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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

New Frame off CraigsList. Worth it? Good frame?

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Old 01-30-09 | 10:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by efi
Thanks. I'll seek one out. I did see one out in California last summer but all the frames were $500+, which is way out of my price range. They were beautiful frames, but still... I'll look around here.
Yeah, $500 is steep but cash is king my brotha! There are a lot of shops that are being snobs about stuff. A LOT of them. But most are willing to negotiate a bit.

As the saying goes: Good Bikes Aren't Cheap. Cheap Bikes Aren't Good.

When building bikes from the ground up you are gonna pay in either money OR time. Time hunting for the right part that's the right size for the right price.

I've got well over $1,000 into my latest ride and I'm not done yet...

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Old 01-30-09 | 07:56 PM
  #27  
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The TA crank is probably worth what you payed for the frame. If it were a size bigger, I would beat you over the head for it. It will make a sweet conversion, as long as you can work around the french threading. Velo-Orange will be your friend, especially if you have a french threaded bottom bracket.
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Old 01-31-09 | 03:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by carleton
My unsolicited suggestion if you are building a fixed gear would be to start with a track specific frame which will eliminate chainline and dropout issues. There are lots of beautiful old and new track frames out there.
chainline has nothing to do with the frame, it depends on the rear wheel, crank, and bottom bracket. Also, "track specific" frames will have track geometry and won't be drilled for brakes and will generally make a miserable road-going fixed-gear for a first-time rider.

OP, next time you are checking out a used frame, look for cracks in the paint around the head tube. Specifically, check for cracked paint on the top side of the top tube and down tube directly behind the head tube lugs because this usually indicates a crash. If you don't know how to look for these things, do not buy used stuff off craigslist because you are going to get screwed sooner or later.
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Old 01-31-09 | 12:36 PM
  #29  
efi
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Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
OP, next time you are checking out a used frame, look for cracks in the paint around the head tube. Specifically, check for cracked paint on the top side of the top tube and down tube directly behind the head tube lugs because this usually indicates a crash. If you don't know how to look for these things, do not buy used stuff off craigslist because you are going to get screwed sooner or later.
This is definitely a mistake I don't want to make twice. I'll keep my eyes peeled for those signs. Thanks.
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Old 01-31-09 | 12:55 PM
  #30  
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i swear, no one researches anything ever.
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Old 01-31-09 | 02:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
chainline has nothing to do with the frame, it depends on the rear wheel, crank, and bottom bracket.
Road bike bottom bracket spindles are longer than track spindles. But also road bikes generally have 130mm rear dropout spacing. Track bikes have 120mm rear dropout spacing.

Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
Also, "track specific" frames will have track geometry and won't be drilled for brakes and will generally make a miserable road-going fixed-gear for a first-time rider.
That's a function of the fork, not the frame.

That being said, if he's going to replace the BB and the cranks and chainring...then all he's got is a used frame, fork, and headset. Everything else will have to be purchased a-la-carte.

My point is that there are so many track/fixed/SS frames being manufactured these days (seems that every major and manufacturer makes one). Just start there, ride today and eliminate the wait and high expense. THAT is good advice for a first-time rider.

Save the project for your #2 bike.
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Old 01-31-09 | 05:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by carleton
road bikes generally have 130mm rear dropout spacing. Track bikes have 120mm rear dropout spacing.
you're assuming he'll be using spacers; he won't. no one would use spacers in this case-- 5mm isn't much for a rear triangle to move.
in this case, chainline isn't an issue.
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Old 01-31-09 | 05:51 PM
  #33  
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Build your own bike! It's way more satisfying!
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