Quill to threadless adapter: Better or worse?
#1
Quill to threadless adapter: Better or worse?
I got a good deal on a bullhorn bar to replace my flop and chop bar. I wanted to get a new stem too but I'm not a big fan of threaded/quill. I decided to try a quill to threadless adapter since replacing the headset and fork too would be too expensive. You can see the results below. In the second set, the adapter is pushed as far down as it would go but the skinny part still shows. I tried using headset spacers to cover it up in the third set. I'm just curious about what you guys think. I think it looks passable so I'll probably be keeping it for a while. I know it's not ideal but I always still have the option of either going full threadless or just getting a really nice quill stem.
Before (click to enlarge):
After installing the adapter, it is as far down as it will go (click to enlarge):

After installing headset spacers to attempt to hide the awkward skinny section (click to enlarge):
Before (click to enlarge):
After installing the adapter, it is as far down as it will go (click to enlarge):

After installing headset spacers to attempt to hide the awkward skinny section (click to enlarge):
#2
I've always preferred quill stems. The threadless nonsense was another example of trying to fix something that wasn't broken. Quill stems are simple, with only 2 bolts, they are easy to adjust (without adding/removing spacers), and they look much better.
#3
The threadless stem is great.
- You get 2 stem angles for the price of one.
- No scratching your bars to thread them through.
- Ability to use non-uniform shaped bars.
- For track use: Easy changes from drop bars to TT bars. Otherwise you have to have a seperate bar+stem combo.
It is significantly advanced technology. So much so that only "old school" bikes use them.
Threaded to threadless adaptors look terrible and add points of failure to your bike.
#4
A little North of Hell
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,892
Likes: 4
I'm just curious about what you guys think.
https://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?ID=BPC110052
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
From: Rohnert Park, CA
Bikes: Pake track, Soma DoubleCross, LeMond Etape, Maruishi RoadAce 303
It looks better with the spacers.
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
EDIT: I should probably know how to spell Thomson, especially since I own one of their stems and work at a bike shop.
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
EDIT: I should probably know how to spell Thomson, especially since I own one of their stems and work at a bike shop.
Last edited by darksiderising; 03-16-09 at 01:09 AM.
#6
It looks better with the spacers.
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
#8
It looks better with the spacers.
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
EDIT: I should probably know how to spell Thomson, especially since I own one of their stems and work at a bike shop.
That said, I don't know why you bought a Thompson stem when you won't be experiencing any of the performance benefits. Your current setup is heavier and flexes more than the stock stem, I am guessing. Also, if you didn't want to shell out the money for a proper conversion to threadless, why did you go all out and get a Thompson stem?
EDIT: I should probably know how to spell Thomson, especially since I own one of their stems and work at a bike shop.
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#10
Rumblefish

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Bikes: 1973 Crescent Pepita Single Speed,1978 Raleigh Competition G.S.,1976 Raleigh Super Course MKII,1970's Motobecane Super Touring Fixed Gear, 1980's Denti Road Tech Five,Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo,1973 Atala Giro,Cheap MTB Tandem,Schwinn World Sport
A threaded to threadless adapter has no more failure points than a threaded or threadless set up. I had no idea so many metallurgists posted on BF though. BTW the reason you can't get your adapter flush is because of the butting in your steerer tube, I had the same issue when installing one on a smaller frame. You don't want the wedge wedged into this butting, seat the stem in as far as it easily goes, the raise it up a few millimeters and tighten it.
#11
A threaded to threadless adapter has no more failure points than a threaded or threadless set up. I had no idea so many metallurgists posted on BF though. BTW the reason you can't get your adapter flush is because of the butting in your steerer tube, I had the same issue when installing one on a smaller frame. You don't want the wedge wedged into this butting, seat the stem in as far as it easily goes, the raise it up a few millimeters and tighten it.
1: Vertical Stem Bolt
2: That thingy at the bottom of the stem
3: Headset bolt to fork
4: Stem face bolt(s)
Count of Points of Failure with a Threadless Fork:
1: Horizontal Stem Bolts
2: Vertical star nut bolt
3: Stem face bolts
Count of Points of Failure with a Threaded Fork with a threadless adaptor:
1: Vertical Stem Bolt in the adaptor
2: That thingy at the bottom of the stem adaptor
3: Headset bolt to fork
4: Horizontal stem bolts
5: Stem face bolts
When last I checked, 5 is greater than 3 and 4.
#13
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Do you mean the treaded to threadless adaptor?
The threadless stem is great.
- You get 2 stem angles for the price of one.
- No scratching your bars to thread them through.
- Ability to use non-uniform shaped bars.
- For track use: Easy changes from drop bars to TT bars. Otherwise you have to have a seperate bar+stem combo.
The threadless stem is great.
- You get 2 stem angles for the price of one.
- No scratching your bars to thread them through.
- Ability to use non-uniform shaped bars.
- For track use: Easy changes from drop bars to TT bars. Otherwise you have to have a seperate bar+stem combo.
OP: The adapter is fine. Go ride your ****ing bike already.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: NYC
Bikes: 2000 Raleigh M50. 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour. 2008 Cannondale Synapse 6.
If you're going to talk about nonsense technology, start with ceramic bearings.
#15





I figured I'd make a different thread to get fresh responses.
