Redline 925
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 10
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From: Eugene, OR
Bikes: Specialized Hardrock Comp & Redline 925
Redline 925
Any one out there ever ride a Redline 925? I can get one for 475, plus the shop will buy back the stock wheels and let me pay the diff for a set of hand builts. Is this a good deal?
https://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/925.html
https://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/925.html
#3
I went and test road one at the lbs. I just didn't feel it...Hard to explain really, it's a nice enough bike. Sounds like a good deal financially, if you like the bike and it's w/in your budget I say go for it.
#4
I had a 925 and I really liked it but I got it for $300 very lightly used. I then put better wheels and crank on it.
I would call it a comfortable ride and a great entry level bike. It's a more relaxed geometry so 50 miles is easy.
I got a different frame and sold the 925.
To answer the question it's not a good deal. Not for a new one. Better to buy used.
I would call it a comfortable ride and a great entry level bike. It's a more relaxed geometry so 50 miles is easy.
I got a different frame and sold the 925.
To answer the question it's not a good deal. Not for a new one. Better to buy used.
#6
Any one out there ever ride a Redline 925? I can get one for 475, plus the shop will buy back the stock wheels and let me pay the diff for a set of hand builts. Is this a good deal?
https://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/925.html
https://www.redlinebicycles.com/adultbikes/925.html
#7
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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Here is my 925 with a rack and a few other things. As far as an all around practical bike, this is the way to go. Everything fits it. Its comfortable. Very little, or in my case, no toe overlap. It gets ****ing old having to work around your bike to get what you want. This is not the case on the 925.
Plus, if you get a 2009, it doesn't have the gay headbadge of the 2008.
#11
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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I stopped caring about the 925 when it no longer shipped with mustache bars. It totally lost its soul.
#12
That all depends on how you have your particular moustache bars set up. If you have the brake levers at the ends, the way Jamis sells their bikes, then they work pretty much as cruiser bars.
If however you set them up with road levers more towards the center

Then you have many more hand positions. More on par with drops than bullhorns. Riding on the ends, where the bars are parallel to the top tube is upright and cruiser like. The hooks are reasonable aggressive, but still give you immediate access to the brakes. The hoods are really comfy and good for long distances, and then by the stem can allow for an aero style tuck.
Much better than the simple 'horns or flats'
If however you set them up with road levers more towards the center
Then you have many more hand positions. More on par with drops than bullhorns. Riding on the ends, where the bars are parallel to the top tube is upright and cruiser like. The hooks are reasonable aggressive, but still give you immediate access to the brakes. The hoods are really comfy and good for long distances, and then by the stem can allow for an aero style tuck.
Much better than the simple 'horns or flats'
#16
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
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From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
I'd get the Redline for that price. If you want to change the bars, that's an inexpensive and quick switch. Keep the bullhorns; you may want to change back later.
Get the wheels retensioned by the bike shop. Not a bad idea for any wheelset.
Get the wheels retensioned by the bike shop. Not a bad idea for any wheelset.
#17
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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Yer legs climb hills, not your handlebars...

I'd get the Redline for that price. If you want to change the bars, that's an inexpensive and quick switch. Keep the bullhorns; you may want to change back later.
Get the wheels retensioned by the bike shop. Not a bad idea for any wheelset.
Get the wheels retensioned by the bike shop. Not a bad idea for any wheelset.
#20
Turgid Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 171
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Bikes: Salsa Casseroll, Soma Rush, Fuji Tahoe 29er Pro
i got mine (a '07) for 400$. as an introduction to fixed gear, it was a decent bike. as something that i would keep for years or buy again: an emphatic no. it was great for what it was, but i also have to say that i hate the new colors. plus, unless the quality of what the "custom shop built wheels" are really that much better, you are getting royally screwed.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Brooklyn finally.
Bikes: Bianchi San Jose, fixed
#22
I live in a bicycle.
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 231
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From: FLOR-DUH
Bikes: 1980 Motobecane Le Champion, 1972 Schwinn Super Sport, 1985 Nishiki Cresta GT
Excellent rendering of florida beeftech.
Will someone please enlighten me as to why your handlebars climb hills? I understand from a comfort position but that's about all it seems to me.
farley, yes I do ride fixed.
Will someone please enlighten me as to why your handlebars climb hills? I understand from a comfort position but that's about all it seems to me.
farley, yes I do ride fixed.
#23
This debate is nonsensical.
Drop bars with hoods is the best setup...period. This is not even a debatable issue for road cyclists...only here where fashion usually grossly overpowers function. People who find drops innefective for climbing are probably not using hooded brakelevers.
Hoods+drops will give you the hand positions that you get with 'horns, plus an additional aero position. If you can't climb effectively with drops then you aren't doing it right. Install some hooded levers and learn how to use them.
Drop bars with hoods is the best setup...period. This is not even a debatable issue for road cyclists...only here where fashion usually grossly overpowers function. People who find drops innefective for climbing are probably not using hooded brakelevers.
Hoods+drops will give you the hand positions that you get with 'horns, plus an additional aero position. If you can't climb effectively with drops then you aren't doing it right. Install some hooded levers and learn how to use them.
#24
#25
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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This debate is nonsensical.
Drop bars with hoods is the best setup...period. This is not even a debatable issue for road cyclists...only here where fashion usually grossly overpowers function. People who find drops innefective for climbing are probably not using hooded brakelevers.
Hoods+drops will give you the hand positions that you get with 'horns, plus an additional aero position. If you can't climb effectively with drops then you aren't doing it right. Install some hooded levers and learn how to use them.
Drop bars with hoods is the best setup...period. This is not even a debatable issue for road cyclists...only here where fashion usually grossly overpowers function. People who find drops innefective for climbing are probably not using hooded brakelevers.
Hoods+drops will give you the hand positions that you get with 'horns, plus an additional aero position. If you can't climb effectively with drops then you aren't doing it right. Install some hooded levers and learn how to use them.
well, 1, you stated it as a fact, which is annoying, but its the internet, so we'll let that slide
2, if your drops dont help you climb hills, your drops are set up incorrectly.
2, if your drops dont help you climb hills, your drops are set up incorrectly.
Guess what? Drop bars with hoods is not always the best setup, period.
only here where fashion usually grossly overpowers function
trolls



