kilo tt : which parts to keep / swap?
#26
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I have had a kilo for two years now and all that changed was a new saddle, new tires (kept stock tires for front wheel, got 25 for the rear) and I threw on a front brake and fenders...I am going to swap the handlebars and chainring pretty soon, but you know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it...
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It was a tight fit. The front didn't fit under the brake, so I had to cut it (still doesn't extend past the fork). I had to use zip ties/wire to attach it, but it does fit. I can't run greater than a 23 on the front wheel or greater than 25 on the rear, but that isn't a big deal...My camera is broken, but I will try to get a picture up when I have a chance.
#29
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bumping this old(er) thread for some second opinions:
cranks: sugino RD's (w/ sugino 103mm bb) or the stock Truvativ Touro's (w/ stock bb)?
also, anyone know of a good source for cheap forged black unbranded threadless stems?
cranks: sugino RD's (w/ sugino 103mm bb) or the stock Truvativ Touro's (w/ stock bb)?
also, anyone know of a good source for cheap forged black unbranded threadless stems?
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Just keep the cranks you already have, there's nothing wrong with them at all and I doubt you would notice any difference in performance or feel or anything if you were to get the RDs unless you're looking to change the color of them.
#31
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imho If you are going to swap out all of those parts maybe it would be a good idea to start with a new frame?
You can get a Tifosi track frame from wiggle for about $240 and add/build it up with the parts you want ymmv
You can get a Tifosi track frame from wiggle for about $240 and add/build it up with the parts you want ymmv
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I have had a kilo TT pro for about 6 months of fairly heavy abuse. I would wager that I have about 1000 miles on it, through all kinds of weather.
When I bought it, I had a LBS strip it down, lube everything, and reassemble. I replaced the pedals and the lockring. Flipped and chopped the bars, and everything else is stock.
It still rides smooth, no mechanical problems.
I think you should only replace components that you want to because of fit or aesthetics.
Ride it 'till something breaks.
When I bought it, I had a LBS strip it down, lube everything, and reassemble. I replaced the pedals and the lockring. Flipped and chopped the bars, and everything else is stock.
It still rides smooth, no mechanical problems.
I think you should only replace components that you want to because of fit or aesthetics.
Ride it 'till something breaks.
#33
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i asked cuz i already have all the parts mentioned:
bought the kilo complete off CL for $250 and already have RD's on another ride. just wondering what people's opinions were about performance & quality between those cranks and the truvativs, particularly on the kilo, and whether i should swap 'em out at all.
also, any leads on unbranded black forged stems? that one's more for change of length color and look.
bought the kilo complete off CL for $250 and already have RD's on another ride. just wondering what people's opinions were about performance & quality between those cranks and the truvativs, particularly on the kilo, and whether i should swap 'em out at all.
also, any leads on unbranded black forged stems? that one's more for change of length color and look.
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i don't have personal experience with the rd cranks but i did ride the xd model which i think is comparable. they were okay, not spectacular. if i were to choose between the square tapered suginos and the isis truvativs i would go with the isis setup. there's some debate that the squared taper bb's are better suited than isis bb's for urban riding/skidding but i don't skid and i like the increased stiffness of the isis bb.
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i don't have personal experience with the rd cranks but i did ride the xd model which i think is comparable. they were okay, not spectacular. if i were to choose between the square tapered suginos and the isis truvativs i would go with the isis setup. there's some debate that the squared taper bb's are better suited than isis bb's for urban riding/skidding but i don't skid and i like the increased stiffness of the isis bb.
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I think it's ~US$308 + shipping, but still, valid point.
#37
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again, that would be a valid point, if i didn't i already have all the parts (complete kilo tt + extra RD cranks). as far as the cranks go, it's not a matter of purchasing or cost, i'm just trying to figure out which one to use out of the ones i already own.
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I think its gonna boil down to your own preference and which ones you want on which bike. Just know the BBs are not compatible so you would have to remove the BB off the complete kilo and get the appropriate bb (103mm) for the RDs you already have. Question is are you willing to go through the trouble of swapping if both cranksets are equal in quality?? That's up to you and that's what everyone is here telling you that you need to make that decision yourself.
#39
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I think its gonna boil down to your own preference and which ones you want on which bike. Just know the BBs are not compatible so you would have to remove the BB off the complete kilo and get the appropriate bb (103mm) for the RDs you already have. Question is are you willing to go through the trouble of swapping if both cranksets are equal in quality?? That's up to you and that's what everyone is here telling you that you need to make that decision yourself.
how about this for a more specific question:
can anyone that has had experience with both cranksets on a kilo say whether one produces a better chainline than another (if there's any difference, of course)?