What do you think of double wave keys? I got one of these but don't know how hard it is to pick or cut.



i

I have a lockpick set

I have a Guard Dog U-Lock that came with that Jenson cable (or one that looks indentical, but says Guard Dog on it), I like it quite a bit. But it has some pros and cons.

First, it's great because it's strong. Secondly, it's large enough that when me and my girlfriend ride together, we can lock both our bikes with the one u-lock.

cons

It's heavy, secondly, it's large enough for two bikes to be Ulocked to a bike-rack. This seems like it gives too much leverage for a potential bike thief.


I would think that the smaller u-locks would be best to get rid of the added leverage.

The cable I wrap around the tires and through the rear fork then loop the ends on the u-lock. This keeps the Wheels locked with the bike, however I assume you recommend the pad lock for the cable so that there is a second lock the thief would have to break?

I would think that if they have the tools to brake the u-lock, they'd have a tool to brake the cable that you're using as well, which would seem to me that the pad-locks are a bit excessive.

I would assume that the more compact u-locks, with a decent cable to put through the wheels, would be plenty to deter 90% of the bike thieves out there.

That's a bit overkill.... especially for a no3 (the traditional locker lock rofl) is so simple lockpicks arent even required.... just a aluminum beverage can; its simple if you think about it or just examine the locking mechanism of one.

"Sidewinder" (your example) keys utilize a tumbler system in the cylinder that is quite difficult to pick or manipulate open. The keys require a very specific machine that, usually, only locksmiths will have to duplicate them. I cannot comment on how robust the cylinder itself is to resist drill attacks, or the quality of the chain or cable underneath that sheath.

Where did you get the ball bearings? I have the allen wrench 5mm size and was wondering what size bearing to use so I don't have to try everything. I like this idea and I am aware that this is an older post..Thanks..Cheers

I have found recently that solder works just as well, looks nicer and is easier to remove (with solder wicking) if you want to switch out/adjust parts.

Soldering irons cost about $10 at a hardware store. Solder and solder wicking is a few bucks.

With a steady hand, simply heat some solder and drip in into the allen bolt heads, let cool.
To remove, heat the solder and soak it up with the wicking.

Word.
~D

Great thread, I got alot of valuable info from here and a lot of non-sense.

Thanks..Guess I'll try the solder route....No matter what kind of lock you have or how big it is, nothing can stand up to a "fire wrench", that will open anything and very quickly. Most of the bikes around here are stolen by the homeless who usually don't know how to pick locks or have the proper tools but locks won't keep the pros out..Cheers

yeah but how much weight will those ball bearings/solder add?

Try these ...

https://cgi.ebay.com/Bolt-on-Skewers-...item4151a43698

I went with these for my Trek commuter.. https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp I got both wheels, seat post and the head. These are expensive but are a good quality and worth the money for what they do..Cheers

Thanks for the link! Totally been looking for something similar to those security lugnuts.

Probably like 10 or 20 lbs. Def not worth it for the added security. Heard it also alters yr geometry.

Don't even get me started on the aero disadvantages.

I park my bike next to my pitbull. You want my bike? Roxy says no.

The aero disadvantages--man I hate those!

lol. but seriously thanks to the op and everyone else for valuable insight. preesh

when i was a kid i used to be a pretty heavy bike thief, its kind of what got me into riding bikes. I don't do that anymore because its pretty ****ty (in my defense, it was usually privileged white college kids with a benz in their driveway, never stole from bikers.)

If your bike is in a dark unpopulated area, and its a pricey whip, someones going to get it eventually, bolt cutters, hammers, picks, doesn't matter.

keep your friends close, and you bike closer.

**** the enemies hahahah!

Very Weak sauce ... Karma is a B1tch ...

Stealing is wrong, regardless of whom you stole from.

Don't steal bikes, bro.

Not much of a defense..

Hey guys,

first time poster here I just wanted some clarification on certain parts of this thread and Sheldon Brown's article on lock strategy. I just recently bought a bike to use to commute to school and back, and I was wondering if anybody could post a VIDEO demonstration of the proper technique to safely lock your bike up. This would include (as I can garner from this thread)

- looping one end of the cable through your front and back wheels, around the frame, and around whatever you are locking to.

In Sheldon Brown's lock strategy he suggests using a cable with a built-in lock. Is there a relatively cheap (>$50) cable with built-in lock that is effective? I'll search for it myself if I don't get any replies but I thought I would ask those more experienced first.

- Then use one or more kryptonite U locks (the best you can afford) to lock the frame and/or wheels in addition to the above lock. I'm planning on getting the Kryptonite New York Standard. (https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Sta...3087034&sr=1-3) however as the difference in price is negligible between the New York Standard and Fahgettaaboutit, which one is better?

(https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fah...5105619&sr=1-3) For reference

Thanks and hope to hear back!



- If you have a quick-release seatpost bolt, replace it with an Allen head bolt, and stop worrying about having your saddle stolen.

Can I find an Allen head bolt at a bicycle shop? Or do I have to go to a hardware store of some sort? Also, is the saddle the only part of your bike that has a quick-release bolt? If not, what are the other parts?

lock the seatstays too. i have abandoned the classic sheldon method.