going faster on my fixed gear
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
going faster on my fixed gear
Hey guys i'm running a 39/15 on a 172.5 campy crank, what gear ratio can i change to so i can go faster. if i change to a 49/18, would i be able to go faster, skid and would it be easier to pedal? Would a 49 it on my crank? What happens if you have longer chain inches? i'm having a little trouble finding the right gear ratio for myself, and understanding the chain inches and what it does. thank for any input.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 916
Likes: 17
From: Houston, Tx
Bikes: Surly Bridge Club with CYC motor, 1992 Miyata 914, SOMA double-cross
Hey guys i'm running a 39/15 on a 172.5 campy crank, what gear ratio can i change to so i can go faster. if i change to a 49/18, would i be able to go faster, skid and would it be easier to pedal? Would a 49 it on my crank? What happens if you have longer chain inches? i'm having a little trouble finding the right gear ratio for myself, and understanding the chain inches and what it does. thank for any input.
By the way, crank length has no affect on the speed calculation.
Bob
Last edited by wrobertdavis; 03-07-09 at 06:54 AM.
#4
Use Sheldon Brown's calculator at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/By the way, crank length has no affect on the speed calculation.
Bob
Bob
#5
RABBIT...Super awesome gear calculator
I ride @ about 70 inches here in NewYork, and its a little slow, but I can really stop.
I ride @ about 70 inches here in NewYork, and its a little slow, but I can really stop.
#6
.


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Hey guys i'm running a 39/15 on a 172.5 campy crank, what gear ratio can i change to so i can go faster. if i change to a 49/18, would i be able to go faster, skid and would it be easier to pedal? Would a 49 it on my crank? What happens if you have longer chain inches? i'm having a little trouble finding the right gear ratio for myself, and understanding the chain inches and what it does. thank for any input.
I ride a 42-15 mostly. It's high enough for the flats but I can still climb the many hills around here. If you have fewer hills or they aren't too steep, go higher.
Changing cogs is cheaper and easier than changing chainrings and you the difference is more dramatic. Even a one tooth difference is quite noticeable on the cog.
Higher gearing is more difficult to skid with but I recommend having brakes on the bike anyways. You don't have to use them but they are awful nice just in case.
Sheldonbrown.com Read all of it. He's got big sections devoted to singlespeed and fixed gear and explains gear inches, gain ratios and just about everything you need to know.
#7
It's not odd numbers you want, its prime numbers. For once all that stupid elementary school math comes in useful.
#8
Raving looney
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON, Canada
Bikes: 70s Leader Precision w/Shimano 600 (road), IRO Rob Roy (Fixed)
The gear you're running now will likely be the easiest to start off with and skid with, but not to go fast - there's a compromise you'll have to make.
I'd go ahead and do as said above and swap your chainring to a 42, or a 44/46 kind of range, that way you leave yourself open to a nice range of ratios by only needing to change the back cog in the future.
I run 46:15 on 23c tyres with 170 cranks and it's a pretty tall gear (80GI?), I started with a 17 on the back which was nice - I was riding 52:19 on my roadbike for a long time, which was around the same range. Use the gear calculators and figure out what you want to run, I guess. I'd go with 60-65GI, or if you're feeling adventurous 65-70GI to start off with, ride it for a bit while you get comfortable with the resistance/skid/skipping on that gear, and then see how you feel.
I'd go ahead and do as said above and swap your chainring to a 42, or a 44/46 kind of range, that way you leave yourself open to a nice range of ratios by only needing to change the back cog in the future.
I run 46:15 on 23c tyres with 170 cranks and it's a pretty tall gear (80GI?), I started with a 17 on the back which was nice - I was riding 52:19 on my roadbike for a long time, which was around the same range. Use the gear calculators and figure out what you want to run, I guess. I'd go with 60-65GI, or if you're feeling adventurous 65-70GI to start off with, ride it for a bit while you get comfortable with the resistance/skid/skipping on that gear, and then see how you feel.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 916
Likes: 17
From: Houston, Tx
Bikes: Surly Bridge Club with CYC motor, 1992 Miyata 914, SOMA double-cross
Agreed. I was just saying that you plug any crank length you wish into sheldon's calculator and it will not change the speed calculation if that's the output format you choose.
Bob
#12
chickenosaurus
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 2010 Motobecane Team Track, 1997 GT Edge, 2012 Kilo TT Stripper
no need to get a prime number chainring if you want skid patches, find the one that works for you, then spin the wheel around one or two links every once in a while.
#13
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,926
Likes: 986
From: New Zealand
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Trek Marlin 6, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Newbie.
39/15 = 2.6
48/18 = 2.666
2.6666/2.6 = 1.025, 2.5% faster
So if you're going 25kph at a good cadence now you'll only be going 25.6 with the new gearing.
43/15 will put you at 2.86666 which is a 10% improvement.
This is assuming you are spinning out your gear. If you're not then you need to find some hills to make your legs bigger.
39/15 = 2.6
48/18 = 2.666
2.6666/2.6 = 1.025, 2.5% faster
So if you're going 25kph at a good cadence now you'll only be going 25.6 with the new gearing.
43/15 will put you at 2.86666 which is a 10% improvement.
This is assuming you are spinning out your gear. If you're not then you need to find some hills to make your legs bigger.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
learn how to spin faster
I need a higher gear too (SS), but since I'm waiting for money for a fixed gear hub I'm doing everything with 44x18. I used to ride 46x18 on my previous bicycle.
Only had this one for about a month, but today I went 40km/h on the flat, which is a 130rpm, where I used to spin out at 30km/h.
I need a higher gear too (SS), but since I'm waiting for money for a fixed gear hub I'm doing everything with 44x18. I used to ride 46x18 on my previous bicycle.
Only had this one for about a month, but today I went 40km/h on the flat, which is a 130rpm, where I used to spin out at 30km/h.
#15
click. click click.
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Bikes: Leader 725TR https://velospace.org/node/23532
Okay.. what range of Gear Inches would be best for fast acceleration? I was thinking a 1:3 (48/16) ratio which is rated as 81 gear inches with a 27" diameter drive wheel would be pretty good.. no? That's high and it seems like people advise against being that high.
Can someone explain how it works? Higher Gear inches vs. Lower gear inches? I'm looking for acceleration, not necissarily top speed. Also if you can explain the difficulty of pedaling it will be with it also?
My impression on gearing:
if you have a 1:3 ratio 16t cog/48t chainring you pedal one revolution the cog rotates 3 times, thus the drivewheel rotates 3 times. So, if you had a 1:4 or 1:5 etc, one rotation = 4, 5 revolutions respectively. I would imagine that being harder to start from stop. Am I right? Also, I would imagine your top speed would be reduced...wait, would it be increased? If you have a 1:1 you would have to pedal once to move one revolution (not as far as 1:3) so, top speed would be greatly reduced and it would be easy to start pedaling. I dont know what that would do to acceleration though.
I live in orange county/ huntington beach california not many hills, mostly flat land etc. I want to be able to accelerate, skid, stop etc..
Can someone please explain this stuff to me!?
Thanks,
Ericson Calderon
Can someone explain how it works? Higher Gear inches vs. Lower gear inches? I'm looking for acceleration, not necissarily top speed. Also if you can explain the difficulty of pedaling it will be with it also?
My impression on gearing:
if you have a 1:3 ratio 16t cog/48t chainring you pedal one revolution the cog rotates 3 times, thus the drivewheel rotates 3 times. So, if you had a 1:4 or 1:5 etc, one rotation = 4, 5 revolutions respectively. I would imagine that being harder to start from stop. Am I right? Also, I would imagine your top speed would be reduced...wait, would it be increased? If you have a 1:1 you would have to pedal once to move one revolution (not as far as 1:3) so, top speed would be greatly reduced and it would be easy to start pedaling. I dont know what that would do to acceleration though.
I live in orange county/ huntington beach california not many hills, mostly flat land etc. I want to be able to accelerate, skid, stop etc..
Can someone please explain this stuff to me!?
Thanks,
Ericson Calderon
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
if you want acceleration you need lower gear ratios
but what a low gear ratio is is very personal... I think most utility bicycles here have 46/18, so that's pretty safe
but if it's all flats 48/18 would still be okay
if you ride a lot those gearings will still be a bit too low
but what a low gear ratio is is very personal... I think most utility bicycles here have 46/18, so that's pretty safe
but if it's all flats 48/18 would still be okay
if you ride a lot those gearings will still be a bit too low
#17
you have to be super strong to accelerate from a stop with 80 g/i. 65 g/i is more normal for super quick acceleration, 60 if you're weak.
70-75 will get you a higher speed at a given rpm. i'd suggest 60 if you're weak and 65-70 if you're in shape or strong.
70-75 will get you a higher speed at a given rpm. i'd suggest 60 if you're weak and 65-70 if you're in shape or strong.
#19
click. click click.
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Bikes: Leader 725TR https://velospace.org/node/23532
My legs are strong. So, higher gear inches = faster acceleration?
and a lower gear ratio means a smaller cog with a bigger crank or chain ring, right? People say "Three to one" when it's actually 1:3. So smaller gear ratio to a "three to one" would be a "four to one" 1:4, right? Because if you went by an actual 3:1 a 2:1 ratio would be smaller. Does anyone get this confused over ratios? Ugh. haha.
and a lower gear ratio means a smaller cog with a bigger crank or chain ring, right? People say "Three to one" when it's actually 1:3. So smaller gear ratio to a "three to one" would be a "four to one" 1:4, right? Because if you went by an actual 3:1 a 2:1 ratio would be smaller. Does anyone get this confused over ratios? Ugh. haha.
#20
what speed are you accelerating to and from? lower gear inches is faster acceleration always- until you can't spin any faster.
no. the ratio doesn't care how big which one is, it cares about the difference between them. it's not 1:4 it's 1/4. for lower gear inches you make the chainring SMALLER or the cog larger. more gear inches is the opposite.
no. the ratio doesn't care how big which one is, it cares about the difference between them. it's not 1:4 it's 1/4. for lower gear inches you make the chainring SMALLER or the cog larger. more gear inches is the opposite.
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Oh my god. Everyone is way over complicating this. Figure out your ratios. If you can't do that, you failed 8th grade math.
I mean, it's like a geared bike. When you make the chain go onto a smaller gear in the back, it gets harder to pedal but you can go faster. If you make it go to a bigger gear, it gets easier to pedal, but you can't go as fast. ugh.
I mean, it's like a geared bike. When you make the chain go onto a smaller gear in the back, it gets harder to pedal but you can go faster. If you make it go to a bigger gear, it gets easier to pedal, but you can't go as fast. ugh.
#25
I used to run a 46x18 which is close to you 39x15. I would top out too easily and bounce around in my saddle with the 46x18 setup. Now I can go a little bit faster and skid/stop still without trying too hard with the 48x17.
Changing a cog is a lot easier and less expensive then changing chainrings. Try a 14t cog, maybe you will like that a little better.
Changing a cog is a lot easier and less expensive then changing chainrings. Try a 14t cog, maybe you will like that a little better.




