Problem with head tube. Is there a fix?
03-28-09 | 06:46 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 65
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From: San Diego
Problem with head tube. Is there a fix?
I just took a frame I'm restoring into a local shop to have the headset pressed on. The mechanic pushed the cups in with his fingers and said that's really bad. He said the head tube was too loose by about .2 mm. He said over time the head tube gets a little wider and there is no fix.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? I've spent the last several weeks painting it and I've already bought all the other parts i need for this bike (wheels, crank, handle bars, etc, etc).
The mechanic said it's not safe to ride. Why not? I can see it being annoying because of the play/knocking in the head tube, but how would it fail?
I'm pretty bummed about this right now...
Is there anything I can do to fix this? I've spent the last several weeks painting it and I've already bought all the other parts i need for this bike (wheels, crank, handle bars, etc, etc).
The mechanic said it's not safe to ride. Why not? I can see it being annoying because of the play/knocking in the head tube, but how would it fail?
I'm pretty bummed about this right now...
03-28-09 | 07:50 PM
#2
six too eight
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, OH
even if it's rattling, there's not any "major" safety hazards. Sometimes a local shop would rather sell you a new bike than fix up your old one (not all shops). My recommendation is to use some aluminum cans as shims. However, a can isn't a permanent fix. In all reality you do need to replace the frame.
03-28-09 | 08:07 PM
#3
cab horn
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 31
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Shim it, you'll be fine. The other problem you might run into is that you may not be able to get the headset adjusted properly. In which case you might want to look for a new frame.
03-28-09 | 08:10 PM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 448
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From: NYC
Bikes: 2000 Raleigh M50. 2006 Raleigh Rush Hour. 2008 Cannondale Synapse 6.
even if it's rattling, there's not any "major" safety hazards. Sometimes a local shop would rather sell you a new bike than fix up your old one (not all shops). My recommendation is to use some aluminum cans as shims. However, a can isn't a permanent fix. In all reality you do need to replace the frame.
03-28-09 | 08:11 PM
#5
partly metal, partly real
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,597
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia.
Bikes: Hummer H2
^
my friend had a similar issue. shimmed it for about 1k miles while he looked for a good deal, never had an issue.
it was one of those "used to belong to a racer" njs frames, but i guess it saw one too many headset swaps.
03-28-09 | 08:11 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 206
Likes: 1
From: Fort Worth, TX
What headset are you using?...Are you using a JIS standard headset?
assuming you have a 1" headtube, there are two headset standards.. JIS and standard 1"...
JIS has 30mm cups while standard 1" headsets have 30.2mm cups
there is a good chance there is nothing wrong with the frame at all..It might be you are using the wrong headset
a lot of Tange headsets are JIS...
assuming you have a 1" headtube, there are two headset standards.. JIS and standard 1"...
JIS has 30mm cups while standard 1" headsets have 30.2mm cups
there is a good chance there is nothing wrong with the frame at all..It might be you are using the wrong headset
a lot of Tange headsets are JIS...
Last edited by Dave Hickey; 03-28-09 at 08:26 PM.
03-28-09 | 09:54 PM
#8
No plan.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: PA
Super surprised to see Operator recommend a hack. But if you think about it, the fork and stem assembly (threadless or threaded) will just be pushing on it all the time. You might have better luck gluing or JB welding the pop can to the headset and then trying to press that in.
03-28-09 | 10:13 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 65
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From: San Diego
You guys are awesome, thanks! I'm going to look into a couple of things you all mentioned and see what I can do.
It is an Origin 8 headset. It says Standard 1" on the box, and the guy at the shop said the head tube measured 30.4mm so those numbers all add up. So I think I have the right headset, but I'll double check anyways. If i do have the right one, I'll probably try the aluminum can shim.
So what is the safety concern here? Speed wobbles? I don't understand how this would "fail" if it did.
This is a last resort, because it will cost me more $$, but a very good option. Thanks!
What headset are you using?...Are you using a JIS standard headset? assuming you have a 1" headtube, there are two headset standards.. JIS and standard 1"... JIS has 30mm cups while standard 1" headsets have 30.2mm cups. there is a good chance there is nothing wrong with the frame at all..It might be you are using the wrong headset. a lot of Tange headsets are JIS...
This is a last resort, because it will cost me more $$, but a very good option. Thanks!
03-29-09 | 04:30 PM
#15
Gone Tarcking. Back Later
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Blacksburg, VA
Bikes: Iron Horse Warrior Team (tricked to high heaven), Jamis Coda Sport (frame and fork, built into CX commuter), Gary Fisher Opie Dirt Jumper,SE Lager tarck bike
You need to get rid of play ASAP in the headtube. Over time, it will ovalize faster and faster. And then you're out a frame. I can't suggest any methods though. All of the headtubes with play that I've worked on were totalled by the time they took them into the shop.
