it means he is still growing lol

that frame is way too small for you, go to a pro shop and get a real assessment of fit, god knows you shouldnt rely on some of these posts especially the old guy who claims to know more by virtue of being old and unable to change

i mean really, one hand position? i find several on bullhorns and tehy are among the most limited bars, and he came up with his perfect only use this hand position with much thought and reflection gawd what a joke.

reallly guy, if u plan to cycle a lot then you need a fit, or at least use the calculator that poster put up, really.

u r young but not dumb enough to trust inexperienced and delusional people on the internet right?

pro up your game, you dont need to be a pro to take advantage of the knowledge/

and really, if good sense cannot prevail let your shame be your guide, i'm a girl, a cyclist and a fan of fixed gears

you look stupid. fix it

and that frame is my size, you are more than 6 inches taller than me. gawdalmighty

lots of kids buy a frame that looks cool to them, svelte means not too big because big is awkward, i'm sure that bike feels fine to you but you wont feel wrong until you've actually ridden some and then its damage done

go ask the road forum, they put in general way more miles on, and have the knowledge passed on from the greatest riders in the world. you really do look like a newb that last picked a bike out in the 4th grade. and it isnt just about looks, you wont feel uncomfortable until it's too late

if you actually ride your bike

You must not know that its pretty common for roadies to size themselves up to 3cm smaller on a bike to get an aggressive fit. There are some mighty big generalizations made in your response, let the guy ask questions, if you can't answer them, shut the **** up. How about that?


One drawback to a threadless system is you have to dial it in correctly the first time, then that's it. At least a threaded system will allow you to raise and lower the quill indefinitely. I suggested that you buy a new fork, measure and cut it with a few more inches on the steerer, space it and flip the stem, which should give you a more upright position, keeping your back from getting sore. You probably don't need to lower/raise your seat post.

Do yourself a favor and at least fit yourself with a fit calculator, I posted one earlier. That way you will have an idea of where to go, as it gives you important measurements like BB to saddle, saddle to bars, top tube dimensions, etc.

There are different fit styles, and his bike would be too small on ALL of them. The top tube on that bike is plain too short. Period. If he put drops on that he would be screwed.


Thats not true either. Most road bike quill stems(unless you buy the nitto techtronic) have a very short adjustment range...maby 4-5cm at most. You can get way more adjustment from a threadless using spacers and flipping the stem. Also, he doesnt need a new fork with a longer steerer tube, that will make his reach SHORTER. He needs a frame that fits, so stop giving him bad advice.

If I actually ride my bike?
I use it for transportation, so yeah, I ride my ****ing bike.
Do you ride a bike? Or are you just coming here looking for HoTTiE fiXeD gEAr GuYz**********

There's no way I'd go above a 53cm Pake.

And the top tube length is 10mm longer and the standover is 0.6" taller.
Is this really going to make that big of a difference here?

And to those asking me to go get a pro fit, not going to happen.. Not spending $500 to spend $500

The top tube would be longer, however the head tube would be taller as well. So you would be more stretched out AS WELL as there would be less drop from your saddle to the bars.

The idea with a performance oriented bike like a track bike or road bike is that it's designed to maximize the amount of power you can put to the wheels by lining everything up so all the points of contact between you and the bike maximize your biomechanical efficiency. In that light, it doesn't make sense to ride a bike that is going to tire you out by forcing you to use your energy to adapt to poor positioning.

Now mind you, I'm not weighing in on whether the bike does or doesn't fit you, that's simply the rationale for WHY fit is so important

Actually, this is pretty incorrect. An aggressive fit on a road bike is longer (and lower) not smaller.

Clearly, I'm in the minority here but I don't think that bike looks so-incredibly-super-small for you. Would a 53 be better? Maybe. Is it comfortable now? Yes. Will people who see you riding it in person think it looks ridiculously small? Probably not. The truth is that the vast majority of posters here have no idea what they're talking about and should not be listened to about anything

Is this in English?

Put the frame/fork on craigslist for 175.
getting a 53cm pake.

THREAD

Yay.

This is key here. I have two bikes that are both 58CM C-C, but one has a longer top tube and is comfterable. The other one is shorter, and is very painful to ride for long distances. You can get stems to adjust the height of your bars, but you can't make a too short top tube longer very well.

If I'm riding a 54cm now and want to buy a new frame that comes in 53 or 56, I'm assuming it's a better idea to get the 53, correct?

Do the research. find out the measurements for the frame, then go by that.

But couldn't a longer stem help make up for a too-short top tube?

Not without going over the axel