bring the chain around the back cog. Mark of the extra chain and remove with chain tool.) You may need to do this twice once to get in the ball park once to get it right on. Then you're going to have to check for chain line. You want the two cogs to be lined up as perfectly as possible. This is a total pain in the ass sometimes, you're going to need a verier caliber (I can't spell for ****e) again follow sheldon's site again. You may need to put the front chain ring (cog) either on the back side or the front side of the crank spider. Generally this is enough. But sometimes you'll need chain ring spacers, and if you need chain ring spacers go talk to the LBS (LOCAL BIKE SHOP). Hell get a job at the LBS!!! You could be the cleaning up boy! If you need the spacers go to the LBS, look pathetic but super interested in bikes (point out a few cool bikes in the store, talk to the mechanics, inquire about work), tell them this is your first bike you're making and your totally interested in bikes etc.. And say you need some spacers but you don't know exactly which size you need to get the chain line perfect. Can you help me choose them? They'll do the measurement get the right part and then you can take it home and finish. Get everything assembled get everything torqued correctly. AND RIDE AROUND. Do you hear any sounds? etc..

That's pretty much it. You get the chain line correct, you're money! Then you can do each little upgrade one step at a time. ONe thing you should do is also do a headset (the part that allows you to turn the front wheel it's a double bearing assembly) adjustment (again go to sheldon or your shop manuals).

So yeah, I mean really it is as easy as getting a new back tire and a chain but you also have to know how to put that stuff together. CHAIN LINE = #1 important thing about making your bike a fixed gear (NEVER CALL IT A FIXIE, would you call your country a cu^*..get my drift).

MY ADVICE. Keep that beater and ride it as is. Ride it every day and ride until you get your other bike finished. Having two bikes is a necessity if you want to always be able to ride your bike. They brake sometimes! Go to craigslist, get a frame. I generally post what I am looking for in a Want to Buy add. I'm 5'7 I want a 52 to 54 cm frame, IT NEEDS TO HAVE HORIZONTAL DROP OUTS, Paint can suck.. Got 50 bucks do you have it? Ask your buddies where they get bikes in your town.. As for Good brands there are a lot but in older bikes.. don't get most schwinns (except the paramount or the madison), fujis are awesome, anything Japanese sounding is usually good (takara, lotus, nishiki, miyata..etc..), Italian sounding bikes are good too. Look for lugged frame (google lugged bike frame..too hard to explain). Go to bike mechanics forum they are less judgmental and only ask one step at a time (my bottom bracket is stuck, why is it stuck).

Ok, well this is way too long, but I wish you the best and don't let anyone tell you you can't do it! Just keep practicing.

Lol.

The one where the guy can't get a wrong size spindle to fit into his bb and then talks about using a dremel to shave off the cups instead of finding one that is the correct size, then gets it to work but doesn't say how?

All you have to do is pull out the spindle from bottom bracket, take to bike shop/coop/friend with parts stash/whatever and find one that matches, but with square taper, then put it back together.